My 05 Cobalt SS/SC Tune

[rrutter81]

Been massaging in some new timing last couple of days since i was getting some KR from hell. Figured id post a log and my tune for some comments. Generally i wouldnt post a tune since it took some time to get it right but I would like any veterans to give me tips if at all possible.

Thanks!

Oh and the couple KRs during WOT from the log i already subtracted on to the tune ive attached.


2005 Cobalt SS/SC
3.0 pulley
42s

[dont_blink]

You shouldn't have any knock at all with the stock timing tables with just a 3" pulley. You can even leave the PE timing in place. You should be able to run easily 20 degrees by the top end with no knock even thinking about creeping up.

[rrutter81]

eh.....

k that is misinfo.

My WB is spot on, sometimes a lil richer.

ok just checked my stock stage 2 (rich as hell) logs and i had some KR in the same areas.
Just incase my balt was a fluke i downloaded a few Balt logs from here and they mostly show 18 degrees before KR. Also ecotec forums are claiming anywhere from 17-19 degrees before KR. Mine is hitting 20-21.

If i was running methanol or some other cooling mods i could see running 21 across the board.

Just spoke with 3 other balt tuners on another site. They advance theirs to 19-20. So it NOT unusual to get KR after 20.

Any other balt members want to chime in?

[dont_blink]

eh.....

k that is misinfo.

My WB is spot on, sometimes a lil richer.

ok just checked my stock stage 2 (rich as hell) logs and i had some KR in the same areas.
Just incase my balt was a fluke i downloaded a few Balt logs from here and they mostly show 18 degrees before KR. Also ecotec forums are claiming anywhere from 17-19 degrees before KR. Mine is hitting 20-21.

If i was running methanol or some other cooling mods i could see running 21 across the board.

Just spoke with 3 other balt tuners on another site. They advance theirs to 19-20. So it NOT unusual to get KR after 20.

Any other balt members want to chime in?

I'm not a 'balt member, I'm an LSJ tuner. Done dozens of them, could send you a flash right now that would make more power across the board than you will see doing it yourself on your specific vehicle. Just letting you know what it should be doing. Hell an M62 supercharged 2.2 Ecotec with a 3.0 pulley can run 20 degrees of timing all day long on it's higher compression ratio with no knock. What spark plugs are you running? What octane do you use and from what gas station does it come? Is your intercooler pump still functioning properly? Also, when you say your wideband is spot on, some time a little richer, what does that mean? You know running too rich can also cause knock correct?

[rrutter81]

I'm not a 'balt member, I'm an LSJ tuner. Done dozens of them, could send you a flash right now that would make more power across the board than you will see doing it yourself on your specific vehicle. Just letting you know what it should be doing. Hell an M62 supercharged 2.2 Ecotec with a 3.0 pulley can run 20 degrees of timing all day long on it's higher compression ratio with no knock. What spark plugs are you running? What octane do you use and from what gas station does it come? Is your intercooler pump still functioning properly? Also, when you say your wideband is spot on, some time a little richer, what does that mean? You know running too rich can also cause knock correct?

I went back to stock plugs since it was idling like crap with the irridium 1 step colder although i am considering coppers. The irridiums when i pulled them out were pretty carbon coated possibly due to my narrowband failure earlier. im piggybacking my wb emulated narrowband on to the sensor now.

Yes the pump works just fine, i know this for a fact since i keep an eye on it. I also have a cobra H/E.

Gas is always 93 + octane booster every fillup.

I meant the richer part being that it will go to 11.0 instead of 11.5. Not super rich spikes.

As far as fixing my power band. That is why I posted on here to hopefully pick some senior tuner's heads on what else can be done. If you want to send me a tune that would be fine, but I would like to know the reasoning behind your "fixes". I actually enjoy learning more about things i havent seen.

Thanks for all your time and input.

-Russ

[dont_blink]

Get the BS Iridiums out of there and run an NGK BKR7E. It's the best plug you will ever use for that car. Gap it at about .042-.045 for best results on that pulley. You may be seeing knock because the stock Iridiums are getting too hot and causing a dwelling point.

And there is no such thing as piggybacking a WB from an NB. NB sensors are only accurate at around soichiometric. You will not get true readings from it no matter how you try to modify it. Even putting a WB after your cat in the secondary O2 location is going to be significantly more accurate than that. 11.0:1 is still pretty rich for these cars. Consider that GM commands 10.8 in their tunes...

Also, if you want a more responsive car with more low end power, check your ETC TPS Max table in general torque management. You'll see what I'm talking about.

[rrutter81]

I have platinums in there right now, the irridiums were taken out after 5,000 miles.

I am piggybacking my WB to my narrowband because it has an emulated Narrowband wire. The WB wire goes to my gauge.

