Since it's going to just be a signal wire, wouldn't 22-20 gauge work?
Or, would it be better to go with 18 gauge just because it's thicker?
Since it's going to just be a signal wire, wouldn't 22-20 gauge work?
Or, would it be better to go with 18 gauge just because it's thicker?
I don't think it really matters... Like you said it's only a signal wire. I used an 18 gauge terminal and wire on my S-10 because that's what I had available....
In the attached wiring diagram....
Where do I run the grey
wire from the two relays
to connect with the
"Sending Unit"?
Is the Sending Unit referred
to here...is that the Coolant
temperature sensor?
OR, is each line going to
connect to the PCM (signal
wire) and is that going to
serve as the "Sending Unit"?
Just want to make sure I'm
wiring all this up correctly
Last edited by Rockrz; 01-02-2010 at 11:34 AM.
Haven't heard from anyone on the batt disconnect question, but I have read other posts that recommend removing the neg batt when replacing the PCM.
ROCKRZ, I am not an expert on the S10, but I am an electornics expert on several levels and the diagram you show is a generic drawing using a mechanical connection to a thermal switch. The more elegant way is what was referred to earlier in the thread where the PCM senses the temp from existing onboard sensors and then outputs the signal to your relays. Hope that is where you wanted to go with this.
Now for the dummy question. Assuming that I need some software to activate pins 33 and 42 on the PCM, where can I find someone to program the outputs on pins 42 and 33? If I have to drop $400 to make my own changes I will probably opt for a descrete controler for $150 instead.
Yes, according to the diagram each relay has a signal wire that appearsOriginally Posted by Cumulus102
to be going to a "sending unit"
The plan I have is to take those two signal wires that activates each fan
and run them to pins 33 and 42 on the PCM since the computer already
know engine temp and this can be controlled with HP Tuners software.
I was just asking about this to make sure my plans are correct
What kind of fan are you going to run? I have been looking at the LS1 fan because I have seen a few positive recommendations, but I am open to suggestion.
Back to the programming issue. Did you say that pins 42 and 33 are already programmed or need programming? Where would I look to find someone who could do the programming, as I do not see the cost benefit to buying the software if it is going to cost me $400?
One more thought, do you know if there is an output for the AC "on" condition?
I'm planning on installing the Spal 11 inch Automotive Dual Electric Fan Shroud Assembly as they are a superior product and I've been told they make many of the OE fans that come on some vehicles from the factory
There is no sending unit! The PCM provides a negative signal for fan operation... Wire in your relay/relay's for negative trigger... The 2 grey wires in your diagram would go to pin#42... or if you have Dual electric fans and want to wire them up to turn on different temperature settings, wire 1 fan to pin#42 and second fan to pin#33...
Last edited by VORTECMAX; 01-04-2010 at 02:53 PM.
Yep, that's what I was saying I had planned on doing.
I just wanted to double check my understanding
which gets kinda sketchy sometimes (dropped on head as baby)
Alrighty, Cool!...
I do appreciate all you guys replying as I now finally
have all the info needed to get this rigged up right.
Anyone,
Forgive me for being "green" at this, but I am still lacking two peices of info to ove forward with my fan install:
- is the S10 PCM already programmed to operate efans or does it require someone to set it up in software?
- does the PCM also control AC fan operation? How is this accomplished?
"My other truck is a motor glider-someday"
It's my understanding that you have to use HP Tuners software to
activate the PCM's controlling of the fans by telling is what temp
you want the fans to come on at, and you also have to tell the
PCM to turn on the fan(s) anytime the AC is running.
If this isn't correct, maybe one of the resident tuners can
chime in and give us the scoop on these two issues
Thanks, that sounds like the drift I was getting. So how do I find someone in my area who can make these changes for me? Seems a bit spendy to purchase a whole system to make 2 or 3 entries.
Prolly oughta go to the general chat area
and post a request for someone in your area.
RZ,
Just finished my install and it actually works. I had one of the tuners in the area come by and set up the outputs (42) & (33) a month ago or so and it has taken me the rest of this time to get all the pieces together and decide how to best install and finish this. I still need to install better splices and one connector for the PCM connection to the fan. BTW, the pins can be a real bugger to insert, especially if you do not use the same diameter wire and insullation. Wish I had checked that first. Any way you do it you are going to have to disassemble the connectors. Next time I think I might try teflon wire because it is stiffer.
I finished last night about 10PM and I was not entirely sure that it was fully functional. I took it to work today (12 min drive) and it never came on. Drove home tonight and parked in the garage for a few minutes, and bingo, the fan came on right at the top of my typical operating range, ran for about two mins and shut off. With both fans running at half speed, you could barely hear them, not to mention that lack of jet noise from the old fan.
Things to figure out ahead of time:
-best set temperatures for low and hi speed fan outputs.
-AC compressor PSI setting, default is 500 PSI. I would like to know what you find out on this. I left this a default and my fan does not turn on with the AC.
-where do I mount the relays, mine are on the back of the fan assy now. The relays that "eat pez" sugested matched that LS 1 diagram perfectly with numbers and pinouts.
- let me know what you come up with on parameters.
I had to nip and tuck a little on the LS 1 fan assy to drop it in, but it looks like it grew there now. If you want any pics let me know. I found an outstanding place to get factory power from at the fuse box. The stud at the rear of my fuse box was unused and had a prewired fuse socket that neatly
accepted a Maxi 40 amp fuse. The ten amp fuse is not so cool, but they do make a neat little plug in fuse socket that will accept the fuse that you displace and one additional for the relays. Make sure you check real close for a "Hot" fuse socket, I "assumed" that certain fuses would be hot and boy was I surprised when nothing worked right. Also I need to figure out how to get out "cleanly" from the fuse box with my 10 amp fuse, as the box is almost hermetically sealed when closed.
Lastly, the old fan removal! Some have the good fortune of having it come right off, not so for me. Easy way-take a piece of 3/4 conduit and flatten the end for about 4" and drill a 3/8" hole in the end. Remove one pulley bolt on your left side as you face the fan. Bolt the "tool" on and let it rest against the next (clock-wise)bolt head. Now you can break loose the 1 3/8" nut that holds the fan. That sucker is heavy. My truck sounds and runs like an electric vehicle without it.
Ok, this whole thing took me a lot of planning hours and about 3 days of shopping, fabricating and installing. I just saved you about 1/2 a day of pissin and moaning so get started.
Tom.
Hey, Tom
Glad to hear that you got everything wired up and working. Let me know if you need any more changes made.
Doug
ok so i get everything, but how did you get the fans to come on at half the speed? thanks
That was the cool part. Chevy uses two inputs and three relays to run the two fans in series in low and in parallel in high. 3 amps in low and about 13 in high. I will see if I can post the LS1 wiring diagram here.
Couldn't post the diagram, but here are the links to the website. I had never read the entire thread, but now I see that there is some good discussion in there about tuning the PCM. It has answered some of my questions.
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3...ingfansbu6.gif
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...gram-here.html
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