I am using a newer style card MAF but I suppose I could go back to the old temp sensor. Do you mean just have it anywhere near the front of the car or still in the intake track as mine is very short and sits right above the radiator. While driving its a non issue but all the heat from the rad goes right over the MAF while sitting. Looking for a suggestion on location.
Last edited by Exidous; 09-17-2010 at 08:20 AM.
I think on my Vette it's down low in the front where air enters the radiator and the intake. I would get it as low and out in the front of the car as possible to get it away from engine heat. You should be taking in cold air, not air from the engine bay.
sounds like one of those things you just have to get a feel for what it wants. I'm going to try and see if I can get this part tuned this weekend.Originally Posted by Exidous
So can i move my IAT sensor to where it wont catch heat soak?
yes. i moved mine from the MAF, using the stock IAT sensor that came on my '00, and put it down below where the AIR pump was, poking it out the bottom to get airflow. i've drove in the rain and haven't had any problems with it either. hot starts are a thing of the past now
If you have a car that has the TC active at clutch-in for a manual (and really all autos), I use it for rolling idle with F-bodies. Make a histo using the TC table and log MPH. At clutch-in, dips will populate the 400 RPM column with vehicle speed so that you know where to add airflow in the TC table.
I always wondered if you could run a RussK Idle config with the AC on and get the AC difference in idle compared to the non AC Base Running Airflow and use that figure in the AC adjustment cells....But I took my AC out.
I'm not sure it should come all the way down to idle until you get to the Idle MPH to enable Idle. Even stock cars don't coast at idle. What is yours coasting at?
it coast right above idle but it searches, not hangs before it drops. The idle searches but it drops when I stop. It hangs about 1000-1200 coasting
Sometimes when I back out of the driveway the rpms just drop and it dies. I can restart it and keept it running then it acts ok. I don't understand why it just dies when rolling back.
here is a scan log, about frame 950 I turned the AC on for a little while but turned ot off later
Last edited by printmanjackson; 09-18-2010 at 11:00 PM.
Good idea, I switched to a LS6 maf and have the MAF right in front of the TB and I get constat 100+ temps, I am going to move it to the front of the vararam tomorrow. Never thought about this.yes. i moved mine from the MAF, using the stock IAT sensor that came on my '00, and put it down below where the AIR pump was, poking it out the bottom to get airflow. i've drove in the rain and haven't had any problems with it either. hot starts are a thing of the past now
2015 Yukon SLT 5.3
Can this be used to fix a rapid idle issue?
When my car warms up the idle hangs at about 1500 rpms when I come to a stop and push in the clutch. After about 30 seconds it drops to normal.
I cant stand this, how to fix? custom os speed density tuning.
re-do idle airlfow tuning if the issue continues at stop for a few seconds and then settles out.
^^^ this is what fixed mine. I figured out what my problem was when I realized mine was stalling when the clutch was in.
Sounds good... how do I do that?
Last edited by 79 z28; 09-21-2010 at 01:34 PM.
turn off LTIT and run the RussK's Idle Scan from a cold engine.
If your having an idle problem with the clutch "in" then it's probably your idle airflow.
If your having an idle problem with the clutch "out" then it's probably TC or TF.
Too much air and it hangs, not enough and it stalls. This is what it did on mine.
Last edited by printmanjackson; 09-21-2010 at 01:25 PM.
runs fine when its cold it when it get to operating temp that it has the issue
Take the car for a drive and check your idle. If the car goes on cruise control reduce the Idle Air in Gear Table .2 (further if necessary). If the idle holds at 2000 RPM for extended periods of time reduce the P/N Airflow Decay table for all points above 10 MPH by 5% (multiply by 95) until this stops. Be vary careful on this table.
Is this the throttle follower airflow decay vs speed in nuetral?
Throttle Follower Airflow Decay vs. Speed (In Neutral): The decay value is the rate at which the IAC motor closes when the throttle is closed and the selector is in Park or Neutral. These values are subtracted from the current IAC Airflow value every 12.5 ms, hence higher numbers mean faster decay.
So in order to get it to idle down quicker I increase the number by intervals of 10% until I'm happy with it?
Last edited by 79 z28; 09-21-2010 at 02:11 PM.
you probably have tooo much air to begin with. Have you posted up your tune?
Well I see the decay delay being 3.0 tapering down to .8
So maybe I will start there and see what happens. From there I'll go to the decay in gear and in neutral, although with a 6 speed I'm not sure if the neutral one matters?
I'll keep the files seperate so I can set it back to where it is at anytime.
would using the STIT as the plot work wel do you think?
Last edited by Wnts2Go10O; 09-26-2010 at 07:37 PM.
If the TC is active, the STIT's are generally not. Just log MPH and the regular dips will populate the 400 RPM column. Drive around and do it a lot at different speeds. When you look at the histo you can view counts to see what MPH it's worse at. Know that (and obviously the logged MPH) then you know where to pad the table.
Not sure but I might have a few issue working at the same time on this idle hang.
It might be physical as well, I need to check out the cruise control servo and throttle cable and stuff. It seems like there are a few chararcteritsics to it when it hangs. If I blip the thtottle I can get it to come down off of one level of the hang up and then its at the 1500 rpm hang for about 5 seconds then it drops to normal idle.
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