Innovate LC1.

I bought the NGK BKR7E and will try those since the BKR7EIX's ran like total garbage.

On average my AFR is 11.9 teetering on 12 but goes as low as 11.0 when it gets heat soaked.

As far as ETC TPS Max table, are you suggesting i smooth out such a "rough" ramp up on the ETC side?
(smoothing didnt do anything noticeable and neither did upping the limits to 100% 3/4 up the chart)

It seems you dont get the 100% torque unless you floor it and there is only a 1 row difference between 30% and 100%. I also want to be careful with torque settings since I dont want to be like alot of other LSJ guys and pop a hole in their f-35.

Thanks again

k here it is with the new plugs and stock timing map. Still got KR but it did help alot with advancement. These plugs run really nice too. Shame chevy didnt use these as stockers.

[dont_blink]

Platinum plugs blow for performance situations. You won't put a hole in your tranny. Put the table to 100% in every cell. And your AFR shouldn't drop that much when it gets hot. To hell with COT, clear it out and turn it off. And also the 1-volt output doesn't have a high enough resolution for our stock PCMS. I'm surprised you aren't seeing a bank one slow response DTC yet. Those plugs run wayy better also.

[rrutter81]

smoothing it out gained alot of traction (ETC map), ill try 100% in all cells but i may back it off if i cant launch correctly since i do take it to the track a bit.

Ive backed off some of the timing for now until i get my methanol kit later this week.

COT and Piston Protection are off as my tune shows from prior.

Thanks for the time and advice as i appreciate any and all no matter the experience level.

[lovemy12seccobalt]

wow i was running a ton more timing than that... and i use BKR8EIX iridium's so i cant really confirm its a plug issue...

[rrutter81]

wow i was running a ton more timing than that... and i use BKR8EIX iridium's so i cant really confirm its a plug issue...

Your running about .5 - 1 degree more than me from what i saw in your logs. My HO map still has the temp adders.

[06superchargedbalt]

How about the difference from stock? Big? I am doing the same thing as you!

[rrutter81]

How about the difference from stock? Big? I am doing the same thing as you!

Never tuned it stock, i do know that changing the plugs, upping the timing and then smoothing it out gave me another 3 car lengths in a race

[Jarod645]

I'm not a 'balt member, I'm an LSJ tuner. Done dozens of them, could send you a flash right now that would make more power across the board than you will see doing it yourself on your specific vehicle. Just letting you know what it should be doing. Hell an M62 supercharged 2.2 Ecotec with a 3.0 pulley can run 20 degrees of timing all day long on it's higher compression ratio with no knock. What spark plugs are you running? What octane do you use and from what gas station does it come? Is your intercooler pump still functioning properly? Also, when you say your wideband is spot on, some time a little richer, what does that mean? You know running too rich can also cause knock correct?

I have an 07 LSJ with a 2.9 and stock injectors right now. I have a 2.6 and 80lb injectors I?m putting in tomorrow and looking for a strong tune on 93 to be as fast as possible in the 1/8th. Do you know where I should look or if you could remote tune mine? I have a friend with an HP tuner and I also have very easy access to EFI live because that?s what I use on my duramaxes.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

I suggest starting with BIll Hahn's team at Hahn Racecraft. You could see if these other guys still tune the LSJ platform as well but i haven't been in contact with them for a very long time. Brian (Area47) and Steve (Psychosteve). If these people cant help then i would talk with ZZP.

I am sure you have done your research but keep these points in mind moving forward:
1) the 2.6 pulley is known for generating significant post blower heat. For drag racing, at a minimum, ice the blower down between runs. If you can, run a dual pass plate with an ice box. I know that's not an option for the street driven cars, but keeping that thing cool helps a lot.
2) If those 80 lb injectors are ebay specials, i suggest ditching them and getting a set from a reputable source like Fuel Injector Clinic, Injector Dynamics, or the split spray units from Fuel Injector Connection.
3) Make sure you upgraded your fuel system to support the 80 lb units. The OEM non-return rail system will cause a lean burn in cylinder 4. You should be upgrading to a flow through return fuel system with 1:1 regulator and high flow rate pump. Due to boost causing a pressure increase in this type of system, your pump should be capable of flowing at least 250 lph @60 psi. A DW350 is typically capable of around 310-320 LPH at this range with the correct plumbing. AEM 340 E85 is also capable of this range for example. The fuel tables are a little weird in the LSJ. Switching to the return style system greatly simplifies the tables in the ecu. Makes it easier on your tuner and could save you some dyno time.

[smcstevesmc]

The 2.6 definitely generates a ton of heat, I am running a 2.8 and have put my 2.6 on the shelf, (and I have meth injection.)