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Thread: wot question

  1. #1

    wot question

    my stoich is 14.4. i read somewhere that i should aim inbetween 13.0 and 12.5 for my wot.

    does that sound accurate?

    also, when tuning for wot... should i get rid of all of the PE adder tables and aim for one afr?
    2001 3.8 v6 camaro, T5, ford 42lb green top injectors, grand national .63 a/r turbo. 8psi. stock motor, ngk tr6 plugs (one step colder) 91 octane.

    2001 4.3 zr2 s10. daily driver, 31" tires, 4x4, cat! and exhaust. looking for mpg.

  2. #2
    i'd like to add more to my question...

    from russ k MAF write up(WOT PORTION)

    it says to change the base afr to 13.0. i was thinkng you would leave the base at your stoich and just adjust your PE for what you want... since you will enter PE when you go WOT

    "Now change the PE Enable TPS back to stock (or were you what it as some models have the low rpm enable at 100%). Change the Base AFR vs. ECT to 13.0 at all temps for NA, or 11.5-11.75 for a boosted engine. Flash this new file, connect the scanner and check & reset the fuel trims. Bring the car to a dead stop, use the VCM controls to put the trans in 2nd gear. Now go wot till your max rpm desired. Then copy & paste the Maf AFR error % to the 7625 hz & higher part of the Maf table. For the freq. hz cells that the scanner skipped over, just average these cells. For the higher freq hz cells of the table that you didn't enter, just enter the error % from the highest airflow hz cell that you did enter. Once you get the AFR close, use paste special multiply by % - half."
    Last edited by thebeewantsboost; 03-26-2010 at 05:50 PM.
    2001 3.8 v6 camaro, T5, ford 42lb green top injectors, grand national .63 a/r turbo. 8psi. stock motor, ngk tr6 plugs (one step colder) 91 octane.

    2001 4.3 zr2 s10. daily driver, 31" tires, 4x4, cat! and exhaust. looking for mpg.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by thebeewantsboost View Post
    my stoich is 14.4. i read somewhere that i should aim inbetween 13.0 and 12.5 for my wot.
    does that sound accurate?

    also, when tuning for wot... should i get rid of all of the PE adder tables and aim for one afr?
    This is accurate for an NA car.

    No, you should not get rid of the PE adder tables and aim for one AFR...there is a time limit on some of those tables as you can enter into PE in the event of having extra load on the engine (alotta extra load depending on when you have PE set to engage)

    you can aim for just one afr if you want, but I would think at 3000 rpm you might not need as much fuel as 6000 rpm as you are not actually taking in that much air until the higher rpms...

    as far as leaving your base tables at stoich, I would not do that either...by having a lower base table then stoich you are automatically going to jump to a richer afr upon entering PE. Lets say you hit the throttle but you start at say 2500 rpm, but your PE tables don't start adding fuel until 3500 rpm...you dont want to be at stoich being at 100% throttle and 2500 rpm.

    Now, I never set my tables as low as 13.0, since that made my PE scaling table seem kinda useless...instead at the moment (and with my VE tune) I have the base table set to go to 13.8, and then I adjust the afr accoring to rpm in one of the PE adder tables (not the actual adder one that actually is the opposite and makes it lean, I don't have my laptop infront of me at the moment)
    2002 LS1 Camaro - (12.9@104mph) 3.73 gears/3600 stall/corsa exhaust/tuned/Ford 8.8 rear end
    1996 3800 camaro-- (13.4@100mph) Heads/Cam/Geared/Stalled/Ford 8.8 rear end
    2008 Chevy Colorado - Daily Driver / Off-Road
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