LNF Guide Videos

[Knightwolf]

Lol.. ya I did hit a snag.. I'm going to pull my plugs tomorrow and see if they're fubar; it started doing the same thing again with the popping and knocking.. sounds like spark blowout but after reading a post about a 5th injector causing issues, I wonder if that has something to do with it as well. Anyways, I'm just getting home now so ain't got time to do sfa.. I can post he log and updated (again) tune. I dropped the timing way back and I'm still getting some knock.. it's weird because the night before it was running well and strong.. just had to tweak a bit, which I did and then it went stupid again.. frustrating to say the least. It could very well be time for new plugs.. the car is quite finicky about being taken care of lol and those ones are at least 1 year old.. I forget when I did them last; it was either last spring or the previous year in the summer or fall.. can't recall. I'll know as soon as I pull em though and if it's not them, then it's back to the tune. Fortunately, I have 2 spare sets sitting around here.. some 3787's and the same ones that are in it now, which are 2 steps colder(it likes colder plugs, maybe the gas, or the tuning combined with mods, or air quality, hell if I know, but it's what I found to work for taking out "false knock" almost 3 years ago). I'm kinda wondering if that gas burned the electrodes off or something.. ever since I put that 3/4 of a tank in, it started acting up; not right away, but probably after 60 miles or thereabouts and it was running perfectly fine before that. Hopefully I'll be home at a decent hour tomorrow and can take a look.. so much to do and so bloody little time. You know, when you get older, it seems the days are never long enough to get shit done but when you're young, a day takes forever to pass by. Aging sucks, Period!
Posting the latest tune file, dialed way back, and also cut and pasted stage 1 timing tables with only 5º added to them.. also put the timing tables back to the factory differences because it seemed that some cylinders were knocking more than others so I figured that'd stabilize it out a bit, which it kind of did but it's still off.
Also, just for shit, I uploaded my trifecta datalog just for reference on tables etc. Can't really see his settings, but can see what it's doing and one thing I noticed, he somehow has me up to 23 and 24 psi with his tune on the factory sensors... wish I could do that lol. You can also see the mad knock I was getting as well, which btw, I didn't have until I put the other fkn gas in! I'll never do that again :-!

[Knightwolf]

Just took a look at the display chart from that last datalog.. I noticed at one point, at 4:12 the injector duty was at 25%, boost around 110kpa, lambda at 85 and also 0 Kr all at around 4600rpm.. I thought I read somewhere that above 6% injector duty caused problems, like popping or spark blowout, but I could be wrong. Just thought I'd ask..

[projectlnf]

if im not mistaken if you see more duty cycle you can compensate that by injection angles.. my injector ms are up to 7.2 when i first go wot and then they slowly come back down. but i stopped the missfire windows by moving injection angles to earlier in the rotation.. someone correct me if im wrong but it worked on mine

[cobaltssoverbooster]

you have to read the injectors in msec not %. msec is more accurate and can be measured and formulated into a crank rotation degree value. important if trying to figure out ignition overlap on the big end.

[Knightwolf]

Have made a few tweaks here n there and put new spark plugs in...she's overboosting though and I'm afraid to go WoT lol.. it's hitting 24 and 25 psi at probably around 60-80% throttle. Going to try and turn it down a bit again; at least I can read it now whereas before it'd just misfire and I couldn't get any readings except knock retard from the misfiring. Tune otherwise, so far, is really great. One question though, it spikes pretty hard which is ok for me, however, it seems to spike really high then comes down.. how can I get it to stay more even?
Thanks again

[cobaltssoverbooster]

your boost coming in at 60-80% is usually a sign that you increased your dals to high during the smooth. the 100% load column is most likely ok but when you smooth the rest of them try clicking smooth entire only once or twice to prevent boost at low pedal values.

you are talking about the boost drop which occurs at 5500 rpm and up. if you boost a lower psi say 22-23 you will retain some up top boost. when i tune for circuit i aim for 21-22 psi so the turbo doesn't run out of juice too soon. also aids in keeping temps down on a factory equipment class. to help it though you will have to change turbo settings and massage your dal and wastegate tables until you have achieved your desired levels.

