Why does my car like rich? Lean it KR's

[PWNED]

I have been working and working on this tune and thought I had it as it pulled pretty decent for what it was esp. when 3rd gear came around. This was when I was hitting an 11.0 afr. But as you see it would KR bad! Autolite 103's gapped at .050 didn't even help so I put back in my 104's @ .050. So I had to add 2% of fuel from 9500 up and as you see the KR went down drastically (this was within 15 minutes of the last) so same conditions) but it does seem slower. What can I do now to help? When I was not ICed I tried 11.5 afr but was only able to run 11* timing. Put back in the old tune and was hitting 10.6-10.4 @ 17* virtually KR free on a 3.4. A 3.2 it hated unless I dropped another 2* timing.

Now we are a 3.0 Pulley ICed with a 10.9-10.6 afr @ 18-17*. The wide band is .1-.2 off so subtract that of what you see.

The screen shots are right when it goes into 3rd. Which is my problem area. Guessing the pistons are still getting toasty?

[MMGT1]

I would like you to try your 103's gapped to 45tho, and 42tho respectively(Log both ways and see how she takes it). I have a sneaky suspicion that you are blowing out spark. Would this Regal have the stock coils and wires on it? Never liked aftermarket stuff on these, the factory GM Coils and wires are the way to go, even turbo.
I think your 104's at .042 is going to be your answer in the end, but its just a guess, just might be the culprit though

[PWNED]

I would like you to try your 103's gapped to 45tho, and 42tho respectively(Log both ways and see how she takes it). I have a sneaky suspicion that you are blowing out spark. Would this Regal have the stock coils and wires on it? Never liked aftermarket stuff on these, the factory GM Coils and wires are the way to go, even turbo.
I think your 104's at .042 is going to be your answer in the end, but its just a guess, just might be the culprit though

I am running newer GM wires. Coils are GM as well. Not new. I know these car run best on them as well. I will try the 103s gapped at .045. How will the 104s gapped at .042 benefit over the 103s? Im curious. Will too cold of plug cause KR at this level? I really want to try out the 2.8 pulley but not till i get the KR fixed.

[MMGT1]

I have the train of thought to keep a plug as warm as you can to combat fouling and regulate heat in the heads(You need the heads to absorb this heat efficiently and not exceed what a head can handle). You will know you have the right temp range if you pull your plug and look at the threads, 3-5 threads of discolouration you have a good heat range, only 2 or so and your too cold. Then, logic dictates, if your discolouration extends all the way to the seat the bugger is hotter than hell and needs to be at least 3 points colder, if not more. Really though, the threads are great in determining proper heat ranges. Google "how to read a spark plug" and you'll find lots on this.

[PWNED]

These are my 104's with around 2k on them (hard to tell about the heat range discoloration you speak of) The 103's were used for maybe 30 miles but I put them back in just now gapped at .045

[MMGT1]

Its hard to see the mark on them in that pic, but I think I can safely say the 103 is too cold for your engine. Install the 104's @ .045 and see if the spot reduces or if it changes at all. I would just jump right to the 104's at .042 myself and see how the scans look.

[PWNED]

Its hard to see the mark on them in that pic, but I think I can safely say the 103 is too cold for your engine. Install the 104's @ .045 and see if the spot reduces or if it changes at all. I would just jump right to the 104's at .042 myself and see how the scans look.

At what point could the 103 be acceptable? Should I bother with a few scans with them in now? With it being too cold what effects is it having? With the 104's not showing any color how will I know when it is too hot or cold? I heard that if the porcelain by the electrode is white they are not what you want. If it has discoloration it is just right.

With a plug being too cold or hot are you going to chip a piston faster? The KR in the area when 3rd gear comes around can spark blow out become an issue? Or will it not with the gap being shrunk down.

I plan to drop to a 2.8 pulley sometime soon so I would like to have my ignition side set.

A XP cam + ported heads build will be going in by the summers end hopefully.

[MMGT1]

The 103 is really not showing any signs of heat at all, and your right, a little colour around the electrode is good. If you can look closely at the threads of the plugs, you will see a "blue'ish discolouration" or "heat mark" in them somewhere between the tip and seat. Count the threads from tip to the heat mark. 5 or so threads is good, above too hot, below too cold. Fouling and detonation.... too cold they will foul in no time, too hot your detonating. The heat range of a plug is what sets the head temp and is matted with your cooling system. Gasoline burned at 220*F and a Lambda of 1(14.5-14.7) is what I believe nets the most efficient burn, least amount of particulate waste per pound of fuel(Cant remember exact, its been a while,lol). You need these head temps for evaporation of fuel off the walls and off the valves during its cycle as well. Take a peek at the V8 tuning for fuel and cams, it's crazy how complex this all really is. This colder stat stuff is a little old now, its nice to see more people get that one these days. The colder running engines are just wasting fuel. If you end up seeing you need to run a cold stat to be able to push it, then upgrade the cooling system so it matches the performance of the car.
Your 104 gapped at 42 will not have blow out as a factor. You might want to put an ohms tester on the coils to make sure they are all in good shape.

[PWNED]

The 103 is really not showing any signs of heat at all, and your right, a little colour around the electrode is good. If you can look closely at the threads of the plugs, you will see a "blue'ish discolouration" or "heat mark" in them somewhere between the tip and seat. Count the threads from tip to the heat mark. 5 or so threads is good, above too hot, below too cold. Fouling and detonation.... too cold they will foul in no time, too hot your detonating. The heat range of a plug is what sets the head temp and is matted with your cooling system. Gasoline burned at 220*F and a Lambda of 1(14.5-14.7) is what I believe nets the most efficient burn, least amount of particulate waste per pound of fuel(Cant remember exact, its been a while,lol). You need these head temps for evaporation of fuel off the walls and off the valves during its cycle as well. Take a peek at the V8 tuning for fuel and cams, it's crazy how complex this all really is. This colder stat stuff is a little old now, its nice to see more people get that one these days. The colder running engines are just wasting fuel. If you end up seeing you need to run a cold stat to be able to push it, then upgrade the cooling system so it matches the performance of the car.
Your 104 gapped at 42 will not have blow out as a factor. You might want to put an ohms tester on the coils to make sure they are all in good shape.

I will be swapping the 104's back in after work hopefully. But this morning I did a few pulls on the 103's as seen bleow. No KR when 3rd came around but........it was a HUMID 75* this morning and the car felt slow! It did appear that my AFR's were a bit richer. Can this happen when this type of weather happens?

[PWNED]

In the afternoon I got another scan with no KR again. But the afr's were right around 10.8 vs this morning 10.6. Felt much better considering it was 90* out. How is this possible with he afr change? Again another scan with the 103's @ .045.

[Overkill]

If you're running around 11.0 AFR then you're on the money as far as I'm concerned.

[PWNED]

If you're running around 11.0 AFR then you're on the money as far as I'm concerned.

I agree as well. But I have been paying so much attention to my tune that in the mornings (60-70*) I will be hitting 10.7 AFR. On the way home I am hitting a solid 10.9-11.0 when it is 80-90* out. Like clock work everyday this week. What parameter can I adjust for this? Or is there nothing except lean it out more? Can a spark plug have an effect?

Side note I wish I brought my HPT with me to the track the other day as I was right around 10.8's and when 3rd hit I was buried at 10.2. The only time I have seen it that low. I was also around 10.5-10.6 on the ride home. Today I did RTV the hell out of my ZZP headers crossover as there was a heat streak mark that alerted me of a leak. As seen below so maybe that was the culprit??????? I doubt having a 1/4 tank of 93 and 1 gal of 110 will have an effect.