Dont thank me, BTF menioned this in another thread and it pretty much went un-noticed, I just brought some life to it againThanks BTF for the excellent tip!
Dont thank me, BTF menioned this in another thread and it pretty much went un-noticed, I just brought some life to it again
Now, would it matter if we put it in AFTER the solenoid? Say, in between the solenoid and the Wastegate Actuator?
Every diagram I've found of people using restrictor pills is always before the solenoid, no matter what platform of car. Be it for a real reason or just ease of installation I don't know.
And ya the hose closest to you is just a vent recirculator, otherwise the BCS would be releasing a small amount of metered air. I made that mistake when I hooked up my MBC a few months back doh.
Last edited by Gimpster; 09-21-2009 at 12:34 PM.
Hmmm, I wonder if thats why my MBC is giving me fits.
Either way I am going to give the 'restrictor pill' idea a shot.
I have tried it on almost every hose.....trust me its the one I pointed out LOL...The ONLY thanks I can get is thanks for finding every WRONG hose and posting a pic with the RIGHT one highlighted LOL!
Duly noted, thanks for the clarification.
I think this is the most productive thread I have read on here for a while, lol.
The way it works, if Im understanding this right anyway:
You are limiting the boost seen by the solenoid so it continues to clamp past the normal point until it sees the right amount of boost with the pill installed. You can change this point by varying the hole size in the pill, a smaller hole should net even higher boost! They sell assortment packs at Home Depot when I went, if you are ok with jacking up the car over and over again, you can try all diff size tips in the line to get the boost you like.
Last edited by BackyardTurbo_FTW; 09-21-2009 at 12:55 PM.
Same concept as a MBC, just the MBC bleeds the air off.
I agree, and thank everyone for input!
I hate how a lot of people play this motor so close to the chest. I realize we all like our secrets, but shit... the community as a whole can't proceed without some type of collaberation. Even if you don't come up with 'the idea' you can often help make it better through inovations and testing on your own.
Ok off my soapbox
Originally Posted by mkriebs
That will also work, assuming the boost controller is oriented properly and the stock boost solenoid is capped off.
Is that a really short hose? Where is the other end of it going? Could it be easier to get to?
2008 Cobalt SSTC S1
67 RS Camaro 406 ci 12 sec 1/4mi
87 Pachanga22 502ci 500hp
No, it seems to be the hardest of the 3 to get off. I had to remove the air inlet, the 3 hoses from the turbo, the connector to the solenoid and finally the solenoid off the car.
Is this on a Kappa?
I can't say for sure but I would have to say it is!
Booya! Be doing this tomorrow night!
I smells lots of clutches in the next week or so.
'12 Camaro T3 2SS/RS LS3 M6, SLP TVS 2300, Flex Fuel
I got the winter beater all fixed up, so bring the clutch job on.
Surprisingly... running 24-25 on my boost controller, it hasn't slipped yet.
It will unfortunately. To help, stay away from low rpm high load pulls. IE: 3K RPM in 4th then WOT, it WILL slip then!
Mine started with 4th but now will do it in 3rd occasionally! I run my car a LOT tho at the track.
On the dyno, we found that above 360wtq made it slip in either my car or Wanted's car. This is DEF making over 360wtq, prolly in the 380-390 range!
yup, I was slipping in 4th from 3k, car wanted more, it peaked at 365, but the clutch couldn't hold anymore. Here goes $1500 towards a clutch and install
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