[Knightwolf]

I've been getting pretty close to where it should be, but upon uploading my last tweaks, it totally took a shit.. Now I hafta start from scratch, or at least go back 1 tune file and hope it works ok lol. Also, I am still getting boost nannies, usually at higher rpms, 5600 or 6500, something like that and yet boost is usually between 17-21 around there; what's causing that and how do I get rid of it? At one update I did, I had drove it for a couple of hours like that and after the nanny kicked in on 2 occasions, I shut off and restarted the car on both occasions, and it seemed to go away after that. Probably should've left well enough alone but I was still getting almost 25psi on spikes so I've been working on tuning everything out and making it smooth as much as I can. Have had a lot of progress up until that last update which just boggles my mind as to what happened or why. Boost dropped to 17 or 18 and I still got a boost nanny kick in, plus my fuel economy went for a shit. I was making minor changes to WGDC and .5 to timing tables if I remember correctly.. that was it. Back to the drawing board I suppose Sometimes I wonder if the software is buggy from time to time; or if my trifecta is buried deep in the ECM and screws shit up /confused Anyways, I'll be working on it again today.. gonna start from 2nd last tune file and see what happens. Wish me luck lawl

[Knightwolf]

Update.. started over and basically plugged in my tables and changed rpms etc... tune is extremely good now except I have to tune out some more Kr, mostly on the top end now since I actually have boost up there now whereas before it was like 13psi.. I've got 22.7psi at 5700 rpm now but it seems to start knocking in the 6k range so I just hafta work on that and then it's Maf tuning and basically done. Hopefully there aren't anymore weird issues like I've had so far.. still not sure what's causing them.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

sometimes tune files do get corrupted and you just need to start from the fresh base file you obtained.

[Knightwolf]

Damn that sucks.. I think it might be happening again too.. Kr just keeps coming back and back and back.. my spark tables are really getting whacked from all the subtracting and now I'm hitting a wall again in 3rd gear, like a boost nanny but it's only between 19 and 22psi.. I logged and tweaked for probably 3 hours tonight and it seems like I totally wasted my time lol. Is there ever false KR on Hptuners? I know it was probably real up top but it started doing it in the midrange after I fixed the top end so it must be corrupt again.. totally gay. argggghhh Guess I'll hafta play again tomorrow by changing the tables in the base file and see if I can get it back to where it was without Kr.. Also noticed that it was spiking hard tonight, maybe 24 psi, but fast and then dropping a bit(you could feel the power loss) and then gradually increasing as the rpms went up, at least until it hit that wall somewhere around 6000 rpm where it goes into a sort of limp mode; it feels like it still has a limiter on there somewhere even though it's all been disabled as far as I know. Anyways, I'll rewrite it again tomorrow.. it's late now. I guess a good base is worth it's weight in gold if things keep corrupting like this.. so lame.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

its not consistently corrupting. and klnock sensors do go through a learn phase. takes a few key cycles and runs to make sure they are set. make sure you dont have parts rubbing the chassis and that the charge pipe(if aftermarket) is not hitting the TB. physical contact always pings a knock sensor. review the logs as a scope pattern and look at the other sensor inputs to help determine if it could be related to something else. Maybe motor mounts clutch related?

[Knightwolf]

Ok.. well here's a question for you then; are the fuel trims able to cause Kr since they're not dialed in yet? Just looked at the "good" log where the tune is almost perfect except high rpm knock, and a tiny bit at low load, low throttle; the trims are almost +20 and barely -1.. at WoT it almost hits +13
If that was calibrated closer to 0, would that help to get rid of some of the Kr that keeps popping up. I do realize that the car does learn as it goes, but I usually clear the first little bit and try to vary my driving, rpms and loads, before I actually record and keep a log to make changes. How long does it actually take to learn most of the crap out? Like what I mean is, where's the threshold for it becoming an accurate reliable log? Timeframe?
I'll play again tonight, most likely drop some timing in the "good" tune up top and reload it and drive it for however long it should be driven to learn things. It was very strong with that tune.. I mean, holding almost 23psi at 5700 rpm is good I think, no? A little much in the midrange, but still not too much overboost I don't think, otherwise it should be knocking in that rpm range no? Was hitting and holding 24.5psi around 4k and then dropping to 23.3 and 22.7 as the revs increased. It was good, and crazy powerful.. Wish my 3 bars would come already damnit. Speaking of which, I just need to change the Map sensor linear under engine diagnostics to around 65 if I recall correctly and that's it right?
Thanks.. I'll check back after work.. Gotta get going now.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

