I can't get a wiring diagram small enough to post here, but I can tell you there's nothing in the starter circuit to interrupt it via theft deterrent. It has the ignition switch, P/N safety switch, and a starter relay. The relay's coil is grounded on one side, energized on the other from the key through the P/N switch, and the switch is powered by Ign A fuse in the underhood fuse/relay panel. That's were the starter relay is too.
If you gimme an email address, I can email it to you, in .bmp.
Yeah, I'm more of an R&R kinda guy.
If it's not something obvious, I'm not much on chasing electrical issues.
Wouldn't there be some stored codes in the BCM that the dealer
could retrieve if it got to the point that I had to take it to them?
As far as regular codes I can read with my scanner,
there haven't been any.
If there were codes in the BCM, aren't those
stored for up to some many starts?
I have a 99 4.3l sonoma. I've been looking at buying hp tuner for a while. can it disable the vats in this year model. Some have said that 99 is a weird year for 99 zr2's.
I doubt that you can since it's a two part system and HP Tuners
can only talk to the ECM part of the system and not the BCM
part of the system also.
Probably, the dealer is about the only folks that will have
the ability to talk to the BCM part of the system and they
aren't going to be able to disable anything for you due to
the liability it would bring on them if your truck were
stolen and you decided to sue them over it.
Best thing to do is keep it operating properly
and just go with it.
I originally wanted to disable mine, but after studying
the system a little I think I'd rather keep it operating
since it makes it fairly hard for someone to steal
my truck
On the other hand...you could do what Tim Taylor
did on Home Improvement....RE-WIRE IT
I want the thing disabled. I'm sick of the thing so i want it disabled. I own a few s10's and hate the security. I've replaced some harnesses that were at up and the battery sets the system every time i leave town for a long time because a low battery will set the system hay wire. So i want it disabled.
I'm gonna spend th money on Hp tuners to play with my S10s and Fbodie in my garage so I'm gonna use everything in my disposal.
I'm not to worried about some one stealing my vehicles If i was they wouldn't be outside with the windows down and the keys in. That's one of th luxuriesof living in th middle of no where in the middle of the woods. Just iun case my wife is a good shot with the riot gun in the bedroom.
Unless you are going to wire in your own ignition,
you'd have to not only get HP Tuners, but also
the very expense (several thousand bucks) prog
GM dealers use to troubleshoot Body Control Modules
Somebody told the the name of this program
(can't remember at the moment) and it was
about $3,000+
So, maybe you can wire your own ignition
switch from the column to the starter simple
like they had vehicles back in the old days.
Maybe that wouldn't be too hard, I don't know.
Never looked into it
It's not that hard to rewire. I've chased alot of wires in cars for along time so. Thats no biggy. But I don't think you would need to to stop the no start condition. If the VCM is not going to disable fuel problem solved.
The body controller has no control over cranking and taking it's fuel disable capabilities away means it has no effect on the starting and running of the vehicle. It has no other way of disabling the vehicle.
Now if i can only get this by friday.
OK, so I relinked VATS using HP Tuners back on 4/26 and I've had 3Originally Posted by Rockrz
more incidents of having to wait about 10 to 15 minutes before being
able to start my truck. (won't even turn over, but it does have all power)
I did talk to one of the service writers at a local GM dealer and he said,
for what it's worth, that he's seen numerous vehicles that have had the
sensor in the key cylinder malfunction and need replacing. ('bout $500)
So, does anyone think it would be worth it to try the manual re-learn
procedure at this point?
OR, should I take it to the dealer and let them see if there are any
codes being stored in the BCM, and if there aren't go ahead and
replace the sensor in the key cylinder?
just cut the wires going to the pass lock sensor at the bcm, put a 2.2k ohm resister between the black and yellow wires, then do your 10 min re-learn
you will never have to worry about a bad passlock sensor or the wiring at the lock cylinder,, this is assuming that your bcm is good, i have done this on many cars that have bad passlock sensors and it works great
That's an option...so where are these BCMs usually located?
OK, so today I went down to the local GM dealer to pay them for diagnostic
time so they can trouble shoot, read BCM codes (there never has been any
ECM codes showing up on my scanner)
And...they said the starter was going out...and they'd be more than happy
to pop me a new starter on for $665.00 (includes $91 their diagnostic time)!
Obviously, I took care of this myself with a new, lifetime warranty starter
from Auto Zone for $169.00 (they seem to be pretty good, so what the hey)
If it's true that the starter was the problem, I'm thinking may be starter
solenoid was not functioning properly when it was hot (intermittently)
and would work again once it cooled down a little, or maybe it was the
starter motor itself, I dunno.
I do know that as I continue to drive the truck, I'll find out eventually
if this actually fixes my issue.
Does HP Tuners now have the abiilty to disable VATS III on a 2006 Pontiac GT?
If so, how?
According to what they told me when I was trying to disable VATS on mine...
You have to disable VATS in the ECM, and you have to disable VATS in
the BCM...so if you have that high dollar program that can talk to the BCM
(HP Tuners can only talk to the ECM), then you cannot fully disable VATS.
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