Zero it out. That will engage adaptive idle PID (or airflow) control immediately. Adaptive idle spark is always engaged, once idle conditions are satisfied.
Zero it out. That will engage adaptive idle PID (or airflow) control immediately. Adaptive idle spark is always engaged, once idle conditions are satisfied.
no..gfo the other way....make it longer....
I set then to much lnger times and Idle is way more stable...
adaptve idle causes your idle to be spark jumpy and IAC jumpy...
the less movement you can get out of teh spark the better and the less drastic monements from IAC the better
the way I understand it is that teh adaptive Idle tries to move teh IAC and when IAC cant keep up it moves spark...but IAC is still comanded to get to a certain spot.so it does..which is now too far and its overshot..so it correct teh other way..and overshoots again..back and forth back and forth...
change the update time to like 400 seconds and see what a difference it makes...
on many many cars I dont even touch the adaptive idle...
TREX cam in a an LS1 Camaro....Idles at 800 with nothing more than AFR being correct at idle and 27-28*ish spark at idle and RAF being correct..no changes to the Adaptive idle stuff from stock
lopey cams have more rpm change by nature..so increase the update rpm error max to a higher #... or change teh time to a higher #
this guarantees that it kicks on when it really needs it not when it sees a normal rpm drop when the valve events overlap
-Scott -
Soundengineer, Idle Spark Advance-> 27-28* in "In Park" or "In Drive"?
Under the Idle RPM Tab, on my '98 I see Proportional->Enable RPM Error which is set at 60 rpm. And I see Integral->Enable RPM Error which is set at 50 rpm. Is this where you're saying to increase the value?
I'm wondering if I need to change the LTFT MAP Boundaries. Currently set at Low Range-37, Mid Range-57 and High Range-77.
Thanks
Last edited by 98A4LS1; 06-28-2006 at 05:42 PM.
1998 Z28 Red/Gray HT, A4, 3.23
|Pacesetter, Hooker ORYP, Aerochamber|TSP Cam, PRC dual valve spring kit, LS2 timing chain|LS6 oil pump,|SLP Air Lid, P&P TB, FRA, TBB|Fuddle 3400 2.1, B&M cooler|GM iridium plugs, Taylor 8 mm|AMW catch can|J&M PHB & LCA's|HPTuners 2.1|HP House & Dyno Shop
No. Soundengineer is talking about the adaptive idle delay time. I dont see any need to change the LTFT boundaries.
Try both Soundengineers approach and mine. See what works best for you.
Ultimately, I prefer things to be in balance - both airflow and spark - but if you have an angry cam to tune it may well need different measures to bring it under control.
Thanks guys for your help. I'll try the Adaptive Idle Startup PID delay set to "0" seconds.
Just to clarify, are you saying to change the Base Idle spark "In Park" to the values in Base Spark "In Drive"? In Drive is 26-28* and In Park is 18-21*.
1998 Z28 Red/Gray HT, A4, 3.23
|Pacesetter, Hooker ORYP, Aerochamber|TSP Cam, PRC dual valve spring kit, LS2 timing chain|LS6 oil pump,|SLP Air Lid, P&P TB, FRA, TBB|Fuddle 3400 2.1, B&M cooler|GM iridium plugs, Taylor 8 mm|AMW catch can|J&M PHB & LCA's|HPTuners 2.1|HP House & Dyno Shop
Well, Adaptive Idle Startup PID delay set to "0" seconds did not work. Back to the drawing board.
1998 Z28 Red/Gray HT, A4, 3.23
|Pacesetter, Hooker ORYP, Aerochamber|TSP Cam, PRC dual valve spring kit, LS2 timing chain|LS6 oil pump,|SLP Air Lid, P&P TB, FRA, TBB|Fuddle 3400 2.1, B&M cooler|GM iridium plugs, Taylor 8 mm|AMW catch can|J&M PHB & LCA's|HPTuners 2.1|HP House & Dyno Shop
Wioth those tables, base spark in drive and idle for idle, i just copy over my main spark tables.
