LNF Guide Videos

[cobaltssoverbooster]

yes the spike has been covered many times. this is why we say make the boost flat to maintain high rpm turbo shaft stability. i run 20 by 3200 and 24 by 3500 and it goes 24 till 6k

tune review:
Dals should not be blocked in. the dals in the 100% column should be 255 after 3200 rpm the rest of the table should be well smoothed. like a stock table for reference everything is nice and smooth. if you chop it up then power wont be smooth and with the lnf/lhu they get temperamental with the timing as well.

pe enrich is good

timing still stock

traction control by gear still engaged. i would raise rpm by gear to 100 in all gears but 1st. 0 & 7 are neutral and reverse so those can stay stock as well. tune and fine tune then do 2nd gear pulls how you will drive it most often and move the 2nd gear values down to maintain traction.

max trq raise to 100 its more traction control nanny you dont need

max air load trq table 3500 rpm and up 100 and then interpolate the rest for a simple fix. (i curve my table into 100 to follow actual trq better in the model)

brake trq max to 100 if your going to autocross or big track race. it helps reduce power loss in corners.

optimum trq max load 3500 and up to 100 and smooth the table like the dal table smoothing mentioned before.

pressure rpm factor all 6.0

pressure limit set to 74

wgdc max 100

wgdc 100% load 5520 rpm set 100 and 6320 set to 110 to hold boost

copy p0236 range high and paste it into p0106 range high



take your main cam warm tables and copy them into the knock tables. this way when it knocks it keeps the cams where you command them.
and make the intake and exhaust base factor tables all 1 to lock the table into the warm tables. this will help get what you command.
cat cams are fine for a disabled cat warm-up cycle tune.


knock safety limit to 7200 rpm so if you knock you dont rev limit to 5k rpm.


not to tear up your tune but thats whats different from the norm

[t24moore]

Thank you sooooo much! I was hoping someone would because I thought I was doing good and now I can't get rid of the upper rpm kr no matter what I do. I truly don't know shit about these things. Thank you again man. Lol I will PayPal you beer money.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

no you wont.. everyone who asks here receives free advice.

always keep these thoughts going through your mind. The lnf ecu was designed in dept with many fail safes which means alot of table are interconnected. always ask yourself if i change this table based on its description what will happen. then ask yourself on the most scientific level what are the most parameters that will change if i do change that table.

so for say you want more boost. wgdc table says by increasing the value you will hold the wg solenoid closed longer which prevents the boost from opening the wastegate and thus creating more boost. thats question 1 answered.
question 2 get really in dept with it. As a result of more boost im going to heat the incoming air up. the hotter incoming air means naturally i'm going to heat the cylinder and as a result the maximum limit of timing just went down because timing advance causes its own heat as you optimize the pressure spike associated with igniting the fuel at the proper time to spike pressure at tdc. i will need more fuel because i not only compressed the air to help push more into the cylinder for combustion but i could also need more to help cool the cylinder off as to save parts by keeping the engine exhaust temps under 1300*. So i changed boost and now its going to affect timing tables and most likely fuel tables. well now its moving air pretty efficiently with compressing the incoming air but its not optimized because we have adjustable camshafts. so now it can affect a third set of tables. and lastly a 4th parameter which we overlook on the lnf by substituting parameters like intake air charge increases is turbo shaft rpm limits. we already over-boost the factory turbo by 4 psi by setting it to 24 psi. the turbos efficiency chart plots with intercooler efficiency accounted for is still plotted well outside the optimum range. in the lnf the air temps don't rise harshly until just after 24 psi and timing is still allowed in an acceptable range at 24 psi. the turbo shaft stability was still maintained which when all put together allows us to run safe at 24 on a bone stock ko4. the bigger the turbo, the more this should be considered since the weight of the rotational mass (turbine/compressor drive assembly) goes up exponentially with size of turbo components.

see how this adds up super fast? that's what the ecu thinks about when its running and it does it in X'ms at a time. the tables in here are connected on a level that requires a calibration to be well thought out. so now when you analyse your tune in the scanner use every method of data analysis to pinpoint exactly what is happening new from your most current change. as you make a change find the bad's and if they can be corrected in a way that gains power your on the right track. eventually you will reach a point where the bad's are unfortunately going to have to be corrected in a way of reduction to help maintain stability and safety. this will be the max your engine will be able to handle per your specific setup, and your final stopping point.

