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Thread: P59 turbo 3 bar and still use MAF?

  1. #1
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    P59 turbo 3 bar and still use MAF?

    I'm doing a 2005 Silverado with a p59 and a pair of gt3582r turbos on a 6.0. Engine has rods and pistons, stage 2 LJMS cam, springs, studs, etc. I would like to consider keeping the stock MAF on the truck for several reasons, mostly due to how I'm aware that everything in the tune is referenced to airflow. I want to try to get the overall drivability as good as possible as well as making good power when it's in boost. I was considering keeping the MAF and have it active, say, up to 3000 RPM and from there and above run only on the MAP sensor. I am hoping to keep fueling and spark as accurate as possible while not worrying about running past the frequency limits of the MAF at higher rpm and during boost. Plans were to use a 2525 MAP and the 3 bar OS upgrade. I also have the Dorman 4th gen intake that I will try, not sure how it will hold up, but we'll see.
    Is there more that I should be thinking about beyond this? I'm not really worried about the MAF being too restrictive, as the stock throttle body is only 76mm. I will be keeping the BOV a good distance from the MAF, and can install it in a nice straight section of tubing between the FMIC and throttle body. Anyone have thoughts?

  2. #2
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    It's possible to keep the MAF sensor on yours. I've kept it functional on a couple of Maggy equipped Silverados with P59's. It just takes a little more time to dial in the MAF.
    What are your performance goals?

  3. #3
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    The limited airflow the MAF will allow before maxing out the hz range would want me to get rid of the MAF. You can make it drive just like it did before on the MAP alone, it's still going to respond to temp changes and other variables even when the MAF is removed.

    The MAF also works in the opposite way as you want too. The dynamic airflow settings are set to include the MAF/MAP up to whatever RPM, then switch to MAF only. Most stock applications is 4,000rpm for the switch over. We can't flip flop the way it's set, so that it use the MAF/MAP to say 4,000 and then run MAP only.

    Even if you goal is sub 10psi for like a 450-500hp truck, I'd still run just the MAP personally.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  4. #4
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    I agree with 5FDP on running the map only for p01 and p59.

  5. #5
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    ^^^What they said
    Daily Driver= 2003 BMW 330xi
    Weekend Cruiser= 2009 Pontiac G8 GT (Vararam, TSP LS3 N/A Stage 1, OBX, CTS-V converter, MagnaFlows w/ J-Pipes, 160 t-stat)
    Project Car= 1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS (LQ4 w/ Gen 4 Rods, LS3 heads, turbo...)
    Truck= 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT LY5 4x4

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    The limited airflow the MAF will allow before maxing out the hz range would want me to get rid of the MAF. You can make it drive just like it did before on the MAP alone, it's still going to respond to temp changes and other variables even when the MAF is removed.

    The MAF also works in the opposite way as you want too. The dynamic airflow settings are set to include the MAF/MAP up to whatever RPM, then switch to MAF only. Most stock applications is 4,000rpm for the switch over. We can't flip flop the way it's set, so that it use the MAF/MAP to say 4,000 and then run MAP only.

    Even if you goal is sub 10psi for like a 450-500hp truck, I'd still run just the MAP personally.
    Ok, well, it seems my understanding of how the MAF is used is incorrect. I had thought the MAF was not used above 4000 in the stock tune, and due to airflow increases, I should limit it's function to maybe 3000. Obviously, they're killing the MAP above 4000. So, I guess my next question might be: What's happening when I "fail the MAF to tune VE"? I set the MAF fail to 200hz, instead of the factory 13,500, basically so it never functions. Is it not possible to fail it at, say, 8000 and keep the MAP functional from 100 to 8000 rpm? I realize that I'd have to log and watch what frequency to fail it at based on boost and rpm, then adjust a cutoff point from there.
    I understand that it's easy to just take it off, and have done that in the past. Just curious if I could keep it functional for everyday driving conditions and have it not influence the tune when I'm beating on it.
    I guess I don't have a power "goal" but it does have a solid foundation for the engine, a big air to air, 1000cc injectors, good fuel pump, etc, so no, I'm not thinking 500hp, hahaha. Trying to learn, that's all. Thanks for the responses, guys.

  7. #7
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    There's really no need to run the MAF on your application. I'd go SD and never look back.