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Thread: What to monitor to see when I spray nitrous wet shot

  1. #1
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    What to monitor to see when I spray nitrous wet shot

    Car: 2008 Opel GT - LNF engine (same as Solstice GXP and Sky RL)
    Mods: Dejon IC, turbo - back 3" exhaust with catless downpipe

    I have installed a wet 50hp shot nitrous with the fogger in the cold side IC pipe between IC map and throttle body.

    I did all the tests before spraying and everything looks like it is working, did some tests on the streets and went to dyno. Did 3 pulls from which one without nitrous and it and looks like it is working (all values are crank values):
    1) first run without nitrous: 311hp and 546nm
    2) 2nd run with nitro from 4000 to 6000rpm: 360hp and 549Nm
    http://www.seorom.ro/gt/dyno/opelgt-1st-2nd.jpg
    3) 3rd run nitro from 3500rpm to 5500rpm: 377hp and 626Nm
    http://www.seorom.ro/gt/dyno/opelgt-3rd.jpg

    Then went to the track where I sprayed 5/12 runs and didn't saw any improvement. For the values which I got on the dyno I should have see a big improvement, but nothing
    I logged on streets and at the dyno (laptop died at track) and looking at the logs can't spot a difference at all between the runs with and without nitrous.
    I thought I will see a difference between in commanded lambda and read lambda especially when I start spraying - no difference, I thought I will see some difference in Fuel Trims - nothing, I don't have 0 fuel trims without nitrous, corrections looks same.

    Question: What value(s) I should monitor in scanner so I can see clearly that I spray when I'm at the drag race?
    I know some of you tune for water/meth which I consider almost same thing but on a smaller scale.
    P.S. I can post logs if would help
    Last edited by Kelu; 09-17-2010 at 03:37 AM.

  2. #2
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    I dont mean to be captain obvious here but if you saw no differences in performance or in your scans at the track but got very good results at the dyno your system isnt working.

    the bottle empties out quickly btw and if you dont have a pressure guage and bottle heater with your system you should fill the bottle at the track

    your bottle will be full and the process of filling it creates heat so pressure will be good , this is what I always do.

    as for things to monitor air fuel ratio , knock retard , and injector duty cycles for starters
    PB's 1/4 mi 12.21 117.75 trap ,1/8 mi. 7.779 93.99trap , 1.949 short time (FWD W body)

  3. #3
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    murphinator: I live in a country which is very weak in tuning, I have 2 bottles, think that in my country (comparable with a medium US state) there is only one filling station, i'm very limited in options around here.
    I had one bottle full and one empty, after doing 2-3 tests on streets, 3 dyno runs and 4-5 drag strip runs I removed the bottle and compared the weight with the empty one and it was still heavy, than opened it to see if it still has nitrous and I could see white jet for some good strong seconds.

    I monitor over 20 values in HPT scanner including all which you mentioned but on the track laptop died after 2 runs without nitrous and the logs from the dyno don't show any difference, asked some other LNF knowledgeable owners for confirmation.

    For the moment I want to keep the system as simple as possible so is easy to debug, if everything works great I plan to add many safety/performance features but as long I don't see an improvement I don't want to get complicated.

  4. #4
    So there were no increases in your trap speeds between running the nitrous and not running?

    Kevin

  5. #5
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    Almost seems like you forgot to open the bottle. If n2o was spraying when your nitrous was activated you should have seen only a small change in afr if at all depending on how your fuel nozzle and n2o nozzle are sized.
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  6. #6
    Hi frend ^_^ Finally talked you into some nitrous eh?

    It definitely sounds like either the bottle wasn't open, your bottle pressure was too low or you ran outta nitrous. Maybe you developed a leaky line or connector? On our cars you'll notice a slight rail pressure dip when the nitrous activates and then it will level out near the top of the band. You also will see a bit of an afr fluctuation unless by some miracle your jet sizing and pressure is dead nuts on. Sidenote, our motors will take a 75 without much of a hiccup. 100 gets dicey.
    What size jets are you using for the 50 shot ? Also what are you running for timing in the tune and what timing is being held while spraying?

  7. #7
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    SSKev No let's forget about races because I don't have logs from there, MAYBE I forgot to ON the master switch. But on dyno is very weird.

