Ignition Coil Dwell Time is this table available?

[Giannaj]

Hey guys looking for Ignition Coil Dwell Time in v2.24 cant seem to find it. SCT have it and I use it on FGs. Is this going to become available? Really helps when running copper plugs in FGs.

[45T-XR]

Jim,

I know it wasn't present in my BF Strategy in 2.24. But it was available in the 2.25 Beta on mine.

[Giannaj]

Awsome I just downloaded v2.25 Beta so ill have a dig around in it. Just have to wait till the TCM read im running has completed..................

[hiddeous]

What benefits are you finding by adjusting for copper plugs?

[IH8TOADS]

Not available for FG's (F6, XR6T or 5.0 SC). BF all good.

[DarrylC]

Not in all the BFs either. From what I can see just the OS ID for hiddeous, certainly not in HACH3CA. I seem to remember this change also had the p1227 error thresholds and other really useful stuff that would have been nice.

[hymey]

Its in the BAs

[Giannaj]

What benefits are you finding by adjusting for copper plugs?

I find in FGs only when using a copper like BCPR6 or 7 on cruise (1700rpm) a small random misfire/hiccup seems to present. Its very annoying and a few others have told me they also experience the small misfire/hiccup. With Iridium's the misfire is not there regardless of the gap. With SCT I increased the coil dwell time and that eliminated the small misfire/hiccup. In all honesty I like iridium plugs so I have now stuck with them.

[JETURBO]

I can't understand why you would opt for copper plugs ever in a 4.0T over iridium

[hiddeous]

I run coppers. Cannot fault them. They handle larger gaps on E85 much better than iridium. The perception that Iridiums work better is wrong. They are more appealing from a Manufacturers point of view as they last longer.

Compare the electrode size between and iridium plug and a copper...I know which I would like lighting off my e85

[45T-XR]

Yep copper plugs here also. No dramas thus far.

[Giannaj]

I've always run coppers in all my cars Including my own car. With my BF I never had any issues with coppers (BCPR7ES) 35psi with a .6 gap and a voltage booster car made 620rwkw. You may have seen my BF on Facebook and YouTube I go the name JimTuffXR. I'm not new at this but this FG copper plug thing has me stumped.

In regard to Iridiums I think the plugs work as well on Barras as coppers. The Iridiums have sorted This misfire In the new FG runs smoother and makes the same amount of power.

Now in saying all this I had been using an SCT value file from a car we did a while back and I think this is why I may be having the issues with the FGs. SCT gone now and tuning with HPs.

[45T-XR]

The only issue I've had is when I fitted the JMS Spark booster and trying to maintain a gap of .85mm at 23-25 psi down low was blowing the spark out. Initially I bypassed the spark booster on the dyno and gapped the plugs down to .65mm. Issue gone, After speaking with Rob about the Spark booster he mentioned we I needed to disable the repetitive spark which we didn't have access to with HP at the time. I was sceptical as it only works just off idle, cruise etc. Wiki repetitive spark to see how it works. Eric disabled it in my file for me and I regapped my plugs up to .8+ same boost without issue in initial testing. It appears to have worked. The JMS unit steps voltage up a lot higher than the ICE ones, From memory the ICE ones stepped up to a constant voltage of 14v. whereas the JMS switches off a hobb and runs far higher.

[Giannaj]

Thanks mate I'll have a read of repetitive spark. I use the MSD voltage booster. They have a built in map sensor so you can adjust voltage to boost. That worked for me at 35psi.

[45T-XR]

Oh nice! I haven't seen one operate linearly like that. That is mint, I will check them out, are they physically quite large or hide away nicely? One thing that appealed to me about the Herrod/JMS one was it was basically plug/play and mounts nicely under the passenger side dash.

[turbotrana]

I would stick with the JMS unit switched with the hobb switch. I've used the MSD voltage booster with fuel pumps and if you use it with the map sensor the unit is always on and draws heaps of current to the point it will melt even the heavy fuse the manufacturer supplies on the thick heavy load wire.

So I ended up switching it on via the programable ecu in my trana via a relay. So normal driving normal battery voltage and around 2000rpm under boost straight to around 18v to the pump. Much more reliable. No more melted fuses.
The map sensor really only operates from a minimum or about 15v from memory and I think goes to 20.

[hiddeous]

I've been using a Kenne Bell boost a spark for years with no issue. Is also runs a hobbs switch (set a 4psi) and is adjustable from battery voltage up to aprox 18v.

[DarrylC]

I also have an MSD fuel pump voltage booster for my LPG pump fitted over 12 months ago and have not had this issue. The unit is always on but only boosts voltage when the circuit has power so I am wondering if yours is faulty.

[turbotrana]

It may depend on the load you are running with the LPG pump. I was running an 044 and an intank pump and there was enough current draw there to cause me issues. Unit was fine and never gave up tho. I could have made everything heavy duty, i.e relays but I prefer the switched setup. Having an 044 run at the minimum 15v setting was too noisy and simply not needed at idle where you spend most of your time.

[45T-XR]

I'm not planning on changing unless the issue comes back. When I spoke to Herrod, they knew about it straight away, told me what to change and backed up the product so I can't complain. When I get my crap together and back on the dyno will make sure it plays nice. But the nice part is that it is easy to bypass if it has a drama. 2 connectors, gap plugs down and all good if it goes pear shaped.