Ok, I have done this and it seems to be working, I have my idle AFR around 16.5 which seems to work well with my cam (G5X3 on a 112lsa). I am a bit confused about the "open loop" though. I look at the cloed loop status bit and it does not change from on to off. Is the car really running closed loop or is it running in pe which is very similuar to open loop? I ask because I am now throwing a code for bank 1 and 2 o2 low votlage. I know I can turn these codes off but I would think if I we actually in open loop these codes would not get thrown. Do you guys have any input?
-Ken
Bets way to determine this is to check the O2 sensors. If they are oscillating at idle with that cam then you are likely still in closed loop. They should flatline if you are leaner than stoich.
I am definently in PE but PE does not set the open loop fueling status bit as far as I can tell. My air fuel with the widenband is reading 16.5 (or close to it). I was just curious, I don't know why I throw the codes but I'll figure it out.
I have a stalled auto also and have a fair idle in CL, I think it might be better in OL with no O2 imput, strickly off the VE, my question is why do you recomend modifying the VE and MAF by your "sweet spot" if they are done with a WB? and really dont understand doing the MAF, if you are in OL isn't there no MAF or O2 imput, I really like the idea, just trying to understand.
2002 WS-6, Built A-4, 3000 stall, Lid and K&N, ported TB, 220/224, .551, 114 LSA, roller rockers, LT's, 2.5" true duals with X-pipe, Koni adjustable front and Bilstein rears with Hotchkis springs, front bar and bushings, welded SFC's, boxed LCA's., Midnight Blue trimmed in silver, silver face gauges, custom hood bird, HPT (with lot's of tuning)
"and really dont understand doing the MAF, if you are in OL isn't there no MAF or O2 imput, I really like the idea, just trying to understand."
You can run OLSD or OLMAF. Open loop doesn't mean no MAF in and of itself.
You can also run CLSD and CLMAF.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...t=engine+modes
Good link, had not read that one, thanks 00000D0101
2002 WS-6, Built A-4, 3000 stall, Lid and K&N, ported TB, 220/224, .551, 114 LSA, roller rockers, LT's, 2.5" true duals with X-pipe, Koni adjustable front and Bilstein rears with Hotchkis springs, front bar and bushings, welded SFC's, boxed LCA's., Midnight Blue trimmed in silver, silver face gauges, custom hood bird, HPT (with lot's of tuning)
Good to know what parameters you have to work with eh?
Would still like to know the thought and theory behind changing tables tuned with a wideband,...just want to understand the whole picture.
2002 WS-6, Built A-4, 3000 stall, Lid and K&N, ported TB, 220/224, .551, 114 LSA, roller rockers, LT's, 2.5" true duals with X-pipe, Koni adjustable front and Bilstein rears with Hotchkis springs, front bar and bushings, welded SFC's, boxed LCA's., Midnight Blue trimmed in silver, silver face gauges, custom hood bird, HPT (with lot's of tuning)
I made all these changes and I can't get the car into closed loop at all, why would this be? Have you guys that made this changed logged to see if you ever go into closed loop when cruising?
ok after making the changes I am getting p0131 and p0151 codes low voltage to my 02's hmmmmmmm
found another thread where MNR says to disable these codes so it must be somewhat normal to get them after trying this.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...ighlight=p0131
I got it to work, its pretty awesome, no more surging, what I did find though is that you can't trust the closed loop status bit, When I was at idle my fuel trims all stayed at 0 which made sense because they won't learn since I'm in open loop yet the status bit said I was in closed. As soon as I went above 1200 rpm bam stft's started bouncing all around. Finally I think I might have this thing idling how I want it!!
Reset your fuel trims after confgiuring for open loop. Yes, the STFTs will bounce around, but they won't do anything. The STFTs shown in the scanner appear to be just that - a scanner value.
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