Anybody have a good bolt on tune for a 2002-2003 ish Cobalt?

[Fuknmovin]

I am looking for a good start at a tune for my bug anybody got one they would share? I just would like to compare what you did to it to make it faster?

Thanks!

[dont_blink]

There is no such thing.

[Fuknmovin]

Sorry Cavalier...Its in a Baja Bug and I forgot the car....

[oldskool]

Well I don't know what engine you have, but my ecotec tune is attached. Not I'm running full bolt-ons and ford red top injectors (30lbs/hr).

On a stock engine there really isn't much you can do. If and only if you have a wideband, you can tune the VE tables, adjust the PE RPM delay, and set the PE commanded AFR. what is the "best" AFR to run at WOT is subjective. You can adjust the spark advance, but the only way to KNOW what gains you get from that are to head to a dyno.

Other than that, there is not much to do! Supposedly you can gain ~8whp or so with good tuning on an eco cav...

[Fuknmovin]

Cool, THANKS! I just wanted to see what and how a decent tune changes/looks
so I can get a head start on it. I will then try to mess with power mods like porting etc...Thanks again!

[dont_blink]

You might see 5hp/5ft.lbs. out of a bolt-on tune for that Ecotec. Get some porting going, cams, more rpm, and bore the thing out. Then have fun with her :-) It is very possible to make a rev happy 2.4L out of that engine. Giving you plenty of grunt with the top end to keep you rocking.

[Fuknmovin]

So I can just bolt up a 2.4 liter bottom end? If so, that's FN cool! I have heard of a 2.4 manifold swap, is it any good?

[dont_blink]

No. You can resleeve/bore your current block out, then with a custom 6" rod and 2.4L crank make yourself a nice rev happy, torquey motor. The stock 2.4 r/r is crap at like 1.47, this will take you closer to a 1.65 r/r so you aren't pushing pistons through the side of the bore at 9000 rpm.

[Fuknmovin]

Nice tip! Where is there a good site to find stuff like this on these engines?

[oldskool]

No. You can resleeve/bore your current block out, then with a custom 6" rod and 2.4L crank make yourself a nice rev happy, torquey motor. The stock 2.4 r/r is crap at like 1.47, this will take you closer to a 1.65 r/r so you aren't pushing pistons through the side of the bore at 9000 rpm.

By 2.4L crank are you referring to the LE5 or something custom made? The LE5 crank WILL NOT work with a cavalier PCM - the crank trigger wheel is totally different. If one is dead set on making it work, you would need to convert the entire ECU/wiring harness to an LSJ or LE5 pcm and deal with all the nightmares that ensue.

All in all that's a lot of work, time and money for someone with a stock car who is asking about tuning...

[Fuknmovin]

Well, I obviously need to start somewhere, I plan on doing things to this engine on a regular basis, I will be porting the head when I hit the off season and it starts to warm up too much to go out in the desert, that's when I will be doing the A-Arm front end and some engine stuff, I am just gathering up info right now on this particular engine and will start building soon. I will likely try porting and cams for the first go round. Also, I have heard about the LS1 TB swap, is this something worth while for a Head/cam engine? It would seem so as I am fairly confident I can get the head to 300cfm or more..I have a lot of experience porting heads professionally..

[dont_blink]

The only reason the crank is different is because there is a trigger wheel bolted to it. Take the trigger wheel off and it's the same 7x crank trigger that the Cavi uses ;-) I has Ecotec oil in my blood. No seriously, I probably do at this point.

[oldskool]

On a cavalier ecotec crank, the wheel is cast on. It's not a matter of changing the wheel, it's a matter of changing the whole bottom end and you have to change the whole ecu to an LE5 or preferably LSJ ecu, or standalone, but that defeats the purpose of using HPT.

Quick Edit: Let me just say if it was possible to have the LE5 bottom end mated to a L61 ported race head and have it run on the stock cavalier ecu, I would be all over it!!

[dont_blink]

No, you can unbolt the trigger wheel from the LE5 crank, just like the LSJ one. Underneath, cast into the crank, is the same trigger pattern the Cavalier uses.

[Fuknmovin]

COOL! I will remember that for sure! I am anxious to get this going now, I am sure I can get another 50 or so ponies at least NA, without spending too much $$ sounds good! Any other tips are appreciated, do you or anyone else have a dyno sheet for the LE5 intake swap on the 2.2?? I am curious about doing it first to gain a littl without spending too much but I don't want to loose any bottom end...

[oldskool]

No, you can unbolt the trigger wheel from the LE5 crank, just like the LSJ one. Underneath, cast into the crank, is the same trigger pattern the Cavalier uses.

Do you have pics or diagram blow ups to prove this?

The reason I have hard time believing it is becuase there is a guy on jbody.org running complete standalone because this bottom end swap was supposedly impossible because of the crank trigger. I'll refer him to this thread so it can finally be straighened out.

[DaFlyinSkwirl]

No, you can unbolt the trigger wheel from the LE5 crank, just like the LSJ one. Underneath, cast into the crank, is the same trigger pattern the Cavalier uses.

so what you're saying is that under the reluctor ring of both the LSJ and LE5 are the regular 6+1 reluctor rings?



this is the early model L61 ecotec engines 2002-2005 with the cast on reluctor ring. These are not removable, but you can clearly see the 6 spaced notches 60* apart on the ring, plus the extra notch thats 10* past the notch after TDC (70* from TDC.. reference signal)



thats the LSJ crank reluctor ring, the 60-2 pattern. So you're saying if one were to unbolt that ring (it has 3 bolts securing it to the crank) there is a 6+1 pattern underneath it? do you have proof of this in pictures?

the 60-2 ring does look like it would sandwich over the 6+1 ring if it were there, but looking at the casting marks underneath it doesn't seem that anything resembling a ring is underneath the one bolted on, just supports for the 60-2 ring.

just to clarify, I want to be wrong in this matter, but I need to see it to believe you.

and to reiterate, from what I see in this post you know what you're talking about and I REALLLLLLLY want to believe you lol but I need a picture to prove it.

please don't let me down.. beers on me when you toss a picture up showing it.

[oldskool]

::waiting for evidence:: not patiently, but waiting...

[Fuknmovin]

Now I really want to see for sure!

[oldskool]

I'm gonna have to call BS on this due to lack of proof...