24x to 58x converter?

[ccrp]

I know Lingenfelter has a 58x to 24x converter but I have an application where I would need to go the opposite route.

Like putting a perfect 441 LS2 stroker with LS1 24x reluctor into an 2008 LS3 Corvette whose PCM uses 58x.

besides changing reluctor wheels on a fully assembled engine, what are the options?

[Wnts2Go10O]

I know Lingenfelter has a 58x to 24x converter but I have an application where I would need to go the opposite route.

Like putting a perfect 441 LS2 stroker with LS1 24x reluctor into an 2008 LS3 Corvette whose PCM uses 58x.

besides changing reluctor wheels on a fully assembled engine, what are the options?

24x pcm but that wouldnt exactly be ideal.

[ccrp]

last I heard when speaking with Lingenfelter was that Lingenfelter has a box in the testing which does exactly that. Release date sometime within the next month.

changing from E38 to 24x PCM is not practical on an a A6 LS3 C6, if then piggy-backing but that is not a technical elegant solution either.

[S2H]

Lingenfelter already has a 58 down converted to 24 box....
I'd love to see a 24 up converted to 58...
I'd like to use a newer pcm myself.. LS1 pcm sucks

[GMV6Power]

Is there a way to change the way the signal is read in the VCM so a converter isn't needed? I know there is a table listed in Tiny Tuner for V6 guys labeled Crank Sensor Resolution, but I am not sure if this would be the type of table that would need to be changed.

[07ststtbase]

Is there a way to change the way the signal is read in the VCM so a converter isn't needed? I know there is a table listed in Tiny Tuner for V6 guys labeled Crank Sensor Resolution, but I am not sure if this would be the type of table that would need to be changed.

was there ever a solution for this?

[Richie1928]

was there ever a solution for this?

This is my first time posting on literally any forum, but I was able to make it work. No, i wasn't able to find an easy route with the tuner alone, and I searched this issue for days, because I swapped a 5.3l out of an envoy denali into a 2011 escalade for a buddy. (He didn't want to spend the money for another 6.2) Basically everywhere said it couldnt be done.It takes some work but only other option was to pull the crank. And the new engine was already in when I discovered it had the 24x wheel instead of the 58x. I assumed being a gen 4, that it had it but obviously was wrong. Don't judge. Lol In a nutshell, I welded a 58x wheel to the back of the crank pulley, made a bracket out of some aluminum channel to hold the crank sensor, and like magic, it works. So yes it's very possible. I can make a more detailed post if someone wants.And this isn't a Jerry rig. This should honestly last forever. I checked all clearance and really anyone with a welder can do the same. No special tools, other than a caliper, and some feeler guages. When I can figure out this forum, I'll try and post pics of the whole process.

[blindsquirrel]

Have you checked actual spark timing, like with a light and a TDC mark on the balancer, independent of what the ECM says timing is?

[RDF1]

Have you checked actual spark timing, like with a light and a TDC mark on the balancer, independent of what the ECM says timing is?

Your thinking what im thinking....

[Daniel566]

Im having this same issue on a 2006 trailblazer with the 5.3 got a motor out of a 08 ltz truck. I have followed your steps welding the 58x wheel to the back of the harmonic balance pully and made sure it was level and got a mount made for the sensor and it's gapped right with feeler gauges. It's still not starting, do you have to time the reluctant wheel to the crank position sensor?

[Daniel566]

This is my first time posting on literally any forum, but I was able to make it work. No, i wasn't able to find an easy route with the tuner alone, and I searched this issue for days, because I swapped a 5.3l out of an envoy denali into a 2011 escalade for a buddy. (He didn't want to spend the money for another 6.2) Basically everywhere said it couldnt be done.It takes some work but only other option was to pull the crank. And the new engine was already in when I discovered it had the 24x wheel instead of the 58x. I assumed being a gen 4, that it had it but obviously was wrong. Don't judge. Lol In a nutshell, I welded a 58x wheel to the back of the crank pulley, made a bracket out of some aluminum channel to hold the crank sensor, and like magic, it works. So yes it's very possible. I can make a more detailed post if someone wants.And this isn't a Jerry rig. This should honestly last forever. I checked all clearance and really anyone with a welder can do the same. No special tools, other than a caliper, and some feeler guages. When I can figure out this forum, I'll try and post pics of the whole process.

[2xLS1]

Im having this same issue on a 2006 trailblazer with the 5.3 got a motor out of a 08 ltz truck. I have followed your steps welding the 58x wheel to the back of the harmonic balance pully and made sure it was level and got a mount made for the sensor and it's gapped right with feeler gauges. It's still not starting, do you have to time the reluctant wheel to the crank position sensor?

And how did you index that reluctor to the actual crankshaft?

[gtstorey]

Index? Ruh-roh!

[Daniel566]

I didn't I think that's my problem, how would time it to the exact spot it needs to be at? I got the mount with the crank sensor mounted right below the harmonic balance pulley

[gtstorey]

I didn't I think that's my problem, how would time it to the exact spot it needs to be at? I got the mount with the crank sensor mounted right below the harmonic balance pulley

You followed the directions by someone that has one post and no evidence that it actually worked. Crank position sensor isn't just for picking up rpm, hence the "position" in the name.

[blindsquirrel]

lol.

[blindsquirrel]

I built a bracket for my SBC to run the distributor off one of the v-belts. It turns just fine and has spark when I crank it over but it won't run, does anybody have an idea what could be wrong?

[RDF1]

I built a bracket for my SBC to run the distributor off one of the v-belts. It turns just fine and has spark when I crank it over but it won't run, does anybody have an idea what could be wrong?

You probably used the wrong belt....

[gtstorey]

Should have used a ribbed belt instead of v. You know for “her pleasure”.

[blindsquirrel]

I know full well this will sound like a total bullshit story, but I once did a timing chain job on I believe a Ford 3.8L something, late-'80s. Put it all together, fired it up, and it died. Crank and crank and crank and crank and boom it would fire for a few seconds and then die, then crank forever and fire and die, etc. Took it back apart and it was out of time. Somehow, the timing chain set had a cam sprocket with twice as many minus one teeth as the crank sprocket. Don't know how it happened or how it's even possible since the chain fit correctly when installed, I don't see how it could do that since the tooth pitch had to be wrong to have the wrong number of teeth and still be the right overall diameter.