[t24moore]

Help is much appreciated. Ive made all the changes you suggested. I will load them and test them on the way to work tomorrow.

[Knightwolf]

Pressure Limit to 6.0? First I've heard of that.. exactly what does it do? And pressure limit to 74 psi? Wow.. I'll never boost anywhere near that lol.. what are those changes supposed to do? Just like to know what I'm changing instead of simply listening to somebody and not having a clue as to what I just did; so I can kind put logic to it and learn as much as possible.
As for WGDC, I found that the 95 or 94.5 works well for me and 99/100 was more finicky.. perhaps my DaL tables needed adjusting to compensate then?
I asked about the 9 minute mark.. there's that squiggly line there.. any idea what that is or how to fix?
And last but not least, is there any way to make the Lambda change faster than what it does? I think at part throttle and lower rpms, the lambda doesn't change fast enough to match the throttle load or something like that if you know what I mean... it seems to knock slightly under those circumstances and when I take a look at the Afr at that time, it's lean and a couple of blinks of the eye later, the fuel starts being funneled in closer to what I want. Idk if you know what I mean, but if possible, I'd like to try and avoid that although it's probably not harmful to have 1-4º of knock at low rpms and less than 40% throttle; and another thing about this, when only 2 of the 4 cylinders knock that way, what gives? My Rpd doesn't even show any knock the majority of the time and yet HpT is reading knock in certain cylinders at certain rpm/loads.. I think I saw 1º on my gauges in the car, and yet HpT is saying up to 4º at the same time.. kinda weird and I'm not sure which is more accurate or if it's even anything to worry about. The air has been pretty dense the past few days as well so that may be contributing to that minor problem as well.. really don't wanna touch my timing tables cuz I know they're really close to where they should be.. I had them dialed up another 2 to 4 degrees more than what they're at now and it was still running strong.. kinda makes me think it might be false knock, but you can usually tell what's false and what's real when you get up at WoT at higher speeds and gears.. then it's quite noticeable because the power you make is more severely affected by wind resistance and etc.
I think that's all the questions I really have for now.. except for one.. there's a guy in my area with a lot of mods and he's running times that I ran bone stock with just a tune lol so he's asking me questions about tuning etc. He was talking about a Trifecta base layer and an Hp on top of that that controls boost better which if I recall was something that Byt had come up with and as far as I know doesn't exist anymore. Also, he has a BoV, a CrO2 kit and I believe water meth injection as well.. how hard would that animal be to tune and what would need to be changed for a BoV, if anything?
Thanks again..

[cobaltssoverbooster]

pressure limit is just as the editor describes it.... the value is a multiplier of the baro sensor and puts a boost cap on the turbo. raising it to 6 discards it and provides greater boost hold up top. on a stock 2 bar tune the pressure limit is something like 2.32 and it calculates to a low boost limit of 22 psi at 3k and 20 at 6k. this is the fix i use to rid of boost learn down. baro at sea level is 14.7 psi X 6.0 = 88.2 psi then - 14.7 to get manifold boost = 73.5 max boost limit.

turning the pressure limit to 74 prevents a stock tune from capping the boost to 22 psi and allows room for anyone with enough money to boost 55psi like zzp did on the lsj.

the reason we keep the wgdc around low 80 is the same reason injectors dont exceed 85% idc.....the coil inside overheats and fails the solenoid mechanically.

you can set up a custom pid for lambda adjustments which would be commanded lambda over actual and use that to tune out the differences. the lsj guys do it this way with great success.
as for response there is no rate modifier so its goes as fast as the factory programmed it.
the knock by cylinder in hpt shows you the cylinder it starts on and if you know the firing order the next cylinder to fire will show a lower value as it steps the kr back out. thus higher numbers in one particular cylinder than maybe another.
the lnf is full of false kr so you have to review the data at the time of the kr hit to verify if was true or false(use the leading edge of the kr step cycle as your diagnosis point). most kr at low load is clutch noise about 70% of the time id say.