With positive trims that high yes your motor is running very lean and compensating hard on the fuel trims. Use the map sensor values from a stage kit and your good to go.

[Knightwolf]

Not sure what you mean about map sensor values(engine diagnostics tab?).. if i'm not mistaken, that's what's already written in the tune, but I'm not 100% sure. Anyways, if I get time, I'm going to play with it tonight and maybe just tune the Maf now and then worry about Kr afterwards.
On a sidenote, how hard is it to tune a modded LE5 and what kinda info do I need in my histogram? Obviously AFR and Kr but what other things need to be checked, logged and tweaked? I have a guy in my club bugging me to fix his car lol.. really not sure where to start though.. can't be that difficult if I at least have a config file, or at least I'd think. Alot less variables than a boosted application... He's talking it's either me or trifecta and I have personal experience with both now and I can say that Hp is definitely better once you get the hang of it, not to mention about Vince's "good enough" tunes.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Yes engine diag tab has all the map calibration info.

Le5 gets tuned like an lsj in a way so read through the lsj files and ask any questions u may have.

[Knightwolf]

Update.. had it really good a few days ago, except overboosting in 2 areas and a bit of knock here and there; I'd guess that some of that was bs because of the overboosting issue in the 2 or 3 areas that it was doing it in. Other than that, it was running really well, gobs of power, and I did a Maf calibration, at least somewhat; it's not spot on, but it's within +/-2 so it's half decent at least and a lot better than mostly all positive fuel trims sometimes reaching +13 or +20 lol So I started dialing the boost down slightly in those spots, which was working, however, it seems that whenever I touch that damn WGDC table, it skews the entire table somehow in the ECM and reduces it all across the board. Once I got the overboost down, it probably dropped to around 22 or so, the rest of the WoT runs were mostly between 19 and 21.. tried beefing it back up and it kept going down lol.. what gives with that? It seems the only thing that fixes it is to throw a trifecta back on and do a write entire and them I'm back at the beginning, but at least with a better tune file everytime... it's kind of frustrating having to work this way and the man hours I've put into it are ridiculous. Wish I knew a better solution other than using 2 different tuning solutions to make the damn computer forget what it was doing and why. Thought I'd ask, but for now, the shit that I'm doing does work; it's just a matter of coming up with a perfect tune file and loading it up once over a trifecta. A lot of trial and error inbetween though.. I have the Maf close, the spark tables dialed in, and everything else should be set, except it seems I'm shooting in the dark with the Wg table and hoping for a good consistent amount of boost through the rpm range.

Also, about the stage 1 map sensor under the engine diag tab.. I had saw on one of your files that you were using 65.89 and -6.35 as well as p0106 low as 0 and p0236 low as 14.9. Are these the correct figures? Asking cuz it's what I've been using. Also wanted to mention, I changed the overboost error figures under engine diag as well and it seems to have made the difference in whether the car goes into limp mode or not.. From 0 to 24.7 I changed them accordingly like 80, 70, 60, 50, 40, and 30. That issue seems to be gone now with that change.. not sure why it'd make any difference since I didn't see you change that table at all; perhaps it's exceeding that error in some way as the boost increases, but remember, I have 3 bar sensors on now also and it shouldn't be doing that since it can read properly.. supposedly.. at least that seems logical to me anyway.

