ssm90 full write

[irving_ink]

I got a file for the changes to be made to my pcm and was told that I should be able to do a partial write to make the changes. I am getting an error message saying that the file os id doesn't match the vcm os id. Does this mean I have to do a full write? If so, how do I go about that. In newbie language please.

[Bill@HPTuners]

Flash-write entire

[irving_ink]

Can someone take a look at this scan and give me any pointers? I just installed the SSM90 kit on my 2000 monte carlo. It idles rough and is throwing misfire DTCs. I went with GTP injectors and have the stock L36 TB. Is there any thing I can do to fix this? Thanks in advance for helping!

[murphinator]

dont run it that way !

15* of KR and over 10* sustained is bad news - your going to chip a piston that way , hopefully that is not your misfire issues.

your dead lean , large areas of your long term trim histogram is at +16 even when set to minimum value setting

you have no 02 sensor switching happening in your scans - dead 02 sensor ??

I would pull the belt off the sc until you can figure out the problem unless you think you can stay out of boost , if others drive it pull the belt...

is this scan on pump e10 ? do you have a wideband ?

[irving_ink]

It's a massive vacuum leak under the supercharger. Going to fix that and see what happens. Thank for the reply, I'll keep you posted.

[murphinator]

It's a massive vacuum leak under the supercharger. Going to fix that and see what happens. Thank for the reply, I'll keep you posted.

that explains a lot , curious to see what the 02's do after sealing it up

[irving_ink]

Heres a couple scans after the fix. I've had this 2000 Monte Carlo since 2001 and have always wanted to put a supercharger or a L67 in it. Finally getting around to it. I am as new to this world as anybody. I could really use some help understanding how to use the HP Tuner and what these scans mean? I bought Greg Banishs Engine Management book and trying to learn about this stuff.

I have a spot where less than 1* of knock is present but from what I've read it looks like false knock because it doesn't increase with rpms and it drops right off after appearing. Could I advance timing while being safe from the looks of this scan? I have a friend with a stock GTP and it seems like his car might have a little more power than mine. Not what I expected with all these mods. It looks like my timing in WOT is around 15-16.

I have the SSM90 and 3.8 pulley with a SSIC, GTP injectors, 3"dp, Plog, PEM, and K&N CAI. Thanks for any advice!

[irving_ink]

And now for the scans

[BigDaddyCool]

That looks pretty darn bad, I think you need to add some stuff to your scanner........ one being a wideband.

Your long term fuel trims are dead lean.... to me thats where you gotta start. One one hand you actually see less knocking if you lean it out a certain amount, after all you need fuel to make it knock generally speaking.

If this was my scan I would be 'super worried' honestly......... that sort of thing is engine failure waiting to happen.

Honestly I know zero about superchargers myself with the effects on tunes but I'm guessing it's all the same principle......... lean it out like you have and it will go bang if you leave it for too long like that.

My suggestion would go adjusting your injectors bigtime to allow alot more fuel to start with. Assess if you need bigger injectors or a stronger fuel pump as your injector duty is pretty much at max around 5000rpm even with leaning out.

*********

I had a look at a few more of your scans. It would seem you need to adjust injectors to 1. add more fuel where needed, 2. compenstate for random WOT lean spikes.......... and mostly your massive knocking seems to come in when the manifold is hot. So if you can in your tune, pull spark when IAT = x degree's etc.... Mostly by improving your fueling you'll also cool down the manifold. Leaning out usually heats up your intake penum/manifold and knocking usually just heats up engine oil. Both of which you need to try and avoid preferably.

[murphinator]

didnt look at your new scans yet , short on time this morning but one other thing we havent discussed yet in all the talk about your fueling (trims) is you do know you have to run premium fuel now that you added the sc and 87 octane will knock like a biotch right ? all factory l67 cars got a premium fuel only sticker inside the fuel door. and since you added the same sc as an l67 on top of an engine with higher compression its even more likely you would get knock than an L67

I also see you went with a 3.8 pulley which is the stock size for an L67 but they make 4.2 pulleys for ssm90 kits like your running. I am assuming you went with the 3.8 since you have the ssic (short stack intercooler) ssic is notoriously difficult to get sealed up without vacuum leaks so double and triple check that since vac leaks are un metered air and will cause you to go lean

this may still be mostly mechanical so check closely before changing too many things and always save as so you have tunes to fall back on

[bilemke]

1 bar map I take it?

