Permanent Code problem

[IARLLC]

Yeah, flashing as "module replacement" will effectively reset (erase memory of the permanent code) if people have access to OEM equipment. Then as APS said, you could turn off the codes (through HPTuners) before they set.

Couple of notes on that:
1. If you already have the newest GM update....GM does not recommend re-installing the same update (they put up a warning on the confirmation screen just before you give the final command)....but I have done it in a pinch....and it worked.
2. If you have flashed in a newer GM update/calibration with GM's SPS/TIS (than the one installed when you did your last tuning)................I would not just flash your last tune back into it. I would use your HPTuner set-up to copy the newest GM update/calibration to your laptop then open a compare file and copy changes from your last tune into the newest GM update/calibration....then load that back into your car. I think that will yield best safety for your module and best benefit from GM's improvements.

[IARLLC]

I turned off the checks as suggested by JBZ and they went away just now

Great! Glad to hear it.

[Iam Broke]

I turned off the checks as suggested by JBZ and they went away just now

How many drive cycles did it take to clear the permanent code? I disabled the cat tests and did a write entire but still have the P0420 permanent on Bank 1.

2012 Camaro SS

[IARLLC]

Not sure on the GEN4 but Friday I turned off P0420 and P0430 and the cat test on a GEN5 (just wrote calibration, not entire). Permanent codes were still there when he left. He had 2 10 mile drives and a few start and stops between. I checked Saturday and the codes were gone. So maybe 2 complete drive cycles.

[Iam Broke]

Not sure on the GEN4 but Friday I turned off P0420 and P0430 and the cat test on a GEN5 (just wrote calibration, not entire). Permanent codes were still there when he left. He had 2 10 mile drives and a few start and stops between. I checked Saturday and the codes were gone. So maybe 2 complete drive cycles.

Thanks for the update, I just had one 70 mile drive Saturday so I'll report back if/when it clears. It's a garage queen. lol

[Iam Broke]

4 drive cycles now of 40 to 70 miles and still hasn't cleared.

[IARLLC]

Last weekend I got a chance to check back on that one that GEN5 that had the P0420/430 permanently. They are still in there. One of my guys checked the other day and said they were not there....wrong. Well at least they are not bothering anybody.

[Iam Broke]

I have 15 months until my inspection is due, hopefully something will be resolved by then. I'd hate to spend the $$$ on highflow cats just for that. (Kook's headers) Thanks for the update.

[IARLLC]

Here's a thought....
If the codes have not been triggered/cat test not failed, and you turn off the codes and cat-test I should think the codes won't recur.
Here's the test.....
1. You can get 2 of those "no foul" spark plug spacers sold by Dorman with an 18mm thread if I remember correctly
2. Drill two of them out so that your post cat O2s fit inside of them
3. Re-install your post-cat O2s with the spacers
4. Turn your cat-test, P0420, P0430 back on in your tune
5. Go for a drive keeping tabs on those two codes with a scanner to see when the cat test is passed/those two codes disappear. If you idle much you might get the codes again or you might not....but I would bet you can pass the cat test.
6. Shut her down and turn off the cat-test, P0420, and P0430 in the tune.
7. You could leave the O2 spacers in place if it does not bother you....or any inspectors.
Not that I have ever done anything like this........but I am pretty sure it works on up until at least 2010 models

[Iam Broke]

I have spacers installed on the post cat O2's but put them on after the permanent code P0420 popped. Never got the 430 code. I'll re-enable as posted and try it Sun if the rain stops. Thanks again!!

[Iam Broke]

After 10 or 12, 50+ mile drive cycles the Permanent DTC for bank one cleared today. Thanks to all!

[IARLLC]

YES! Glad to hear it

[jimmypop13]

I'm having the same problem with p0420 and p0430 being permanent. Anyone come up with a fool proof method to remove them? I tried the o2 spacers but the codes still set so that didn't work. Currently the codes and cat test are disabled but that was done after the permanent codes had already set.
Thanks for any help!

[rdemarce]

Why do you want the permanent codes out of there? If you're in an emissions state, they won't cause your test to fail as long as the CEL isn't on. Unless you just don't want them there, I don't think it will hurt anything to have them on.

[Iam Broke]

I cannot speak for more than myself but I didn't want to chance them looking further with all the mods to my car. Blown, flexfuel, ect. since I don't know what all they look at when they connect to the obdII port.

[jimmypop13]

My inspection is due next month and I didn't realize I'd still pass. That's good to know. But my A8 transmission is acting up bad and I need to take it in andi guess I'm a little worried about the permanent dtc's. The engine has been tuned but so far I haven't flashed the TCM because if this so hopefully I'll be good

[MMGT1]

Have you guys tried removing both neg and positive battery cables, connecting the two for a half hour*closing the circuit on itself? If you drain it of all power I dont see how it can retain anything. I would try looping the circuit to completely drain it, and then set those codes to no error before firing it up again. Worth a shot or have you guys tried this route already?

[lc46em]

Sounds like removing codes from your pcm incorrectly causes this issue. Just because you delete your cat and uncheck the box to not shoe the error code doesn't mean it isnt stored in the pcm memory. It needs to be removed correctly which is the problem most people encounter after exhaust mods.

[APS]

Sounds like removing codes from your pcm incorrectly causes this issue. Just because you delete your cat and uncheck the box to not shoe the error code doesn't mean it isnt stored in the pcm memory. It needs to be removed correctly which is the problem most people encounter after exhaust mods.

I disable the tests and "No ERROR" all the codes and there are a lot especially on gen5 stuff. Also, you better research the undefined codes in the software to make sure you don't overlook any.

Have you guys tried removing both neg and positive battery cables, connecting the two for a half hour*closing the circuit on itself? If you drain it of all power I dont see how it can retain anything. I would try looping the circuit to completely drain it, and then set those codes to no error before firing it up again. Worth a shot or have you guys tried this route already?

This does not work. I assume the capacitor for the IC where these codes are stored is diode protected. I'm sure eventually I will dissect a 2010+ box to confirm but for now I just know it doesn't work.

Why do you want the permanent codes out of there? If you're in an emissions state, they won't cause your test to fail as long as the CEL isn't on. Unless you just don't want them there, I don't think it will hurt anything to have them on.

That is not the same from state to state.


All this from a re-calibrator not residing in a non-emission testing state.

[thewrx]

So if I understand the scenario with the permanent codes correctly there are only 2 or 3 options for getting rid of the codes. I am not sure if the permanent DTC codes effect the state of the readiness sensors if you have the "SES Enable" checked, but the offending DCT code P#### set to "no error reported."
Would that allow your readiness sensors to show "ready" and thus all 8 Readiness Monitors will be GTG?

Scenario #1 Before you make any changes to your ecu calibration because of some new exhaust mods or whatever changes are made that may trigger DTC's, the offending DTC's are changed to "No Error Reported." In this scenario you or your tuner have to make sure you change the state of all the possible codes that can trigger because you can't go back once they are permanent.

Scenario #2 The permanent codes have triggered for whatever reason either bad part or oversight by tuner to not change all necessary DTC's codes to No Error Reported. You will need get a base tune for your vehicle that is from (hopefully you made a copy from your vehicle before you modded anything) a trusted source and then diff your current tune + the additional DTC's that were changed to no error, and build the base tune into what essentially should be your current tune once completed. Correct?

Scenario #3 You re-mediate the DTC error in question if possibly, by putting your cats back on, or plugging your rear 02's back in, or whatever needs to be done to resolve the error code and the stored error state in the permanent stored codes. This will probably also require a series of drive cycles for all these codes to be clear out and readiness sensors to be all in a "Ready" state.