LNF wont start

[extremevx]

I suspect my ecm is bricked....was driving along about 25mph and engine stalled. got it running after a long ctank. was running rough and had to keep my foot all the way in it to keep it running and limped it to the house about 1/4 mile away. Could never get it to start again and would just backfire in the exhaust. It had a DTC for p0336 ckp sensor performance, so I installed a new crankshaft sensor. While installing it I stuck my finger in the hole and turned engine over by hand feeling the reluctor wheel and it feels tight and all the teeth feel good. Still engine does the same thing and code still comes back. Hooked up HP tuners and rpm signal intermittent. I checked harness and all is good but I ordered one and installed it anyway. Also borrowed the MAF and coils off my dads solstice and still no change. I had ECM connection come out and reprogram my ecm with the latest OS and updates. Engine doesnt throw the p0336 code anymore, but it will now start for a few seconds and quit. In my logs it seems everything is all over the place. Pulled injectors and rail out of the head but still hooked up, good strong spray pattern. Checked coils and all have good spark. ECM is the only thing left...Oh I did try to reflash it one night with voltage low enough to throw an p0606 code which I know is a no no, but forgot what I was doing at the time. But code never came back after a good charge. Here is my logs of it trying to start...tell me what you guys think.....Vats was also relinked when performing the reprogram

[cobaltssoverbooster]

im not seeing a whole lot in your log...you don't have enough parameters added into the primary table to really get a good shot. try the one I've attached as it will include other sensors required for synchronization on start-up.

did you know that you are a current candidate for replacing those injector seals? by taking them out i have assumed from your wording you just put them back in which is a no no on the lnf as the seals are pressed onto the injector with special tools so they are slightly over sized when installing them. this is the only way to guarantee a proper seal.
once removed they are crushed from installation into the head and will never seat properly again, slowly leaking the hot chamber gases out and melting them away. when you replace them make sure you are replacing them with the seal part number that matches the 2013 buick regal turbo numbers. these are the latest seals and are gm certified for ethanol fuel blends.

[extremevx]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I know I should have alot more parameters in the log, I was in a hurry. Yes, the seals are new black ones. I have a kit on the way from CED. I work for Caterpillar and the same tool we use to install the seals on our pencil type diesel injectors works for the lnf too. Did you notice in my log where the MaF reading is all over the place as well as the inlet temp going up radically and its a steady 36* in my garage? Also the ignition timing is erratic. Cobaltsoverbooster...I didnt see your attachment in your post. As soon as I have a good config file I'll go out and log an attempted start.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

usually maf readings like that mean the maf is damaged. have you tried unplugging it and starting it without the maf connected on the newest calibration? i just finished my clutch job and apparently broke the maf sensor wire, it wouldnt start so i got curious and unplugged it and now she runs again.

yea my fault on the attachment

[extremevx]

My dad has a solstice with the 2.4 LE5. They have the same MAF. I swapped them. My MAF runs in his car with no problem. Ive unpluggem mine, no change. Keep in mind that Ive changed the engine harness. All fused good and Ive verified the G101, G102,G103 grounds. Basically Ive changed everything but the ecm. Compression is 170-175 on all four holes. Also have pressuried the charge air system...no leaks noted

[cobaltssoverbooster]

sensor harnesses are expensive, remember to never cave into a complete harness unless you absolutely need it. its worth the time to pull up the legs of a harness you have verified bad using an high quality multimeter, and replace or correct the damaged sections. if you have to fix a wire in more than 3 spots the entire length of wire should be replaced. as the solder points add up the resistance will slowly build making sensor returns inaccurate. wasting your personal time searching is always better than paying, of course until until you hit the last resort to pay up.

[extremevx]

Yes, they are expensive. I paid $502 for it. Here is a copy of the log with the config file you sent me. Hope this helps. Just too many things acting eratic. Dave at Performance Auto werks has an ECM on the way for me.

[stromboli86]

Id say it is spraying way too much fuel looking at that log. Every time you start cranking the cyl 1 inj pulse gets pegged over 60!

[extremevx]

and why would the ECM being doing that? The Calibration is stock. I keep coming to the conclusion the ECM is fried.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

did you by any chance blow a charge pipe off or separate one of the end tanks off of your intercooler? this causes inaccurate maf reads as the turbo pulls more air through the maf than the engine actually gets. usually pumps enough fuel out to cause afr in the 9 range.

the rpm signal shows up in batches but idk if its the scanner trying to connect or you loosing signal. it looks like scanner since all the values dip out at once

[extremevx]

