LNF Guide Videos

[cobaltssoverbooster]

the videos are in order.
the reason for current order:
1) if you don't know the software you wont get anywhere
2) torque man, cot disable are settings that get changed and usually never adjusted again so best to get them out of the way and accounted for
3) kr is the weakness of the lnf/ldk/lhu series engines and thus before making the more fun changes must be covered so a tune can remain safe after changes are made.
4) boost is the fun stuff and where most people decide to call it quits. boost and afr net most of the power and after timing is kicked in most everything is set and done.
5) maf corrections are at the end because after all of the initial changes are made and determined kr safe you must then calibrate the maf reference tables to obtain correct fuel trims
this also skews the calculations for lb/min flow numbers and torque calculations.
the other note for maf cal's is that after every change is made the maf must be re-calibrated to verify the changes are accurate when the new trim values are acquired. (you make a change/adjust maf/the calculations are skewed properly/now the lb/min values are more accurate and able to verify if change while not on the dyno was good)


i have said it many times before....there is no replacement for paying for a day or two of dyno time to work every bug out of your tune. myself, i prefer to use solid state dyno's for covering a lot of the tune then dynamic dyno the next day to verify i have no hiccups while sweeping, then touch up with road dynamics imperfection corrections to finish.

[Knightwolf]

I noticed that even though things are working close to the way they should be, that my boost readings in my histogram are still saying up to 100 psi.. must be something in my config file I'd guess. Also forgot to mention that it only shows readings at 10% load which is also odd.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

your not logging LOAD in the table primary. the scanner doesnt follow the load axis because it wasnt told to read the load from the ecu.
plus your boost reading is in kpa. so you calculate like so:
@ a boost lo res sensor reading of 255 kpa and a baro sensor reading of 92 kpa you get a manifold pressure of 163 kpa. formula boost - baro = manifold true pressure
under tools in the scanner use the converter and you will find 163 kpa is = to 23 psi
so when your car made 256/255 kpa you were at 23.7/23.6 psi in the manifold

the best way to correct this into dummy proof form would be to make a custom pid as such:
([PID.2338]-[PID.51]) = ([Boost Lo Res]-[Barometric pressure])
the scanner automatically reads these in kpa so in your histogram all you have to do is change the units from kpa to psi and it converts the equation to match and shows you true psi in your plotted histogram.

[Knightwolf]

Ok thanks.. did I fry my sensors though? LoL

[cobaltssoverbooster]

you wont know till you lower the boost and see how it registers but for now it looked ok

[Knightwolf]

Ya.. I lowered it as you had said and then I had 11 or 12 psi again.. upped it back to 98% or thereabouts, and only got 13 psi.. I dunno why it acts like that but the only thing that seems to work for me is if I take an entire chart from a stock or gm stage 1 file, multiply it by .4, load it, run it, log it(I get 7-8 psi), then go back into the WG DC table and take a number like 60 and add it to the entire chart. Then I can actually get close to the proper boost levels. That's the same way that I had originally fixed my boost issue, but it overboosted and threw that P0234 code. It seems not half bad right now, but I know the car is nowhere near what it'd normally be, and quite a ways away from that overboost condition that it had in that 1 log; it pulled like mad like that lol.. never pulled like that before; I was like, "holy shit!" haha

[cobaltssoverbooster]

thats because you were boosting 23.8 psi which is over the sensor cap of 23.6 max.
did you switch to my scanner config or at least have a proper boost calculation custom pid?
i do think something is going on, if i take a factory tune make my standard changes they run great so we just need to find what happened and you'll be set.

make sure you log this list in the table primary:
rpm
kr cyl 1,2,3,4
injector duty msec
load
baro pressure
boost lo res
advance
intake and exhaust cam *
maf hz
wb lambda b1
iat
iat2
ltft bank 1
stft bank 1

if you have those the custom pids are easy

[Knightwolf]

Ya.. got all those and it is your config file that I'm using now.. and if you mean a proper boost calculation pid, I assume the one that you said to add which I also already had.
([PID.2338]-[PID.51]) = ([Boost Lo Res]-[Barometric pressure])
Perhaps part of my problem is windows 8.. apparently it's not well supported yet, but I do have the beta version which is what I'm using.. could be the trouble, Idk just guessing...

[cobaltssoverbooster]

In a log select the boost histo with custom boost pid.
Right click load all data, select plus sign (maxim values) then take screenshot.
Send the same log to me or load it here and ill screen shot to compare.

