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Thread: 2004 monte carlo ss (3.8 SC) Cam Tune

  1. #1
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    2004 monte carlo ss (3.8 SC) Cam Tune

    Hi everyone. I recently purchased an XP-Hot CAM From ZZ performance, along with new lifters springs chain etc. I am a tuning Newbie (Most ive done is change shift points and fan temps). I will have my fathers help tuning for the cam. He has been a master automotive technician for 30+ years, and has a respectable build list under his belt.
    Im somewhat nervous about the tune as the car is my dail driver, I have faith that my dad knows what hes doing, however i thought i'd post and ask for any advice you guys could give, as to the best tuning method. I also wanted to know if there were any special considerations that go into to tuning for this particular cam. (I already know about raising the idle 100 rpm).
    I have also heard that (if you replace the lifters and springs) The shift point should be raised to 6200.
    The cam specs are as follows for those unfamiliar

    Old cam 182/192 .413/.413 115

    New cam
    •212°/224° at .050"
    •Intake Lift .325" (.520" lift at 1.6:1 rocker ratio)
    •Exhaust Lift .335" (.536" lift at 1.6:1 rocker ratio)
    •116 Lobe Separation

    My Current mod list is as follows:
    Gutted factory Intake box with High flow cone filter, 180* thermostat, 3.6" pulley (2psi more than stock), colder spark plugs (autolite 104s) Ubend and cat delete.

    Thanks for reading!
    2004 Monte carlo LS 3.8 Sc (l67) Swap (sold) 04 regal, e85, intercooled, 80# injectors, rockers, ported heads/manifold Sold
    2003 Suburban, bone stock (for now) 14 S4, e40, pulleys, dsg tune, intake HPFP upgrade)

  2. #2
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    What are your spring rates and what lifters are you using?
    6200 is quite high, it may be your commanded shift point RPM but the car will not finish shifting until 100-200 RPM after your commanded. Food for thought our balancers are only recommended up to 6250, 6300 is pushing them then you should get a performance balancer after that.

    Tuning the xp cam is easy. Raise idle around 800-850, remove code P0300, and then tune like your normally would from there. If you dont have a wideband yet I would recommend getting one and following Russ K's OL tuning guide.

    Edit: You are probably nowhere near needing new fuel injectors but watch your injector duty cycle, if it reaches anywhere past 80% then its time for new bigger injectors.
    Also change your fuel filter if you havnt done it in a while..
    Last edited by Gibby; 03-05-2013 at 10:03 AM. Reason: forgot info

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibby View Post
    What are your spring rates and what lifters are you using?
    6200 is quite high, it may be your commanded shift point RPM but the car will not finish shifting until 100-200 RPM after your commanded. Food for thought our balancers are only recommended up to 6250, 6300 is pushing them then you should get a performance balancer after that.

    Tuning the xp cam is easy. Raise idle around 800-850, remove code P0300, and then tune like your normally would from there. If you dont have a wideband yet I would recommend getting one and following Russ K's OL tuning guide.
    The springs are 105# and im using LS7 lifters and a roll master timing chain.
    Im really counting on my father here, Because i really dont know much about tuning methods, im studying the theory behind the tables, but i just got my Hp tuner, a few days ago. Anything recomended for a "safe side" Tune, Im more concerned about dependability than getting every last hp out of the motor.
    2004 Monte carlo LS 3.8 Sc (l67) Swap (sold) 04 regal, e85, intercooled, 80# injectors, rockers, ported heads/manifold Sold
    2003 Suburban, bone stock (for now) 14 S4, e40, pulleys, dsg tune, intake HPFP upgrade)

  4. #4
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    I would not make shift points past 5900, effectively that will have you shifting at 6000 or so.

    Did you install a single or double roller? If single I would recommend replacement of the single after 50k miles

    Scan often, make sure your timing is not too high, you dont want KR. Its really quite simple, if you are not going to go with any smaller of a pulley you should be able to up timing considerably, but always scan after making any changes to make sure the car is running right.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibby View Post
    I would not make shift points past 5900, effectively that will have you shifting at 6000 or so.

