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Thread: '06 SS/SC 2.0 VE tuning

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by dont_blink View Post
    What size pulley? Just the regular GM stage 2 one?
    The pulley is a ZZP 2.8
    Last edited by LS1408; 11-20-2008 at 09:00 AM.

  2. #22
    This things setting a Crank sensor code, how will that effect the running of the car?

  3. #23
    Advanced Tuner dont_blink's Avatar
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    A LOT. It's going to affect timing in every table as well as fuel injector timing. What did you do to the crank? You didn't swap PCMs or anything did you?
    RSG Offroad
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  4. #24
    It's got new Diamond pistons on the stock rods and crank. I ordered a new crank sensor today. I did the Case Learn with HP and the light went out for just a few mins. and the car seemed to run better.

  5. #25
    Advanced Tuner dont_blink's Avatar
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    Soo...when you put the crank and rods back in did you check the clearances? Or did you just slap it all back together, tighten the stuff down, and call it a day?
    RSG Offroad
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  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by dont_blink View Post
    Soo...when you put the crank and rods back in did you check the clearances? Or did you just slap it all back together, tighten the stuff down, and call it a day?
    I didn't do the work on the engine it was done at another shop.

  7. #27
    Advanced Tuner dont_blink's Avatar
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    Okay. Did they install new bearings or use factory ones? If the correlation between your cam sensor and crank sensor is off then that is going to cause issues. Did they use adjustable cams gears? Were the cams you put in regrinds, blank grinds?

    If they installed modified cams and didn't use adjustable gears, I would be willing to bet that is at the core of all your issues here.
    RSG Offroad
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  8. #28
    The bearings are the stock bearings reused, the cam gears are adjustible, and the cams are blanks that cam from Bates Engineering. I'm not sure if they degreed them or not and the one's that did it went out of buisness.

    I ordered a new crank sensor from GM to see if that solves this.

  9. #29
    Advanced Tuner dont_blink's Avatar
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    A new crank sensor is not your fix. If they ground the cams themselves and left the cam gears at 0 or something, this is surely part of your problem.
    RSG Offroad
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  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by dont_blink View Post
    A new crank sensor is not your fix. If they ground the cams themselves and left the cam gears at 0 or something, this is surely part of your problem.
    Were can I find info on this, I've never worked on one of these I4's. Are Bates cam's not good cam's or is it you just have to degree them different? Hell I don't even know if the other shop degreed them or not.

  11. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by dont_blink View Post
    A new crank sensor is not your fix. If they ground the cams themselves and left the cam gears at 0 or something, this is surely part of your problem.
    Would you mind giving me call?

  12. #32
    Advanced Tuner dont_blink's Avatar
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    Every cam regrind should be degreed properly, which usually calls for the use of an adjustable cam gear on each cam. If the cam and crank sensors are not reading in sync you will get all kinds of codes and rough running issues. Pull off your valve cover and check, it's pretty easy. I believe they even have a run through of how to degree cams in the Ecotec in the Ecotec build book. It's worth buying to read or finding it posted up online somewhere.
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  13. #33
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  14. #34
    Advanced Tuner omega_5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dont_blink View Post
    Set your dynamic airflow to 1500/1400 respectively and call it a day. This doesn't disable the MAF, it makes the car ignore the VE table above 1500rpm. Just listen to the guys who have tuned 100s of LSJs please.

    *shutter*
    You must like leaning out on shifts then....

    Doing it right means spending the time to dial in both the VE and the MAF.
    Tyler

  15. #35
    I have the book, anyone degreed the cams in the car? Is there a right up on it anywhere?

  16. #36
    Advanced Tuner omega_5's Avatar
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    The LSJ build books says exactly how to degree the cams.
    Tyler

  17. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by omega_5 View Post
    The LSJ build books says exactly how to degree the cams.
    Yeah, they do it on a engine stand. I wasn't sure if there was room, but now that I have it apart it looks like there will be just enough. I did find that the shop that did the install didn't have the colored links lined up on eighter chain.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1408 View Post
    Yeah, they do it on a engine stand. I wasn't sure if there was room, but now that I have it apart it looks like there will be just enough. I did find that the shop that did the install didn't have the colored links lined up on eighter chain.


    They only line up maybe every 8 revolutions of the engine.

    They start out lined up till you turn the motor over once.

    Ted.

  19. #39
    Advanced Tuner dont_blink's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by omega_5 View Post
    *shutter*
    You must like leaning out on shifts then....

    Doing it right means spending the time to dial in both the VE and the MAF.
    Bite me.
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  20. #40
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LS1408 View Post
    The pulley is a ZZP 2.8
    you have 42#'s and a 2.8....u should really be on the 60's
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