01 4.3L no BCM

[50Chev4.3L]

Hi-new guy here with a question. I did a quick search and didn't find an answer, so if this has been talked about before sorry for duplicate post. I am putting a chev 4.3L v6 from 2001 S-10 truck into a 50 chevy 2 door. The engine, transmission, ecm and harness are all being transplanted in. I have been going through the harness to trim it down to necessary items. Anyways, the Body Control Module was missing, so I have been wiring around it. My question is, will my ECM be able to operate without a BCM in the system? I am sure this will cause check engine light, but am not sure if this is going to lock things up. I am planning on re-flashing the ECM but wanted to try and get the engine fired up first. Thanks in advance for the help.

[camaro1]

you will need to have the vats tuned out of the ecm before it will ever start

[50Chev4.3L]

I don't think this setup has the vats (assuming I understand vats), because it has a regular ignition key (no chip). Since there apparently won't be a vats problem, will be there be a problem with no BCM?

[camaro1]

it still has vats/pass lock(the chip is not in the key),, it uses a sensor in the ign cylinder housing,, the bcm gets the signal from the lock cylinder and then sends a fuel enable signal to the ecm,,

i just worked on one of these a couple weeks ago,, and i disabled the vats so he could drive his truck with a bad bcm

[50Chev4.3L]

Thanks! That is good to know, I obviously didn't realize that.

[2M8]

Hello 50chevy4.3L
I'm dropping 2001 S10 4.3 in a 68 falcon engine/trans is siting in frame (body is off i'm “re-skinning” S10 cab with 51 Chevy pick up skin and going to use a ls 5.3L ) Soooo I figured before I remove it from frame start it see if it still runs good??? fuel tank is there fuel line still hooked up so why not attached the pcm harness to eng and trans. Then splice all the pink wires at big connector C2 (under hood fuse box) together add a switch to batt + grab the two orange from C2 run them to batt+ ground black wire splice two purple together and touch to batt+ to crank and gray back to fuel pump to switch too, also pink terminal G from C101 to switch and dk green terminal p from C101 serial class 2 data to number 2 on DLC 4 and 5 DLC ground 16 DLC batt+ good all hooked up stand alone test harness
flipped switch it comes to life crank it starts and dies out (normal VATS thing) hook up HP TUNER reads pcm data go to system tab scroll down to security, switch VATS to “NONE” rewrite pcm it starts and runs like a bag of poop hold it half throttle to keep it running runs with a miss or timing way out.
Rechecked every thing twice... all powers grounds ect..
at this point I decided to get the rest of the body harness lay it out on the frame attach the steering column and dash to harness reinstall BCM.... re-flash to stock... turned the key started fine ?????? runs great
re-flashed back to VATS “NONE” still runs great so at this point I'm stumped don't know why it don't like to run good as stand alone maybe I missed some thing any help would be appreciated
I've done an 2007 LS4 V8 in a fiero stand alone and it worked fine go figure ???

I'm sure we can get them to run stand alone it's just going to take a little time

[camaro1]

try setting the vats to pwm, then go and set the 3 vats dtc's to no error reporting p1626, p1630, p1631

i use a different tuning software for these pcm's and with that software the factory setting is labled as serial( choices are serial, enabled , and none) with the other software if i set it to enabled then turn the dtc's to no error report,, the vehicles start fine

they will run stand alone.