The LNF Tuning Guide

[cobaltssoverbooster]

No, that's the ESC nanny that never sleeps, even when she says she is. Always one eye open ready to cut throttle.

I turned ESC off completely (or so she said) and could break them loose in third in the rain and every time she closed the throttle during my test. Off road of course.

i want to slit her throat so badddd!!!! my car drifts because of her dumb ass....no joke i lose the rear tires before the front on the track or a hard corner.

[Iam Broke]

i want to slit her throat so badddd!!!! my car drifts because of her dumb ass....no joke i lose the rear tires before the front on the track or a hard corner.

Sounds like you have a Powell XXX bar on there. lol

[cobaltssoverbooster]

a what-er? if thats some suspension part im completely stock i just custom aligned the front with a camber triangle and its perfect except for nanny no speed.

[Dr. Nopps]

i want to slit her throat so badddd!!!! my car drifts because of her dumb ass....no joke i lose the rear tires before the front on the track or a hard corner.

Most likely uses the wheel sensors info/signal to declare ESC. Although we don't have access to BCM functions they (wheel sensors) should still need the ABS module to think and talk to each other. Pull the main ABS module fuse and the car shouldn't be able to get stability readings and or make stability adjustments. I hate ABS anyway!!! Don't pay that little red light any mind. Plug fuse back in once a year for Inspection Sticker. Wash, Rinse, Repeat.

[ttypecamaro]

Yesterday I was driving down a long spiril in a parking garage just after starting the car. Before I got to the bottom, the E-brake light came on (I checked the e-brake and it was not engaged at all), a chime sounded twice, the dash flashed "Check Brake Fluid", then flashed "Service ESC", then "Disabled ESC". I bet it was fully turned off then. I restarted the car and checked the brake fluid and everything was back to normal. Maybe you could trick the brake fluid level sensor to kill ESC completely.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

or hold the traction button to turn esc off completely

[jboogie67]

Anyone wanna give some tips on helping the throttle delay? I've been trying a bunch of things to all the ETC tables and nothing has made a bit of difference.

[silverbullet08]

We still do not have complete control over this. sometimes i notice it sometimes i dont. If you roll into the throttle i never see it.
Go to:
Torque mngmnt- General -Tip in limiting - load dampening - Set to Disable
Load dampening ETC limit - set all to 100
all your multiplyer tables for that set to 1.00

This is the only option we have there. You can get a little better response by raising your DAL table to get boost to come in with less pedal. But be careful with that one. You dont enter PE until about 70% throttle so its easy to see boost with no added fuel if go too high too soon. If you dont understand how that table works with other tables then i suggest you just dont mess with it.

[sunny]

Update, the tune in post 329 has netted an 8.42 @ 82 with a 1.85 60’, the DA was 1400’. Leaving at 2500 RPMs the car is much more consistent and I have made it to the quarterfinals or better every week. Since the tune I have moved up to 6th in pro class points standings at our local track beating many of the best racers. This is great considering I missed the first 2 points weeks.
I’m looking forward to some 8.2s when the weather cools down.

[jboogie67]

Is there a certain amount of timing you guys pull for a certain ambient temp change? I do most of my tuning at night and get my timing dialed in perfectly, then by the next afternoon I'm knocking everywhere. Anyone have some thoughts as a general rule when working the IAT/spark correction table? Say 10 degrees equals 1 degree of timing or whatever?

[cobaltssoverbooster]

ok you need to adjust your timing for the day prefferably the hottest time of day if possible. colder air will allow for more timing which can throw your timing off. the iat spark correction for the most part i leave alone or zero it out to disable it in the section im running.

[06cobaltss/sc]

Most tuning should be done when its warm out. If you push the car until it knocks, I would remove more then 1-2 degrees "just in case it gets hotter the next week". Personally speaking I would remove about 3-4 degrees so the car is safe. For example if you can run 21 degrees of timing on a 90 degree day, if you set the timing to 17-18 degrees you will have a little wiggle room for when it hits 105 outside.

Doing this will lose you a small amount of horse power, but if you are not at the track why the hell does it matter lol. Using this method during hot days will be great way to ensure that your car does not knock later on down the road.

Also another thing to note. Lets say your car knocks at 22 degrees of timing, dont run 21 degrees because gas can change very easily from pump to pump. For example there are a phillips 66 gas stations that my car will knock at 15 degrees of timing, at bp I can run 17 degrees.

The point to all of this being is you need to have a decent safety zone because temps are not the only thing that change and it's much better to have a slightly slower car that runs then a fast as hell car that might not run tomorrow morning

[jboogie67]

My issue is the hottest time of day also tends to be busy on the roads or I'm working. I'm confused why you guys wouldn't make better use of this table? It would make sense to me if I tune one night at 70* and pull maybe a .75* per 10 degrees added to IAT so you wouldn't have to run 15* timing at 60* ambient when 18* up top is perfectly safe at that temp? Don't mean to question you guys just trying to learn all I can.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

the table adjustments arent smooth but if you get rid of it then i have found by playing the timing table safe i get a repetitive smooth timing and my runs are all identical to eachother pull after pull. that table puts a variable of change into your power some people like the table i do not because without it i can know exactly what to expect everytime i run, where if i have it enabled, one day all the sudden my car aint running so great even though the correction was not necessarily needed. i live in florida right now my day starts at 68-70* and exceeds to a burning 98* avg with like 90% humidity. the heat index every day is usually around 115*. i run perfectly fine without that table.

[gmtech16450yz]

My issue is the hottest time of day also tends to be busy on the roads or I'm working. I'm confused why you guys wouldn't make better use of this table? It would make sense to me if I tune one night at 70* and pull maybe a .75* per 10 degrees added to IAT so you wouldn't have to run 15* timing at 60* ambient when 18* up top is perfectly safe at that temp? Don't mean to question you guys just trying to learn all I can.

