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Thread: Need Help. . .Did the russk idle log and now car wont start

  1. #21
    Advanced Tuner 69lt1bird's Avatar
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    Try these to get started.

    Please make sure you backup your current file before beginning.

    Put the base idle one in both drive and park idle spark tables to just get things moving along.

    Download these files to your hard drive, open the table, at the top right is a folder icon, click that and find the file you need. It will open over the current table.

    Make the high and low the same for right now, after you are done you can pull 5* or so from the entire low octane table for some protection.
    Last edited by 69lt1bird; 08-24-2010 at 06:02 AM.
    Free HP Tuners Beginners Tuning Guide

    LS1 Tuning Guide
    Michigan Snowmobiler

    1969 Firebird: 11.67@114 [email protected] 1/8 1.70 60 ft. EPS cam 234/246 .602.606 114+3, 6.0 LQ4, L92 heads milled 10.5:1, Ported L76 intake, ported 90mm Holley TB, 100mm MAF, FIC Custom injectors, Hooker LT, PYPES dual exhaust with an X pipe, 4L65e with all of the good parts inside, FTI 4000 RPM Stall, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. HP Tuner tuned by me

  2. #22
    alright thanks alot guys. i will try it out tonight and tell you how it goes.

  3. #23
    So I used the tune; while cruising it is perfect. AFR is reading around 14.7. The car did give me a bit of a hard time turning on this morning, but I just gave it a lil gas and it turned on. But when I come to a stop, the car feels like it’s about to die and idle bounces around. The car gets rich pretty quickly to help keep the car on. For example, when I was backing out of my driveway, it turned off. And then when I got to work this morning, while I was trying to park, it turned off again. What do I need to change to fix this? Is it a fuel issue or an idle issue?

  4. #24
    Advanced Tuner 69lt1bird's Avatar
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    You Open Loop EQ table is set to all 1's. Reset to stock and then only change the 140 and up to 1.0. You are not getting any enrichment when it is in Open Loop and cold.

    You should do the same to the idle speeds as well, you will want a little higher idle when its cold.

    Try some more VE table tuning to see if you can make any improvements there.
    Free HP Tuners Beginners Tuning Guide

    LS1 Tuning Guide
    Michigan Snowmobiler

    1969 Firebird: 11.67@114 [email protected] 1/8 1.70 60 ft. EPS cam 234/246 .602.606 114+3, 6.0 LQ4, L92 heads milled 10.5:1, Ported L76 intake, ported 90mm Holley TB, 100mm MAF, FIC Custom injectors, Hooker LT, PYPES dual exhaust with an X pipe, 4L65e with all of the good parts inside, FTI 4000 RPM Stall, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. HP Tuner tuned by me

  5. #25
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Try This....



    and then get me a log using this config file as well..
    sitting at idle...hood open... fans off via vcm controls...AC off
    all the way from cold start to 220ish*
    put your wideband info in the EIO section
    post up the in PArk Idle log as soon as you can...
    get me some data in a second log in gear with your foot on the brake...same as above
    and then one log with AC on in park.

    if some PID's dont show up...this is what I need
    Engine RPM
    Throttle Position
    ECT
    AIT
    Dynamic Cylinder Air
    Ignition Timing Advance
    Idle Advance

    IAC position
    Idle Desired Airflow
    Dynamic Airflow
    Idle Adapt (STIT)
    LTIT Gear/AC off
    LTIT PN/AC Off
    Idle AC Airflow


    there will be one custom PID that I have in the config that wont show up...dont worry about it.

    I'll make some more changes to the file after I see the logs...
    might take a log and a write and another log and write to get it better

    wideband data is extremely importrant


    if you can move your IAT outside of the engine bay that would greatly help...GREATLY....
    I moved mine up to the front bumper support...you can just extend the wires and ziptie it to the support, or do like I did and drill a hole, put the grommet in. dont forget to seal up the previous hole with a rubber freeze plug or with some epoxy or fiberglass or something.
    -Scott -

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by 69lt1bird View Post
    You Open Loop EQ table is set to all 1's. Reset to stock and then only change the 140 and up to 1.0. You are not getting any enrichment when it is in Open Loop and cold.

    You should do the same to the idle speeds as well, you will want a little higher idle when its cold.

    Try some more VE table tuning to see if you can make any improvements there.
    i did that and it helped a great bunch. i kept the idle above 1000 cuz below it the idle fluctuates like crazy.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer View Post
    Try This....



    and then get me a log using this config file as well..
    sitting at idle...hood open... fans off via vcm controls...AC off
    all the way from cold start to 220ish*
    put your wideband info in the EIO section
    post up the in PArk Idle log as soon as you can...
    get me some data in a second log in gear with your foot on the brake...same as above
    and then one log with AC on in park.

    if some PID's dont show up...this is what I need
    Engine RPM
    Throttle Position
    ECT
    AIT
    Dynamic Cylinder Air
    Ignition Timing Advance
    Idle Advance

    IAC position
    Idle Desired Airflow
    Dynamic Airflow
    Idle Adapt (STIT)
    LTIT Gear/AC off
    LTIT PN/AC Off
    Idle AC Airflow


    there will be one custom PID that I have in the config that wont show up...dont worry about it.