If software issue is really happening then contact hpt with info log and problem so they can fix it for everyone.

[Knightwolf]

I'll look into this in a few minutes.. But just wanted to say what happened last night: Went to my car to upload an updated tune so I started it up to warm up first... the car was running rough, and as I scrolled through my Rpd, I noticed that my cam phaser monitor said "Data not available" I was like.. wtf? Shut the car off, tried again.. same thing.. uploaded new tune with some changes, same thing.... loaded a stock base tune file, same thing... I started to freak out like something was broken on my car; it was fine when I shut it off the previous night. I decided to throw my old Trifecta file back on there and did a write entire. Car ran smooth as glass.. the Rpd returned to normal after a few seconds and everything was good. Now, for some unknown reason, the car is also running properly with the trifecta tune; and by properly, I mean damn strong and 0 Kr going on, whereas before it'd almost always have 3º of Kr in the midrange which I complained to Vince about multiple times, but he'd never listen. Anyways, it's all good now but I need to figure out what's going on with this HpT thing, or if it's the software, or what's happening. Scared the shit out of me tbh lol
I'll go grab my laptop and get you a screenshot as you requested.
Thx for all your troubles.. I feel like I'm being a real Pita now though

[Knightwolf]

Ok.. well that was tedious.. just finding paint on win8 was hard enough lol
Attachment 38875Attachment 38876

I also just checked my scanner version.. 2.23.855 beta

[cobaltssoverbooster]

your logging the boost lo res sensor only on the histogram.

picture step by step: (must be connected to car with no logs open)
1) open histogram and click icon circled in red
2)selected chart tab your trying to graph boost on, then click green section
3)click yellow section till the blurple section shows. select an open slot and fill it out to match

4)now when you go back to the histo setup section and click green section again
5)select the black circle to be your pid

log and graph. make sure you read your max boost levels by selecting the + sign.....
+ means maximum values
- means minimum values
A means average of all data in the cells
L means last value which when you scroll through the Charts function a white bar shows you spot in time during the log. Last means wherever that line is, thats the value its showing. it will highlight the histo cell in yellow usually to show its place.

i showed your maximum boost levels both in corrected boost psi and kpa

custom boost.pngcorrected.png

[cobaltssoverbooster]

keep moving the wg% up till the boost level is 23 from 3300 till wherever it falls off.
your max now is 18 psi

[Knightwolf]

Not trying to be a dick.. but you didn't notice that the 2 screenshots were 2 different configs.. the first being my original that I made based upon your videos, which did in fact have the custom Pid in there on the middle window, and the 2nd being the LNF config file that you sent me yesterday, which for some reason has only boost sensor lo-res on it.. it's all good, I just changed that and have it working now.
That being said, I think the initial problem with the readings may have been that I used a default imperial instead of a default metric, or vice versa, not sure which; but at any rate, I've got it corrected the same as your screenshots are showing which is something I can now work with.. however, with that being said, I guess my turbo is almost completely maxed out then. It's showing 18 psi as a max and that's at 95% WG DC, so I only have 5% left to work with.. and I know how to get that if I have to, in either of the 2 ways that I've used before to make it work.. If I put it to 100% and it doesn't change, then I'll have to do my multiplication again, and then add in another 65% and it should be golden.
My other problem was, as I had mentioned earlier and I've no idea what that was about, (maybe the config file was wonky due to being in metric instead of imperial, or vice versa.. Idk.. shouldn't make any difference but something was weird) was that my cam phasers went offline on the Rpd and the car ran like shit when I started it up; thought maybe it was my cat warmup cycle being disabled, but I just checked and that's not the case... so any idea what that was?
I'm using your config file now anyhow.. just changed the Boost tab on it and I'll work with it from now on. Just gotta figure out how to get that turbo to spool more than 18 or 19 psi at almost max Wg Dc.

