Yeah, I get the gunshot from 1-2 with all 0's as well. I ONLY get it on the 1-2 shift when i shift quick though. It doesn't bog though, its just like the sound it made when I would NLS.
Yeah, I get the gunshot from 1-2 with all 0's as well. I ONLY get it on the 1-2 shift when i shift quick though. It doesn't bog though, its just like the sound it made when I would NLS.
No no, I get it with the table stock.
Yeah, I was just sayin I get it on all 0's as well... not sure why.
Appreciate the time you took to delve into this gmtech!
Weird WOT fuel trims today with the table back to stock. WOT in 3rd & 4th was +6 or so during a pull LTFT+STFT. Haven't been that far off that I ever remember on the Hahn CAI since the initial install. Also popped a CEL for P2096 (Lean 02 after cat I think) after a hard run & DFCO after I got gas. I'm catless though. I was running .94-.95 in the pull until it richened itself up with the stft with a commanded lambda of .88 ping city.
Earlier this afternoon saw the commanded lambda stay at 1.0 at 230% load. Something is screwy with the stock table and the tuned boost. Went back to all zeros except the far right col left at all 15's. Will check again tomorrow.
IAT2's were up in the 90's today with an ambient of 86 outside.
The BCM was possessed this afternoon as well. Thought I had a RR flat. Got the TPMS light, showed 16 lbs, went to pull over and it showed 34 again. WTF!??!
'12 Camaro T3 2SS/RS LS3 M6, SLP TVS 2300, Flex Fuel
2 of my wheels must have shitty sensors in them because I constantly get the same 2 wheels randomly failing! When I had the winter wheels on, 0 issues! So, must be the sensors right?
Im still on all stock table, haven't messed with the 0's and last row 15's thing yet. Haven't had another backfire tho after doing a coupler 1-2 pulls.I do seem to be getting a couple tenths more MPG on the overall avg screen. *shrug*
I could not figures out why my low mid-rang maf tuning was getting completely fucked up until yesterday. Changing these values completely throws oFf the %error that is reported. It told me I had 60% error in some places and when I tried to fix it the error would get worse instead of better. I don't know WTF is going on. Changed this back to 0's and now tuning is fine again.Originally Posted by Iam Broke
Last edited by fr0stb1t3; 04-16-2010 at 10:19 AM.
Thanks T-Man, I appreciate that!
fr0stb1t3, and any others that have been running a non stock table for awhile...
If you've been tuning your maf without excluding decel, your maf calibration will most definitely be off. Having the dfco working properly actually makes the maf tuning easier because it locks short term fuel trims so they don't effect long term fuel trims. If you tune your maf to include decel, those same airflow values on accel will be totally screwed up.
Here's my mantra, if all else fails, ALWAYS go back to stock and get your baseline back. You don't have to return to a total stock file, just the tables you're working on. The other mistake I've seen a lot of people do is depending on histograms too much for things like maf and ignition timing tuning. The histogram doesn't know (unless you tell it) what's happening before, after or during the particular cell it shows knock or an afr error in. I look at the graphs more than anything so I can actually see what's going on.
If you're changing this injector cut table back to stock or zeroed with 15's on the right (still working great for me), I'd put my maf table back to stock and retune from there. Or at least the lower end of the maf table, your wot cells shouldn't be effected by the cyl cut table, unless by chance your tune is trying to torque manage up high and the table zeroed out won't let it.
Oh and BYT, mileage can do nothing else but go up with dfco working. I'm expecting a big difference in mpg, especially driving in the mountains. Anyone that puts their cyl cut table back to stock would have to have an increase in mpg. That's one of the cool things about fuel injection, with dfco, most cars and trucks will get better mileage driving in the mountains. My truck averages 15 mpg overall long term. On a trip though, going up hill it might go down to 10mpg, but on the trip back down that hill it'll be getting 99 most of the time, which usually puts the overall average closer to 20. An interesting thing I noticed when I was driving with the table all zeroed and dfco NOT working, I noticed (on the instant mpg display) that my sky would get better mileage down hill coasting than it would in gear decelerating. That was one of my first clues something was wrong, it should get better mileage in gear than coasting because in gear it's supposed to shut off fuel, coasting it's basically idling, which is still using fuel.
Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 04-16-2010 at 12:12 PM.