    I'll make some more changes to the file after I see the logs...
    might take a log and a write and another log and write to get it better

    wideband data is extremely importrant


    if you can move your IAT outside of the engine bay that would greatly help...GREATLY....
    I moved mine up to the front bumper support...you can just extend the wires and ziptie it to the support, or do like I did and drill a hole, put the grommet in. dont forget to seal up the previous hole with a rubber freeze plug or with some epoxy or fiberglass or something.
    ok i will do it as soon as i can. i had to ship my WB controller back to the company cuz it stopped working. whenever i get it back, i will post up my logs.

    thanks guys for the help.

  8. #28
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    you can do the idle log now...I'm just looking to see if I can correct your idle issues... which air fuel will be part of the issue I am sure...but I can do some other things first if you just get a log for me.
    -Scott -

  9. #29
    ok will do tonight.

  10. #30
    this was the best i could do. the car turned off almost 3 times. the idle is horrible. here is the log. i tried to get it to 220, but it turned off in the end. my iac is way low. before i started messing with the idle it was perfect at around 40-60.

  11. #31
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    ok... from how it behaves... its looks to me that your car is not happy with the fueling its seeing...wish you had a working wideband right now.....
    but since you dont.....were going to work on idle with the fuel trims turned on...
    I personally believe you need turn back the TB blade some as well and do a TPS reset(unplug sensor...key on for 30 seconds... key off...plug back in sensor)
    if its requesting 0 IAC, its open too much...it looks like its doing too much correcting with spark to get it down...which makes it behave badly..

    heres another file...
    I made some changes to the IAC table and to the Airflow table...
    I also tried to pull a few % out of your VE table as a whole..
    I have a feeling that your wideband may have been lying to you slightly...especially at idle...
    I also moved the EIOT(End of Injection Target) to a slightly later spot...which should help out at idle, but not hurt anything anywhere else.
    -Scott -

  12. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer View Post
    ok... from how it behaves... its looks to me that your car is not happy with the fueling its seeing...wish you had a working wideband right now.....
    but since you dont.....were going to work on idle with the fuel trims turned on...
    I personally believe you need turn back the TB blade some as well and do a TPS reset(unplug sensor...key on for 30 seconds... key off...plug back in sensor)
    if its requesting 0 IAC, its open too much...it looks like its doing too much correcting with spark to get it down...which makes it behave badly..

    heres another file...
    I made some changes to the IAC table and to the Airflow table...
    I also tried to pull a few % out of your VE table as a whole..
    I have a feeling that your wideband may have been lying to you slightly...especially at idle...
    I also moved the EIOT(End of Injection Target) to a slightly later spot...which should help out at idle, but not hurt anything anywhere else.
    i was thinking about doin this. the thing is before i touched the idle, the iac was perfect. but now its at 0. im worried if i close the blade more, then the car will give me even more trouble starting.

    and ur right about VE table, i dont think it was the WB tho. the tb voltage was around 0.63 volts, i had to set the blade pretty high just to start the car before i got hptuners. the iac was pretty low and i closed the blade a bit and the iac was around 50-60.

    thanks for the tune.

  13. #33
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yahelou View Post
    i was thinking about doin this. the thing is before i touched the idle, the iac was perfect. but now its at 0. im worried if i close the blade more, then the car will give me even more trouble starting.

    and ur right about VE table, i dont think it was the WB tho. the tb voltage was around 0.63 volts, i had to set the blade pretty high just to start the car before i got hptuners. the iac was pretty low and i closed the blade a bit and the iac was around 50-60.

    thanks for the tune.

    just get me another log when you can... we'll get there sooner or later...one step at a time..

    try removing the AC LTIT stuff and add in some LTFT.... it can be just one bank...
    -Scott -

  14. #34
    so i ran this tune this morning and had trouble with it. i added 150 to the entire idle speed table and it is running good now. it seems when the idle dips below 950, the car begins to bog and idle horribly. it was driving pretty good too, didnt turn off once, no surging or bogging down. i will try to get you another log and new tune file this afternoon.

  15. #35
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    honestly...with your cam...which is not very big at all...
    it should idle fine at 800....
    sounds like you have an air fuel issue...

    buddy of mine was having a similar issue...
    when I put my wideband in...I figured out he was idling at 13:1....
    leaned out his A/F and the problem went away.
    his narowband o2 sensors were trying to switch around 200mv instead of 450ish...
    he has since went to a simulated narrowband signal (per my suggestion) and hasnt had any issues since then.
    -Scott -

  16. #36
    yea i agree. i figured its an afr issue. i wish i had my WB up and running tp fix it. i will just have to be patient until then.

    btw, i still have trouble turning on the car. i need to give it a lil gas before it starts up and then its fine afterwards. what would cause this problem? TB blade not open enough?

  17. #37
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    cant fix it without the wideband data...

    your startup is either really rich or really lean.
    possibly also needs more changes to the IAC Effective Area...
    but you have to give me logs to work with to get it there..
    -Scott -

  18. #38
    ok so here is my most recent log and tune file. i had to give it a lil gas to get it started in the beginning. dropped the idle down to 900. idle is much smoother. the lowest the iac went was 25, but i didnt mess with the tb screw. thanks again.

  19. #39
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    ok.,.. heres the next revision...

    the next log... we need to try to figure out fueling issues...
    so do a log with the IAC position, dynamic airflow, dynamic cylinder air, STFT/LTFT, ECT, IAT, RPM, TPS, Ignition Timing Advance....

    use the VCM Controls to enable closed loop and fuel trim learn immediately at cold start up

    I might be able to get your car to start better if I can see what it really wants for fuel and the fuel trims will get me in the ball park.
    -Scott -

  20. #40
    alright here is another log file with the car in closed loop. thanks.