Again.. I thank you for all of your help and even though this post may have come sounding a little off at first, I assure you, that's not the case. I'm a total fkn N00b at this HpT shite lol but I'm certainly learning a lot fast, thanks to you.
Anyways.. something is wrong with my first config file.. going to delete it and use yours now.. I'll try again tomorrow if I get time, even though I hate to delete the trifecta since it's working properly for the first time in the past year and a half lol

[cobaltssoverbooster]

i forgot to convert my config i sent to the custom one. i personally dont use the correction factor since i know what kpa is what boost level. sorry.

if the dals are 255 the waste gate should land around 80%. there has to be a limiting function we've overlooked.
when adjusting boost there is no set distance the boost rises per % duty cycle on the waste gate. with that said i move mine in 5 for large boost gaps then when i get ti in the low 20-21 range i switch to 2 or 1. fine tune with .5 if you wish.

on second look i found more.....
COT over temp protection lambda = entire graph at 1.00 or it will dump fuel in like crazy
intake and exhaust cam base angle factors = 1.00 entire graph.
intake and exhaust warm base angle = copy and paste the warm tables to the cold tables. and copy the base warm tables to the knock angle > knock tables.
even though the car moves the cams as it pleases this locks them further down into a more user commanded phase.

and i haven't seen your latest tune file so have you done the changes to the traction control>turbocharger settings like in the picture attached? the settings are more effective for the higher boost ranges on the factory turbo. stage 1 file with a stage 2 copied and pasted into it will outperform a stage 2 file all the time. <dyno proven by many people.
turbo stg 2.png

[Knightwolf]

OK.. did those changes except I'm not sure when you say copy and paste a stage 2 file over a stage 1 file.. exactly which table is that and then I hafta wonder if I've changed that already or not..
Also, I noticed that the only difference in the turbo settings was the proportional gain.. from 4920 and up, mine is at .600 and the screenshot you showed was .500 from the same threshold up; other than that, all the same settings.
Everything else should already be setup according to your videos and any changes that I've already made to the turbo settings to try and get boost close to 23. Haven't uploaded it yet.. I suppose I should give it a try again lol but should I do a write entire, or simply a flash over the trifecta? Last time, I just flashed the trifecta back to stock, then wrote the HpT file over top of that.. maybe that had something to do with my problems as well.. I'm really not sure. Kinda like to do it right and see if I actually get anymore power than this trifecta file that I have or not.. it currently gets about 21 psi max if I'm not mistaken.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Stage 1 with a blended stage 2 is a factory 2.5 bar tune file.
You copy and paste any of the turbochargers settings I posted before to get rid of the boost nanny.
When u decide 3 bar map sensors need to be installed just copy the 3 bar sensor calibrations from the stage 2 into the stage 1. Those values are found under the diagnostics section.

Some people have luck with a tune over trifecta. I personally recommend contacting trifecta for a complete return to factory file. If your gonna take the time to learn hpt you will be able to make a well blended all purpose tune. No need to have two different ones on a switch but that's a to each their own option.

There have been a decent amount of reports about trifecta conflicting with hpt flashes. So it's up to you to decide which setup u want.

[Knightwolf]

Oh ok, so I should do a write entire then over the trifecta... Last time I flashed the trifecta back to stock, then flashed the Hp tune over the stock trifecta. I have my own cable and have been a trifecta dealer for a couple of years; service has gone downhill.

[Knightwolf]

Well thanks dude.. I did a write entire couple nights ago and everything seems to be functioning properly now.. On a sidenote, however, my turbo is pretty much maxed right out with my mods and it's only boosting 20 psi as a peak.. 20.5 I think it was and that's with about 99 - 99.5% Wg settings. I did get a boost nanny at one point though but I think it was at high rpm where I had the Wg settings above 100% but funny thing is, the log never said it overboosted. I think I may just put it to 100% and see what happens.. just gonna finish working on my timing tables; think I got a bit of bad gas the other day and messed it all up on the trifecta which is what prompted me to get back into this and finish it off lol. It was knocking up to 6º and had spark blowout as well under WoT so I decided to work on this shit again. Been so busy with moving and whatnot, kinda put it on the back burner. Having positive results now and the car's starting to "hum" the way it should under WoT.. just slightly less power but I think that's due to the timing problem I'm getting. It'll probably take a full tank to get the last 1/8th that was left of the previous tank that messed everything up. Otherwise, car's running well(minus the trims).. time for Maf tuning which I just read up on and am going to try to do tonight as well. Sounds pretty tedious though damnit.. a lot of time to tune somebody else's car and earn a pitence lol. I don't mind working on my own car, and really don't mind working on others but don't want to spend a whole bunch of time doing it.. an hour or two at the most. Guess I'll see how that goes as well, hopefully tomorrow since I have a guy wanting one.. should be pretty easy though; totally stock and never tuned before... I already have a base file to work with. He's getting it for dirt cheap since I'm still learning this stuff lol

[cobaltssoverbooster]

good good post progress tunes and logs to match if you hit a snag