I just went and checked. I did a visual check of the intercooler ans all piping. Like I said in an earlier post, I pressurized the charge system to 20psi and there werent any leaks. I got rid of the stock intercooler about 10,000 miles ago because it was ballooning and went to a Werks Performance unit. Here are my thoughts. If an engine is cranking at a steady rpm, then shouldnt the MAF readings be somewhat steady also and an increase in rpm should show an increase in g/ps of airflow? If those two things, rpm and MAF, increase with a TB blade that is at a constant angle, wouldnt you see a decrease in MAP along with a slight increase in INJ %? It seems to me at times when rpm raises MAF goes down or at times when the engine is cranking at say 200rpms, MAFwill go as high as 10.00g/ps or none at all, or INJ% will be as high as 60 with a very low MAF of 1.22g/ps or visa versa. If there was an air leak in the charge sytem and the engine was pulling it air from there, wouldnt the MAF reading get lower? I can live with seeing 2-4g/ps at cranking rpm, but for the life of me I cant think of anythin that could make it go as high as 10.00g/ps unless the engine was running. Im very confused at this point. Ive worked on Diesel engines all my life, so much easier...LOL

[extremevx]

Today I pulled I pulled the front bumper cover and inspected the intercooler, ALL OK there. I removed the MAF sensor from the intake tube while leaving it plugged in, MAF reading is still jumping around though not high as before. Inj% is lower now but still jumping from 0-11 and 15. Intake timeing is all over the place. Checked IGN 1 voltage at the powertrain relay...12.5V. checked at pins 3,5,6 on the x2 connector at ecm..12.5V. checked for voltage on pin C of MAF sensor at 12.5V. Also checked grounds and they were good also... I did notice that as engine sits there w/ the key in the run position, the throttlebody id making a whineing noise and throttle blade is jumping all over the place. This isnt the normal stuff you hear when you first turn the key to run or after you shut it off. It will do this and then be quiet for about a few minutes and then go back to its random whines and such. It may do this for 2 minutes or 5 minutes..it doesnt matter. The throttle body came new with my intake manifold when I ordered a new one from GM. Might try my old one and see what happenes. My new ECM will be here by the end of the week..

Oh I also plugged in the MAF from my dads car leaving it out of the intake, and same thing. It fluctuates all over the place to. I did get a p100 for the Maf sensor that said it was reading 0.0 volts for more than 5 seconds while cranking. All circuits are good. The manual says replace ECM. I hope so

[cobaltssoverbooster]

leave maf in a start car with it disconnected?

[extremevx]

Ive done that a few times...No change. Engine will run for maybe a second and stall. Just in that amount of time my garage will be filled with smoke and the plugs fouled. While cranking sometimes it spins fast and sometimes it spins slow. It does this with the change of ignition timing which is anywhere from =7.5 to -13.5

[stromboli86]

What exactly was done/replaced on this car before it started acting up? Something certainly seems off with the car...Is it possible that the timing chain has jumped a few teeth?

[extremevx]

Thats what I initially thought. In my first post I said how the engine stalled, but I refired it after a long crank and it would stay running as long as I had the throttle floored. I limped it around the block to the house. For a whole day I messed with it. I could get ot to start, but like I said, it was a long crank and you had to keep your foot in it. It ran ragged like it was out of time, so I pulled the valve cover and lined it all up and the exhaust had jumped a tooth. After putting it back in time, and installiing a HD tensioner from Dave at PW. I checked compression to see if I bent any valves. Im reading 170-175 on all four holes. Every since putting it back in time for which Ive checked at least 10 times now to be sure I got it right. Since doing all this, Ive never got it to even do anything but start for about a second and then stall. Sometimes it fires as soon as you hit the key and other times it has to crank for 10 seconds. All the springs look good and as I roll the engine over all the valves and springs look good. Going to pull the head tonight....Just to make sure...Could the chian stretch enough to cause a problem or possibly the lifters bleeding down enough to effectivley shorten the valve duration and lift? I dont have alot of experience with gas engines like I do Diesel.

[stromboli86]

I have a friend who had a really hard time with his engine running very rough especially at idle. He had reassembled it and checked his timing chain several times and did it by the book. Sometimes it would start and other times it would not. Turns out he said there was some sort of cover or washer covering the "real" timing mark on the crank gear. Once he fixed that the car ran great... then it blew up because he did not listen to me that his tune was junk haha.

Sadly i never actually saw what he was talking about tho so its just something to look into

[cobaltssoverbooster]

if the timing chain jumps 1 tooth the cam adjustments would slam all the valves. the lnf is definately an interference motor. no matter what he would do there would be hissing as the compression leaked off.
i dont think this would fall under rocker ejection either.

[extremevx]

Yeah..theres a TSB on it. Mine has a shim in front of the crank gear and one behind it. I always remove the shim so I can see the dimple on the crank gear. My timing mark is even painted white from gm so you can see it.

[extremevx]

Cobaltsoverbooster...what your saying, is even with 175lbs of compression, I could still have bent valves and that they are leaking enough to cause the problem? At this point, Im open to any possiblities....Havnt tried a leak down test. Dont have a aircompressor or a regulator