Couple idle and trans questions

[Dirthead Racing]

4L80e, 2900 stall, 02 LQ4 short block, LS3 heads/intake/injectors, Patriot extreme springs, EPS .596/.600 222/230 112+4, Edelbrock 90mm TB, 85mm maf, Walbro 255

I set my file up using this:
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36318
Followed the writeup for 5 deg overlap. Car idles up to warm, stalls anytime in gear. Need to get the car to run so I can start VE tuning so I figured I'd do a Russ K to start. I set the IAC counts to 80 when warm last night. When I got home today and went over and did Russ K from a cold start. I noticed tonight while logging in park that the scanner thinks I'm in gear. I also noticed my LTIT for in gear moving. So I finished that up, copied the histogram into my tune into the my raf and figured I'd put it in both just to see if it would idle. Not so much haha. So I guess my questions are if I'm supposed to see Park/Neutral when in park(stupid question I know but I have to ask) and what from the 4L80e tells me I'm in park vs gear. My Reverse lights work on the car, not sure if that means anything. Also, if I set my IAC to 80 last night, why was it in the 120's today? I'm looking for some direction please and any help is appreciated!

[Rinkrat456]

How did your VE table come to be? I understand you haven't had the opportunity yet to go out and dial it in but already it looks artificially created. Perhaps put the factory 6.0L VE table back in for now? When you start tuning the VE table later do it in short segments of 1000rpm and you'll realize quickly the trend of the fuel trims.

By looking at your logs, after you adjusted for the base RAF, your engine needs more bypass air in order to maintain idle. This means you need to adjust the set screw on the throttle body to open it a few % more, followed by a TPS relearn. It's towards the end of my idle tuning guide.

Search the forums or the repository to change the values in your tune to reflect your new 90mm TB. Right now it thinks you have the factory TB so when the IAC motor opens the blade, it's opening for the wrong size TB.

Start there to get your LQ4 to idle at 925 for now, and when it finally does for more than 5-10minutes, reset your idle speed to something in the low 800's. Cold start around 950 and let it drop to 750-800. Your cam isn't all that big for a 6.0L so it should find 800 no problem. Re-d the RussK config after you set your idle speed.

[Dirthead Racing]

Rereading the idle thread I'm going to redo that part of things and start over. I guess that's the beauty of tuning haha. Couple questions though.

With a drive by cable(manual) TB, how do I tell the computer I have a 90mm vs the 78mm stock size TB? I see the ECT stuff for the dbw stuff but haven't read anything for the manual TB's.

When I'm in park, what should my current gear read? My scan was done in park but my current gear says G4. Where should I look to see if my trans wiring is ok when shifting through gears?

If I'm reading right, everytime I do a russ K and adjust my raf I'm going to have to reset my IAC counts back to 80 before performing it again until I get a good idle. Is that correct?

Thanks for the help, I'm not too proud to say I have it all wrong and start over again haha.

[Dirthead Racing]

Just went out and scanned my GTP, definitely supposed to see Park, N, Reverse, ect. Not sure why the car thinks it's in gear all the time. Off to read some more I guess.

[Dirthead Racing]

Tune is set to PRNDL switch on. Changed out PRNDL switch and nothing changed. Changed tune to "PN only" and I see park, reverse, ect. Changed tune to "None" and still see park, reverse, park and gear identification. Throwing code P0706(Trans Range Switch Performance) after switching away from "PRNDL present" setting. I'm running a Lokar shifter with a NSS switch on it along with the PRNDL switch on the 4L80e itself. I don't understand why telling the computer I don't have the PRNDL switch would allow me to log what gear I'm actually in. I'm obviously confused.

I reset my VE table as instructed. I also set all the idle settings back to stock and worked back through the idle area's from the writeup. Starts and idles now, down to 800rpm if I want without dieing out when shifting into gear. I can at least VE tune from where it's at, then move to maf, then come back to idle. Thanks for the help there.

Any comments on the trans stuff? I really don't want to start VE tuning to find out I needed to change the trans setup and start over haha. I will, would just prefer not to though.

[Dirthead Racing]

Am I asking stupid questions or something?

[Rinkrat456]

If I knew the answers to your tranny questions I'd help out but I see myself asking the same questions if I were in your shoes.

Glad to know your idle is getting sorted out at least.

[Dirthead Racing]

I'll keep trying different things until I get something to work. Weird that it shifts and drives fine, but won't show park, rev, ect when scanning. I'm not sure what the deal is there. All well, I'll get it figured out. Hope to get some actual tuning done yet this year but I'm running out of time fast

[Dirthead Racing]

The code turned out to be a wiring harness issue in the harness I paid to have done I repinned it at the ecm and the code went away and TC is locking properly now. Still don't see the gear selector like I should but it works fine so I haven't spent anymore time on it.

[ahartz28]

if your not seeing the gear selection it maybe something in the PRNDL switch or circuits

[TXjeepTJ]

Hey I had the same issue, turned out to be System>General>PRNDL Equiped ---- I had it set to "NONE" and it needed to be set to "PRNDL"!!!!!!