    Did you install a single or double roller? If single I would recommend replacement of the single after 50k miles

    Scan often, make sure your timing is not too high, you dont want KR. Its really quite simple, if you are not going to go with any smaller of a pulley you should be able to up timing considerably, but always scan after making any changes to make sure the car is running right.
    Thanks for the info
    I found out i have some KR already (not sure why I suspect false knock) So i am probably going to wait on dropping down the pully size. once i get the issue taken care of, i am going drop to maybe a 3.4. Once i can afford a set of good headers and a down pipe, i may go to a 3.2. oh im seeing 3-4* at WOT but only above 5000 RPM it does spike during the shift however.
    2004 Monte carlo LS 3.8 Sc (l67) Swap (sold) 04 regal, e85, intercooled, 80# injectors, rockers, ported heads/manifold Sold
    2003 Suburban, bone stock (for now) 14 S4, e40, pulleys, dsg tune, intake HPFP upgrade)

  6. #6
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    Most people will get KR at shifts if there tune is not perfect. This is because during a shift you get a split second lean condition, there is a way to fix this in

    Power Enrich fuel Adder vs RPM vs time

    Its probably real KR, headers will definately help you in the long run

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibby View Post
    Most people will get KR at shifts if there tune is not perfect. This is because during a shift you get a split second lean condition, there is a way to fix this in

    Power Enrich fuel Adder vs RPM vs time

    Its probably real KR, headers will definately help you in the long run
    IS there a write up anywhere on this? I have been using the tuning right up in the sticky.

    on another note, i was told (By The people i bought the cam from) That it should reduce my KR to 0 from my current levels with my current setup, and that i could even drop a size. Is this true, or just them hyping their product?
    2004 Monte carlo LS 3.8 Sc (l67) Swap (sold) 04 regal, e85, intercooled, 80# injectors, rockers, ported heads/manifold Sold
    2003 Suburban, bone stock (for now) 14 S4, e40, pulleys, dsg tune, intake HPFP upgrade)

  8. #8
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    The cam will have some effects on KR, it will be a nice improvement.

    Here is a tuning guide, it was much better when it had the pictures, but is still nice to read
    http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...m_garys_tuning

    Unfourtunately V6 support on this site isnt what it used to be. But if you get stuck on something you can always ask a question. Feel free to post a your bin file and or scans and we can look them over when you run into issues.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibby View Post
    The cam will have some effects on KR, it will be a nice improvement.

    Here is a tuning guide, it was much better when it had the pictures, but is still nice to read
    http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...m_garys_tuning

    Unfourtunately V6 support on this site isnt what it used to be. But if you get stuck on something you can always ask a question. Feel free to post a your bin file and or scans and we can look them over when you run into issues.
    Thanks, Im feeling a bit more confident, knowing i have a bit of a safetynet if i run into any tuning trouble.
    2004 Monte carlo LS 3.8 Sc (l67) Swap (sold) 04 regal, e85, intercooled, 80# injectors, rockers, ported heads/manifold Sold
    2003 Suburban, bone stock (for now) 14 S4, e40, pulleys, dsg tune, intake HPFP upgrade)

  10. #10
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    Thanks, for the link. Its a good guide. But im curious, what other tunes will i need to do to get my AFR straight (or is that taken care of with the LTFT).
    I know i need to adjust spark tables, but im not sure what indicators to use to know what to change. is there a write up that relates all of the information so that its somewhat easier to understand what im looking at iwhen i open the tables? I know my car is running rather lean right now the LTFT is 16.4, ive decided to wait until i get the cam to begin tunning for this so i dont have to redo it in a week.
    2004 Monte carlo LS 3.8 Sc (l67) Swap (sold) 04 regal, e85, intercooled, 80# injectors, rockers, ported heads/manifold Sold
    2003 Suburban, bone stock (for now) 14 S4, e40, pulleys, dsg tune, intake HPFP upgrade)