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Thread: 2010 CTSV Tune File

  1. #1
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    2010 CTSV Tune File

    Hello All, Happy New Year!!

    I am new to the board and HP Tuners and would like some of the experts to look at this tune file from my 2010 CTSV. I just recently bought this car and the previous owner had some work done by a well known Performance shop in Detroit. The work done consisted of a 2.55 pulley for the super charger, cold air intake, 160 stat, ported snout and re tuning of the transmission. according to the dyno # it made 556rwhp vs 460 stock. I have been driving this car a lot when weather permits however I have noticed a couple things that doesn't seem right.

    hitting the rev limiter from 3rd to 4th in sport mode at wide open throttle the first time through the gears out of park.

    Also has intermittently cut boost to roughly 8 pounds at wide open throttle during long pulls beyond 3rd gear.

    see attached tune and any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

    [ATTACH]55578[/ATTACH
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by careys; 01-08-2016 at 07:04 AM.

  2. #2
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    I am assuming that nothing looks out of line with the tune? Any feedback would be appreciated.

  3. #3
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    Do you have a log of the issues you mentioned? It is typically much easier to determine problem spots in the tune with a log (helps sort the forest from the trees).

  4. #4
    Go to your Oncoming Pressure presets and on 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 bump up 100KPA on all cells
    On 1-2SP, 2-3SP, and 3-4SP bump up all cells 150KPA.
    Flash file and then with the scanner
    On trans tab do a Adaptive Preset then Reset
    And go drive the car
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  5. #5
    They disabled VE to run MAF only, bumped up your timing down low, copied high octane to low octane and took out a couple degrees up top (dangerous), removed TQ management, raped the PE table, bumped WOT shift rpm from 5800 to 6250, and changed the cooling fans to come on sooner.

    Change your 3rd to 4th WOT shift speed to 91 MPH
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  6. #6
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    Hi Z06-Hammer, Speedmaster747

    Thank You both for your reply we in Michigan just got good enough weather to go out and make some passes and I have attached the data log file below and being new to HP Tuners I didn't log AF ratio however I see some strange things going on with the timing, can you guys comment on this? From the comments from Z06-Hammer I would assume I should take this car or send the files to an expert to have them clean this up.

    thanks for any feedback on the data logs.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  7. #7
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    Log knock retard and burst knock retard

  8. #8
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    yes I have added this to the data log and will do again tomorrow but after further review of the files I have noticed something and maybe its related to why you have asked me to log the above but as you see in the data log 6,068 you will see the MAF and Timing drop at the same time and then right after my boost dropped from 13 to 8 psi but expected as the boost solenoid control went from 99% to 62% and never recovered after that.

  9. #9
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    The timing drops off a few times where I'd expect it to be pretty steady.. made me wonder if it was from knock. The timing table is a bit rough so that may be part of the problem too
    Post a log and tune if you want help

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  10. #10
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    thanks I will do some more logging tomorrow, this car was tuned by a reputable performance shop here in Michigan and somewhat surprised to hear the comments on how shady the tune looks however I think I will take it to LF in Wixom Michigan and have them dyno tune the car and sort these problems out. thanks for your help I really appreciate your feedback!

  11. #11
    I would also log injector duty cycle.
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  12. #12
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    Geez, I'm disappointed in my fellow HPT guys. 65 people downloaded his tune but only 3 people looked at the log. Really? To me that says most people on here just want to look at a "reputable shop's" tune. From the looks of the log, I hope none of the 65 people actually use anything from that tune.

    I looked at the log before I look at the tune. I actually didn't even look at the tune file yet. I wanted to post right away for two reasons. First is I'll attach a layout file for you to use since you're missing a bunch of vital parameters. Second is to give you a warning. BE VERY CAREFUL! I personally would avoid doing any WOT runs until you get this tune straightened out. The things in the log that make me say that are the fuel mixtures, both before and during the WOT pull. Also the boost drop, why? Is the ECM trying to save your engine? Probably. And the O2 readings, I don't like those either. Lastly there's the manifold temps, holy cr@p you went from 95 degrees to 172 degrees in that pull on a 60 degree day? YIKES! Oh, I almost forgot the redline, 6500rpm? There's no reason for that added amount of stress which btw is exponential and WAY more stress than 6200rpm. This is why modified engines have a tendency to not live very long. It's not the modifications, it's the way they're made to run.

    Don't mean to scare you, just trying to save you from killing a $13k engine. Give me a couple minutes and I'll post some layout files. I posted some good LSA layouts here elsewhere but I want to make sure you have fuel pressure logged. I'm not sure I included those in the layouts I posted.


    This thread has some layout files, use the one's I just posted.

    http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...530#post424530
    Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 03-27-2016 at 11:47 AM.
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  13. #13
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    ^^^^ Yes you most likely have an intercooler or leak of some sort causing an air pocket issue. Your iat's are going almost to ect levels resulting in some serious timing pulls and knock possibilities... Timing's not horrible in the tune - just looked at the high octane table / SO can't be 100% on that statement - BUT it actually looks safe if your anything around 12 to 14 psi of boost as long as you've got a cam that will lower your dynamic compression and headers - if not then it should probably be pulled back at least 3 degrees...

    Get the air pocket in the cooler fixed before doing anything... There should be an intercooler pump relay in the under hood fuse block that you can jumper - cycle the pump and let run for a few minutes each time you top off the system. Once you stop seeing the level drop or stop seeing bubbles if you have a remote tank, then it should be bleed... If you do have a remote tank then fill it to the brim while the pump is running and stick the cap back on - assures all air stays out...
    Last edited by GHuggins; 03-27-2016 at 01:02 PM.
    2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
    2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80

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  14. #14
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    Thank you very much for your input and observations. I knew something was up and new to HP Tuners and tuning I am just learning so I really appreciate your help.

    I will look at your files you sent and incorporate this data into our data log, I guess my question to you do you tune cars remotely and can you sort this tune out if I provide you the correct data?

    I have no problem paying for this work I just want it right as you said I don't want to spend 13k for another engine.

    This is very disappointing that a reputable shop did this work.

  15. #15
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    We did see the IAT were very hot and found that the system was empty and pump was running, checked via snap on scanner and turned on then found system was empty. Filled and bled the system and level seems to be holding however I will pull the kid and see if the bricks are leaking.

    I can send you the files that showed the IAT was getting to 200f prior to us finding the system was empty but still questioned why the system still heated up on one pull on a 60 degree day. I have a ZR1 and logged it and it never increased like this car did.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by careys View Post
    We did see the IAT were very hot and found that the system was empty and pump was running, checked via snap on scanner and turned on then found system was empty. Filled and bled the system and level seems to be holding however I will pull the kid and see if the bricks are leaking.

    I can send you the files that showed the IAT was getting to 200f prior to us finding the system was empty but still questioned why the system still heated up on one pull on a 60 degree day. I have a ZR1 and logged it and it never increased like this car did.
    If I'm reading this correctly, the above log is after bleeding? These systems will get hot, but not this hot - ie still air in there somewhere. Keep bleeding... I typically don't see over 110 F on a hot day running these things hard, but we typically install little better coolers and remote resevoirs. Even so it still shouldn't be hitting 150 or better...
    2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
    2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80

    ~Greg Huggins~
    Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
    Mobile Tuning Available for North Georgia and WNC

  17. #17
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    Yes you have read this correctly so I will bleed it some more my concern the system was completely empty when we realized the temps were out of control. Who do you recommend to sort this tune out?

  18. #18
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    Is it possible to use a vacuum filler on the intercooler like can be done on the cooling system? Those things are awesome at getting air pockets out.. or ensuring there are none in first case