BYT's mask over is still out there and some people like them....but honestly with the latest releases in hpt there is better control with a straight modified stock 2 bar lnf file than a dual layer.
meth injection is good and isnt to hard to tune as long as it has rpm, tps(wire it into the pedal not the throttle body since the lnf command the plate 100% open before the pedal ever gets there), and boost references for turning on the spray. those parameters allow for a more precise turn on point that's almost exactly the same every time. makes it a heck of a lot easier to tune.
BOV, if atmospheric style, must have the maf sensor relocated to just before the throttle body and if spraying methanol the spray must be after the maf sensor or you risk damaging the heater element in the maf sensor and getting false airflow values. The intake air temp is in the maf sensor, that is IAT1. IAT2 is in the boost lo res or charge pipe outlet tube. after a maf relocate the temperature readings will follow each other so if you wish to compare inlet to outlet for efficiency mapping of the intercooler you have to install an aftermarket air temp sensor in the turbo inlet tube. Tuning for this setup will otherwise be exactly the same. Fuel in pe may like a slightly leaner pe with the methanol spraying than when off, but it will be a dance between that and ignition to achieve max power potential.

[Knightwolf]

WGDC.. I tried lowering it down to 75% or so and it'd only muster 11 or 12psi MAX.. that's why I've changed that table completely and have it maxing out around 95 which seems to equate to 23-24psi
A lot of information in that post.. Thanks a bunch man.. you know a lot of shit lol

[t24moore]

^^^For real! Hopefully one day I can be just as knowledgeable!!! So I made all the changes and increased timing 5 degrees over stock. Thing pulled like hell on wheels but knocked. Im pulling 3 degrees out of it until I get the tune more dialed in. I thought my ghetto tune before was fast but damn!!

[t24moore]

Another noob saibot question. If Im commanding .85 but the actual is .84 does this mean I need to lean it out?

[cobaltssoverbooster]

means you need to use the maf base table to rope the fuel in correct. that particular cell would be multiplied by 1.0119 to correct the fueling error.

afr error pid is: (commanded afr)/(actual afr)= % afr error. copy and paste special> multiply by whole value in the base table.
ltft + stft in the lnf does the same thing as that though. everything in the lnf maf scaling is represented in value of X%

[Knightwolf]

Ok... after making the Max Wgdc to 100 and the pressure factor by 6.0, I got super boost.. 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 and the car sputtered.. Obviously, that did something serious and I backed the WGDC down a little at first, to no avail, then by 10, no avail.. then another 10.. same shit.. then I said screw it, copied an older table and took 25 off across the board. After that, boost settled to between 17 and 21psi, however, it was still sputtering under WoT. Is this yet another learndown feature that will have to reset itself after some cycles of the key and some driving, or have I fried the turbo by running 26-29psi for 2-3 seconds on 3 or 4 different occasions in an attempt to nail this damn table back down again?
Kinda need to know.. was gonna hit the track tomorrow since I had it so close to where it should be.. this changes everything lol. Do I have a problem now, or is this going to correct itself? I'll have to dial it back up slightly once it stops doing this, unless it's something else I've overlooked.
Attaching log and Hp/config files again as well so you can see. This log was the low boost log where it was still sputtering. Seemed to get better a few minutes later, but still did it. I'm not sure, but it seems like it's going to correct itself, but if we disabled the boost nanny, why would it still be doing this? It's kinda like a misfire, but different...