Correct on the trims, if you have your histo's setup like the maf tuning thread it will certainly adjust for stoich on decel! Go back to stock then retune the maf
I tried the full stock table on my tune...
I like the way it cuts off now, it's like import cars, I love it.
No lag between shifts.
The decel is much smoother, it looks stocker now.
The car has improved mileage.
Thanks!
Doesn't work for me stock or 15's in one. Car just falls flat on its face inbetween shifts and NLS' feel awful. 0's for me. <shrug>
What is your rev limits set to??
Man, this fixed it falling on its face for me. I put it from 0's to stock and now I can NLS the shit out of it, and it just takes it. Before, I would get a major hesitation at times on a quick 1-2 shift (no NLS), and occasionally I would get a hesitation on the 2-3 shift too.
Why are the tuners puting 0's then?
Car goes much better with stock table.
Only motor
Ha Ha! I like that one. No offense to any particular "tuner" but just because someone has an internet following and are getting people to pay them for tunes doesn't mean they actually know what they're doing. When I first bought my EFILive hardware, I bought it from one of the most well know tuners around. He was a so called "expert" on my particular model vehicle and engine, so I had him set up a tune for me when I got the hardware. I've been "tuning" since the 70's so I didn't need anyone to tune for me, but I realize you can ALWAYS learn from anyone, no matter what their skill level. I was shocked at what he did to my engine! Holy crap if I left that tune in it I would have been buying a motor and trans in no time. I told him don't tune it for max power, give me a conservative, good drivability tune, and what I got was an overly lean, WAY too much timing and a just all around crappy running tune with HUGE flat spots across the rpm range. What I learned from him was what NOT to do!
I've said this before, some of you guys are better at tuning your own particular engine/vehicle combo than some of the tuners because you have gobs of logging and experimenting time. The biggest problem is when guys that aren't used to tuning or modifying things can't properly assess changes they've made. (Ok, that's a biggie afaic, I had to bold it!) VERY FEW people can make a change and OBJECTIVELY assess what the change actually did. I can prove that all day long, give me 10 customers with drivability problems, I'll spend an hour with the hood up doing nothing, and I'll bet 5 of them will swear it runs SO much better, 3 will say it's the same and 2 will say it's worse!
Bottom line (imho) give yourselves credit for what you've learned on your own cars, but be very careful assessing changes, it's A LOT harder than most people realize. If all else fails, like I said before, go back to stock to get your baseline back so you know if you're going in the right direction or not.
Back to the point of this thread, went for a couple hour romp in the mountains yesterday, I think at least on my car I'm done with this table. Tons of full throttle, full rpm shifts, about a dozen NLS 1-2's, lots of decel and idling too. Car is running the best it's ever run, not once did it fall on it's face or misfire. I really think the values other than the right column 15's have to do with full load torque management. If you zero those it keeps the full throttle miss and fall on it's face away. If you keep 15's on the whole right column, dfco works perfectly. (This is as far as I've seen on my particular car and OS, a GMPP base tuned LNF manual trans '08 Saturn Sky with my tweaks on top.)
Thanks for the feedback guys, I'm glad this worked out, at least for most of you so far.
Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 04-17-2010 at 12:18 PM.
I really wish they would have labeled the axis's (<sp?) on that table. Woulda been nice to figure out a long time ago.
Carlos, the reason alot of tuners leave that table at 0's is, they don't really care about driveability. Driveability usually comes on a car to car basis. As this thread proves, some cars have taken these changes very well, but some have not taken them at all.
I shift at 6800, and nls works 110% fine with it at all 0's. Smoother than butter actually. Even with the partial 15, after a decent amount of shifts it would fall on its face. Didn't happen consistently but I'd rather not have to subject my car to that ever again. <shrug>
Last edited by pantherqs; 04-17-2010 at 01:08 PM.
You're missing the point. the NLS works fine with all 0's, but the DFCO doesn't, which makes deceleration smoother and helps slightly with fuel mileage and fuel trims.
So this is just a pure drivability thing? Kay.
To each their own I guess. I really don't give a shit about drivability and mileage when I'm tuned, and at the risk of having my car missfire into the next millennium, I'd rather put the stock tune on for long trips than attempt to race with this table non-zeroed if there's even a remote chance of it happening.
Yeah, its driveability, and yes, to each their own. I have not experienced a single misfire with the table stock, so I doubt there will be problems. In fact, I have never experienced a misfire... period. Lol.
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