The IAT timing tables are some of the most powerful tables in any tuning. USE THEM!!!!!!!!! Being able to control timing in relation to intake air temps and coolant temps is vital to a good tune.

Here's a good example... Years ago we had a Dodge motorhome. (we had it for 23 years and took over 150 trips in it btw!) Anyway, it had a built 360 in it, high compression and everything. If I had to set the ign timing to the lowest variable, which would be hot weather, pulling our trailer and driving at low altitude with not the best premium in it, the most I could run would have been 0*. (Yes, TDC!) Luckily, MSD made this handy little device that plugged into their MSD ign boxes, it was a 15* timing control. What that meant was in those hot, heavy load, low altitude conditions I could turn it back down to TDC, but on a cold day at high altitude, I would be able to run that thing at 15* all day long. (I also made my own knock sensor with a sensor and a bank of LED's. When it sensed knock, it would light up the first LED's that were yellow, lot's of knock and it would light up all the way to the red LED's. It worked pretty sweet!)

The moral of that story is without having that timing control, which was manual but highly dependent on intake air temps and density, I would have been loosing TONS of power and mpg's. 15*'s is a lot of power to loose on a built V8. These motors are no different, tune the motor in hot weather AND cold weather. See how much timing it likes in all situations and use the IAT tables to give it that. You don't have to tune for the lowest or worst situation, that's what the tables are for. FWIW, my IAT tables goes from -6* to +9* and my multiplier table goes from 0 to 1.5.

Oh and don't EVER be afraid to question, that's how we learn. I grew up in the '60's and '70's, we were told to ABSOLUTELY question authority!

[06cobaltss/sc]

so you wouldn't have to run 15* timing at 60* ambient when 18* up top is perfectly safe at that temp? Don't mean to question you guys just trying to learn all I can.

As others have said you can use the iat tables but the difference between 15 and 18 degrees of timing is not very much. I would personally rather have a safe fast 15degree reliable car, then one that could one day possibly knock on 18 degrees because of the X factor.

Once you have blown a motor or have seen them blown time and time again because some kid wanted to push it harder then it should have been pushed that day, or have seen what happens when an intercooler pump goes out and you have 250 degree iat2s while you are still on that 18 degree timing and you go for a pull and boom before you notice it. Once you have been through all of that crap, you will realize that safety and reliability are much more important then a few extra ponies.

[silverbullet08]

Oh and don't EVER be afraid to question, that's how we learn. I grew up in the '60's and '70's, we were told to ABSOLUTELY question authority!

Last time I questioned authority i ended up in the back of a police car....

[gmtech16450yz]

As others have said you can use the iat tables but the difference between 15 and 18 degrees of timing is not very much. I would personally rather have a safe fast 15degree reliable car, then one that could one day possibly knock on 18 degrees because of the X factor.

Once you have blown a motor or have seen them blown time and time again because some kid wanted to push it harder then it should have been pushed that day, or have seen what happens when an intercooler pump goes out and you have 250 degree iat2s while you are still on that 18 degree timing and you go for a pull and boom before you notice it. Once you have been through all of that crap, you will realize that safety and reliability are much more important then a few extra ponies.

I think the numbers he gave as an example are the thing you don't like, yeah, there's not a big difference between 15 and 18 as far as engine safety. If my intake temps go to 250*, my IAT tables are gonna automatically take away about 15*. What could be safer than that? Meth dies, temps go up, timing retards. Coolant overheats, coolant temp goes up, ECT table retards timing automatically. Fan fails, same. Boost too high, temps go up, timing retards. Sitting in traffic and everything heats up, then you punch it... without IAT control you'd be punching it away from that traffic with way too much timing for the temps. With IAT control, no problem, timing will be safe until temps go back down.

[jboogie67]

all good advice, thanks guys. I'll for sure keep it safe though.

[06cobaltss/sc]

gmtech1450yz - all very good points. Now I would like some evidence that it actually works 100% of the time. I can PROVE that the lsj ecu will "at times" NOT pull timing, specifically at the 140 degree iat2 mark at full boost.

I am not saying it happens often, but it has and CAN happen so that the ecu does not pull timing for whatever reason. I don't know why it doesn't, but I can post logs showing specifically what I am talking about. At 139 degrees the car had the same timing as 142 degrees where I stopped, and the ecu was supposed to pull 2 degrees at 140. Meh, who knows maybe it was a fluke, but I don't have to worry about timing on e85 anyways =P

Don't get me wrong though, I use the iat2 tables on my car after 140 degrees, although I think I am going to up it because I do see 140 degree iat2's on extremely hot days, but either way that's not the point. I was just trying to reiterate that having a safe engine is something that is very important and at times gets over looked for the "more power" mind frame.

I was simply playing devils advocate back and forth. Personally, as someone who tunes there own car I use both the ect timing tables and iat2 timing tables to a certain point. However I still recommend zeroing them out until you hit your "to hot" point. When you have variables at the lower end your car is not as consistent. What doesn't normally spin the tires, might suddenly spin them one day and you get a ticket =P.

Also going back to another point I had. Gas can change pretty quickly and where I live some stations have 91 and some have 93. There is a HUGE difference between the two octane ratings when it comes to timing amounts. I mean it's absolutely insane when you are "pushing the limits" how big a 2 octane difference can make lol. So all of the "safety" tables as I call them, won't help when you are having detonation from shitty gas. Whether it was because they only had 91 or because you got "bad 93" gas, which at one point or another we all probably have =P