Ok.. well I'll leave it at that for now. On a sidenote, dialing the boost down and dialing in the spark tables, the boost has dropped down to 17 psi and that's even after increasing the WG up to 98% if I recall correctly. I was making .1 increments to the WG table to bring that boost down by 1.5 psi and it ended up doing this after 3-4 flashes. I did notice it decreasing across the board as well but it shouldn't so I increased the max, and beefed it up where it was dropping to no avail. It seems that table is my nemesis.. doesn't do what I tell it to except for the 1st upload, period.
Thanks again for all your help.. I've learned a lot but still feel lost sometimes when things don't do what I tell them to lol

Oh, one other thing.. I noticed in my logs tonight that there was a stuttering doing around 70 mph cruising in 5th.. it looked like something you'd see on an earthquake monitor.. like a tremor. Anyways, I've noticed this while driving sometimes when a file starts acting up, or didn't flash right the first time. Again, the way I've fixed this is to go back to a trifecta file to flash, and then an Hp write entire over top.. seems to be the only way to solve that issue as well.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

The map sensor values I ran are for 3 bar sensors that come with a gm kit. You are running the right calibration. Did you copy the lower map fail high code value in the diag section and paste it into the higher one?
The over boost section has a on off drop down. My tables don't change because I use the drop down to disable it.

[Knightwolf]

I believe I copied all the values that I had seen.. but who knows, maybe I missed something.. at any rate, as I said before, I modified the overboost error and I no longer have that particular problem.. but the tune does seem to change as I drive.. for example, the majority of the knock that you'll see in the log I'm going to post here mostly occurs early on, and even that is after driving for probably 10-15 minutes or more. When I first uploaded the current tune, I did a quick test and it hit 25/26psi in 2nd gear(did not save this part); of course I didn't keep the pedal down cuz the car doesn't like it that high either.. anyways, later on I start using heavy throttle at higher rpms to get it to "learn" and it now seems that the boost has gone down quite a bit without changing anything at all. I dunno if this is normal, or if my Pcm is having some kind of issue that I'm unaware of. Anyways, going to post my current tune with config file and log from today. For the most part, it seems pretty decent although there's more power to be had; I know that for sure after experimenting so much in the last month or so. Take a look at it all and Lmk your thoughts.

One other thing that's been bothering me a little.. in the chart display, how do I make it display what gear I'm in.. I've tried all 3 options that I could find and none have worked lol. Starting to learn what speed is what gear anyways, but still.. my old brain wouldn't have to work as hard :P
Also, at around the 9 minute mark, there's that "earthquake tremor" that I've been talking about that happens sometimes.. dunno the cause at all.

Thanks



Attachment 39363Attachment 39364Attachment 39365

[cobaltssoverbooster]

raise your turbo pressure rpm factor to 6.0
raise the pressure limit value underneath that to the max i believe is 74
raise waste gate duty cycle max to 100
at 6200 and 100% load wgdc set to 100
from 6633 to 7500 and 100% load wgdc set to 110 to help retain boost over 6k


other than that looks great. raise your dals some so you bring the wgdc down into the higher 70 % range. 255 dal usually does the trick perfectly. just make sure you match your dals to your wgdc table. keeping the dals as low as possible while running a high 70% wgdc is key, also if you need to go into the low 80's on wgdc 85 should be your cap before making an increase on a dal to get more boost.

[t24moore]

Interestingly I tried the wgdc table BYT randomly posted in the learn and share thread years ago lol. Nobody really responded to him when he did but I figured I would try it out. That coupled with putting my rod back to stockish I dont spike at all and boost started from 17 psi at 26 mph went to 22 psi after the shift and crept up to 23 psi by 109 mph. Never ever dropped not a single psi. Seems the key to maintaining pressure up top is to not have that spike.......Ive attached the scan and my tune file if anyone is interested. Ignore everything else that is wrong with my tune lol

Im now having an issue where im getting KR up top. Ive put my timing tables back to stock and richened it up. Im kind of at a loss at the moment. I have since lowered my DALS to 255 to see if that helps. I know Ive been a chatty annoying brat but if someone could glance at my tune I would greatly appreciate it.