    Leafy On LNF, being DI, the AFR is rapidly corrected having injectors in the combustion chamber with factory wideband, afaik this engine runs closed look even in WOT.
    If I forgot to open the bottle HOW I got those numbers on the dyno?

    pantherqs Man, I contacted you 3-4 times over MSN, no reply, I would love to exchange some info
    If no nitrous how come I got those dyno sheets?
    Next time I will monitor fuel rail pressure with and without nitrous and report back.
    0.035" (35 from NX site) nitrous jet with 0.20" (20 from NX site), this combo is rated for 50hp on a NA engine, I got 65hp spraying only in 4th from 3500rpm to 5500rpm with a cold bottle (60F). I think I'd better share logs?

  8. #8
    Second kappa on a 100 shot, eta 1 month?

  9. #9
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    LoL pantherqs, don't think 100 shot this year, the drag racing season is almost over here, maybe maximum 1 race more.

    I want to start low, to see it working at the race and than increase the shot. Also, remember I miss the 100 shot jets

    I would rather say 50hp shot successful kappa soon.

  10. #10
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    what do you rev to? If you rev to 7000rpms and have a six speed your never really under 5500 so it's not really spraying at the track.
    09 Cobalt SS/TC

  11. #11
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    cmiller8006 Kappa uses an Aisin AR5 tranny with 5 gears:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aisin_AR_transmission
    Final drive of the LNF Kappa is 3.73
    If we shift 7000rpm we get back into 4700-5000rpm, I personally shift 6000-6500rpm and get back into 4000-4500rpm.

    I didn't get "it's not really spraying at the track".

  12. #12
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    you said the window switch is 35-5500rpms, doesn't that mean that it only sprays 35-5500 rpm's and then shuts off? Not real good with nitrous. I was not sure if the kappa had a six speed or not, but in my lnf if I shift at 7000 it drops to 5500 rpm's or there a bouts. But what I was saying is that it wouldn't really be spraying because it's not in that window, but I didn't know they drop that much on the rpm's.
    09 Cobalt SS/TC

  13. #13
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    cmiller8006: i don't have a rpm switch yet, I spray pushing a button so it should spray no matter

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelu View Post
    cmiller8006: i don't have a rpm switch yet, I spray pushing a button so it should spray no matter
    Ok. I would spray it all the way upto about 3-500rpms before you shift.
    09 Cobalt SS/TC

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelu View Post
    Leafy On LNF, being DI, the AFR is rapidly corrected having injectors in the combustion chamber with factory wideband, afaik this engine runs closed look even in WOT.
    If I forgot to open the bottle HOW I got those numbers on the dyno?
    Well you could have gotten those numbers on the dyno, then closed the valve (like you are supposed) and drove home. Wouldnt surprise me if you just forgot to open the bottle at the track, I almost always forget to take my floor mats out before I go and auto-x. Or if you left the bottle open it wouldnt surprise me if the damn thing's empty.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kelu View Post
    murphinator: I live in a country which is very weak in tuning, I have 2 bottles, think that in my country (comparable with a medium US state) there is only one filling station, i'm very limited in options around here.
    I had one bottle full and one empty, after doing 2-3 tests on streets, 3 dyno runs and 4-5 drag strip runs I removed the bottle and compared the weight with the empty one and it was still heavy, than opened it to see if it still has nitrous and I could see white jet for some good strong seconds.

    .
    its obvious the system worked well on the dyno since those types of gains dont come out of the nowhere but something prevented the system from working at the track or like someone else said you would have at least seen an increase in trap speed. Are you able to test it on the street or do you need to bring it to the track again ?
    PB's 1/4 mi 12.21 117.75 trap ,1/8 mi. 7.779 93.99trap , 1.949 short time (FWD W body)

  17. #17
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    I can test on streets without issues as long I don't test it in front of a police car.

    I'm close to approve your theory guys: I did sprayed on dyno but it didn't sprayed at the track.
    Also before going to dyno I did 2-3 tests on the streets with spray on 3rd gear, I barely could feel it and than again couldn't spot a difference in the HPT logs of these street tests.

    Next step: refill both bottles, going to a different dyno, hopefully my rpm window switch will arrive meantime because I ordered 3 weeks ago and didn't arrived yet

  18. #18
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    get a pressure gauge and a bottle heater. the pressure need to be higher to get the better gains...

  19. #19
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    Was the bottle up to pressure??? Jax is right on point. When I used to run NO2 on my one car it would run VERY different before the bottle was up to pressure. Get a blanket and a heater for it and you will see a difference!

  20. #20
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    The bottle was cold all the time. On the dyno I got an increase of maximum 65 crank hp and I was testing those conditions to the track. I hoped I will see an improvement in ET but