Attachment 39396Attachment 39397Attachment 39398

[cobaltssoverbooster]

the lnf does have a learn period after a flash. It looks fine. there isnt any sensor discrepancies. the only thing possibly having an effect could be the optimum torque not being as good of a representation of the trq as it could. 3500-max in max load 100
highlight the cells that fall into the same selection you smoothed on your dal table then smooth the same on the optimum torque.
the key to the lnf is making all your changes smoothly. if you get rough with your tunes you will run into problems. same for me i got a little rough with one of mine and now i have bucking under light load cruising. gotta go back and smooth my data out to get rid of it.

the turbo is fine. oh and if you consistently spike over 26 psi and you have factory charge piping just give it a look every once in a while to make sure the plastic is stretching or tearing at the high frequency weld seams.

[Knightwolf]

Ok.. I basically changed the optimum trq table to closely match the dal table.. not exactly, but quite close so I'll load it up and see how it goes.. going to work now though and I'm late lol. Will report back later in the day.
Thanks again

[Knightwolf]

First upload seemed to work but only had 21 22 psi... just added .2 to WGDC but I think my file went corrupt again... its idling like its cammed or misfiring and so far from what I saw in the short spurt I tried, it only hit 19psi and sputtered like before lol damnit

[cobaltssoverbooster]

usually after a battle with a tune i check the plugs to see if i accidentally fouled one out.

[Knightwolf]

Brand new plugs.. installed last week. If I get time I'll check them over the weekend, but I'm not holding my breath timewise...
Just updating this post a little instead of making more:
Did some mathematical calculations and matched my Optimum Trq Table, Max air load trq tables, exactly with my DAL table and boy.. talk about smooth. Only managed to log 3 minutes of it unfortunately.. laptop died and I was working on it all night.. never made it to the track due to getting off work late, then construction almost completely blocking off a main artery, secondary road which I was going to take, totally closed.. wtf? Had to go a long ways around and by the time I made it.. over an hour later, too late for tech inspection so I worked on my tune all night.
I've no idea where the boost is at, but it could use some improvement I think.. needs more. My Rpd is reading around 19-20 if I'm not mistaken... again, if I get time, I'll do a proper log and see exactly where it's at. Not sure what to do to make it boost higher since it doesn't seem to want to, or at least it didn't earlier before I changed my Trq tables entirely.

Attachment 39420Attachment 39421

Log w/3rd gear Wot pull near the end of log
Attachment 39426

[t24moore]

Im so excited!Was able to go WOT a couple of times without a single hint of KR. I lowered my boost to around 22 and my timing goes to 13 up top. Im slowly increasing it until she starts knocking but I think she can take a lot more. One degree at a time tho. Knightwolf, you added 20 percent to the wgdc but did you do the same for the DAL? I find these go hand in hand, changing one of them did nothing in my case. CBSSOB stated this a few pages back I think.

[Knightwolf]

I decreased the WGDC (by 24.5%) lol.. it was at 95% before but since he showed me how to delete that last boost nanny.. it went nuts and I was getting 24 25 26 27 28 and 29 psi even at part throttle.. so I dropped it WAY down.. and now, for some reason, I cannot get it to boost past 21.7 or so and the curve drops as the rpm goes up, whereas at one point, I had a 22psi at around 3000 and 24.5psi up to 5000 tapering off to 22.7psi at 6300 roughly.. it was awesome and it seems I can never repeat that now.. Must be missing something.. but the car is running so smoothly now I really hate to change it; just less power than it's capable of.. I figure around 10-15% less
Have been wondering if I upped the DAL Table at 100% to maybe 265 or 275 if it'd fix that or not.. was hoping he'd chime in before I mess it up again lol

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Well as you two have found out boost is a dance between 3 tables. First max out rpm by gear table. Then do than dance between dal and wgdc to set boost. Then the third leg of control is lowering the rpm by gear table to gain traction. This table will lower boost so having maxed prevents a false maximum boost read. As for set values well every car is different so it's now a trial and error.

Boost should be adjusted by using 3rd gear logs but it is understandable to use second since 3rd puts you way over the speed limit on the streets. With that said do not speed on the street, it will be your fault lol

[t24moore]

All these test are done in mexico! lol