How do i get a little more out of my 1998 formula

[pajamasam]

Went to the track lastnight and went 12.9 at 107 with a 1.9 60' (somewhat crappy track) but of course i want to go faster. What can i do to the tune to help my time.

I have:
3.73 gear
Slp Headers with Catted y pipe
slp lm1 exhaust
k&n fipk
Draglites with 275 mt's

I took out 50% of tq management.
Made the 2-3 shift times a bit faster but didnt seem like it helped. Should i change the pressure to make my 2-3 shift faster?
I added 2* of timing to the high octane table and it seem to pick up a tad.

Any other tips to get the car to go a bit faster?

Ill post up a couple logs when im on my tuning laptop if it helps.

[04SilveradoMykk]

No tune, no log... no help. Not much we can do to help without your tune and a log

[pajamasam]

Alright updated with log and tune. Need a config too because i was just using default?

Also this log was before i added the 2nd degree of timing.

[pajamasam]

Bump need some pointers

[04SilveradoMykk]

I reviewed the tune and log and have some pointers, I'll respond when i'm not on my iphone

[04SilveradoMykk]

After seeing your log, my first reaction without even looking at the tune is dial in your LTFT's. Spend some time tuning VE than MAF using the How To's on this forum. Once you have the fuel trims as close to zero as possible(or +/-5% by GM's standards) than you can begin to work on ignition timing. Your LS1 shouldn't need any more than 29 degrees of timing in the high end, you could probably add more without knock but it won't produce any more power. It seems you've changed the airflow characteristics of your engine enough that the stock cal isn't good anymore.

Wich is what we're looking at in your tune right, a stock tune with 2 more degrees of timing in the high octane?

Your IAT is high, high enough that in your tune it's pulling a couple of degrees of timing at the higher g/cyl (ie: higher RPM) The solution wouldn't be to adjust the tune but rather find way to suck in cooler air from outside the engine compartment. (Wich I though firebirds/camaros did anyway?)

The split fuel trims from one bank to the other can be an indication of an exhaust leak/header flange leak. That will make tuning a nightmare and should get fixed before changing anything in the tune. If you do not have any exhaust leaks you will notice the split fuel trims will equal out as the tune becomes more efficient and spot on.

Theoretically once you have fuel trims dialed in you can begin to play with PE. Majority of tuners say not to tune PE without a wideband O2 to monitor, leaning out the PE some can help your drag ET's. Ideally your shooting for a A/F in PE between 12.3-13:1 with an error to default richer as to deter knock, so 14.7 (Stoich narrowband) divided by 1.195= 12.3:1 AFR.

You can control shift 'feel' via pressures or by reducing the values in the Force Motor Current. Don't go pressure crazy on a stock transmission. I've had good outcomes in F-bodies by transferring transmission shift, force motor and pressure data (Not shift MPH) over from a stock 4L60E Silverado.

Spend some time in the repository to see what and how other guys modified their tunes. Cheers ~Mykk

[pajamasam]

Awesome thanks for the response! I will start tuning that stuff and have a quick check of an exhaust leak. But yes my tune is stock other than 2 more degrees and a little trans stuff.

IAT was hot because I drove the car there 1hour. And hot lapped the car and never really let it cool off.

[01ssreda4]

PM me, I can hook you up with a nice trans tune. Did wonders for my stock setup.

[The_Bishop]

Take that 2 degrees of added timing out of the tune. The '98 cars have a fairly aggressive timing table in stock form. You need to correct all the mechanical issues before you can really tune, anyway. What you're doing now is blind changes to see what happens, which is a good way to hurt the motor.

[gn2beatu]

Change your shift times to .150 from 0-280ft/lbs and .125 on up

Keep your 50% TM at shifts if your worried about your trans, but disable abuse mode in all areas. You didnt state if you had a shift kit or mods to the tranny, so Im not recomending any forcemotor current or shift pressure adjustments.

Do some research what others are doing for your vehicle as far as RPM for shift points. Since you have headers and some intake mods, you might need to bump it up a bit, especialy in 1st gear.

G/L with the tune, there should be plenty left in it, I have seen cars similar to yours go 12.8 without headers or exhaust.

You PE is at 1.25, as the above poster mentioned that is too rich. He said 1.195, but you didnt say if your running 100% gas, or the usual E10 that is at most pumps. I would assume the 1.195 would be fine on E10, otherwise if using 100% gas I would use a value of 1.175

It is recomended to increase dwell to 5.5ms at anyvalues that are bolow that in the tune. You can also increase your gap a bit if you havent already. If you do bump it up to that, make sure any of the mulitplier tables are set to 1.0

Under TM, general, increase your MAX torque table to a higher number.