11.5* of timing advance at .62 g/cyl at 2550 RPM? Wow.. I can't see knock at the level with only 11.5* of timing being commanded, but I would not call it false knock either.

[irving_ink]

I'm going to get the AEM wideband today from zzp.The supercharger I put on has some missing bolts on the snout and it's got some leakage in the empty bolt holes. Those should be in today or tomorrow. That should help with how lean it is running I would imagine. I also hear a faint leak under one side of the ssic. Whats the secret to installing these things without a leak? It's the 2nd attempt and still having leaks. Used a black high temp RTV on both the lim gasket and above the core. The only thing I think maybe caused the leak this time is when I torqued the supercharger bolts to ~18 I couldn't even spin the pulley because it was binding so much. Then I had to slowly loosen them until it spun freely. Could this have squeezed the rtv out and created a gap where it was tightened then loosened?

[irving_ink]

Got the bolts in the snout cured some of the vacuum leaks I had and look, more knock now. Guess it really does need gas to knock. Still have a really small leak under the ssic. Do these scans look better after solving some of the vacuum problems? Thanks for your help everybody!

BTW I am running 93 octane in it. I didn't get all the 89 out prior to the swap but it was less than 1/4 of a tank.

[murphinator]

well prepped and cleaned surfaces

clean out and dry all bolt holes to be sure to get accurate torque numbers

thread sealant/loctite on bolts

GM gaskets not garlock

torque down evenly in steps following torque sequence

let set at least overnight and double check torque specs , 24 hours is better

dont leave out any bolts and expect it to seal properly

check for vac leaks with starting fluid or other flammable liquid all around intake/IC/SC sealing surfaces - use caution , flammable...

I dont have any experience with installing or tuning top swaps ( allthough I have sold many) or ssm90 kits but do you have in place a rising rate fuel pressure regulator with that setup ? SC cars get a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that will increase fuel pressure 1 pound for every pound of boost above base pressure , sc cars also get a 2 speed fuel pump setup allthough most 3800 sc builds go to an increased volume aftermarket single speed pump like a walbro or TRE 255 sp what did you do for a fuel pump ?

I ask these questions because you need to mechanically be able to do what factory sc cars can do before you can focus on tuning. Bilemke also mentioned 1 bar map which is what your car came with , have you changed that to a 2 bar map setup like sc cars got ? if not your map can only read atmospheric pressure and isnt capable of reading pressures above atmospheric ie: boost

edit : I just looked at your new scans and you arent getting into .80 or .92 cyl airmass readings at all , sc cars should be hitting both those columns on a wot pull , I think thats the 1 bar map causing that

[irving_ink]

I used Felpro Gaskets from Autozone. Is there a big difference in that and GM gaskets? They seem much better than the Garlock gaskets I got with the setup. Do I use RTV on both sides of each gasket?

When tightening SC bolts should I go inside out like this?
6 2 4
8 7
3 1 5


I do have a fuel regulator on it that adjusts with boost. It's a fuel lab regulator. Came with the fuel logs from ZZP. I still have the stock Fuel Pump. I will look into the ones you suggested.

Do I just get a MAP sensor and buy a harness from a dealerhip to splice into the wires from original harness? Would I need to do any tuning to change to a 2 bar MAP sensor?

Thanks Again for all your help, I have learned so much in the last couple days.

[BigDaddyCool]

You gotta fix your leaks before even really reviewing anything....... but honestly, I think you probably need to post your tune up on here so we can have a look to tell you what you should maybe try with it?

Scans are a tad blind to read without seeing the tune file as all cars work different on their ECU's