Do you have a wideband to confirm it's lean?
Because that thing is trying to command a 10.0 AFR at WOT. I don't think it's lean at all, but too rich and could use some more work to make it better.
Do you have a wideband to confirm it's lean?
Because that thing is trying to command a 10.0 AFR at WOT. I don't think it's lean at all, but too rich and could use some more work to make it better.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Closed loop fuel trims and WOT AFR are two entirely separate things. You should also know that it isn't "lean". It's having to SUBTRACT 12% fuel just to get it to NOT run rich.. A lot of people mix up positive/negative fuel trims. Positive means it is running lean and the ECM is having to ADD fuel. Negative mean it's running rich and compute is having to SUBTRACT fuelOriginally Posted by MadMan
During closed loop it's running right around stoich, just like it should... the computer is having to subtract fuel to make that happen though.
Without a wideband you don't know what your WOT AFR is.. BUT, the factory O2 sensors are at 950-965mV... which is typically REALLY rich. Get a WB on it. If something is wrong it's likely because it's too rich, not too lean.
Post a log and tune if you want help
VCM Suite V3+ GETTING STARTED THREADS / HOW TO's
Tuner by night
CPX Tuning
2005 Corvette, M6
ECS 1500 Supercharger
AlkyControl Meth, Monster LT1-S Twin, NT05R's
ID1000's, 220/240, .598/.598, 118 from Cam Motion
2007 Escalade, A6
Stock
No WB yet but that's next on my shopping list. Right now I'm tickled pink it's not lean like I assumed with the 950-965mv readings. Any recommendations of a good WB to tune with? Thanks for the help!
PLX gen 4 4.9 has been good to me for going on a year now of being used almost daily
AEM has a new wideband out that plugs into the OBD port along with HP Tuners. It's one of the fastest out right now but I haven't tried one yet. That will be the next one I buy though
I would suggest one of those two.
Thanks man. I appreciate it.
Last edited by MadMan; 06-07-2016 at 02:06 AM.
i cant really tell much from the log, pretty short. the only thing i see is your pretty rich at first fire up (don't see commanded logged though so cant tell what she's asking for and i know im rich on first fire up in OL but not 10.0 AFR usually around 12.5 AFR) and your STFT's start taking fuel out pretty quickly before O2s even began to oscillate. i do see you had some quick throttle stabs and looks like it was about to die...im seeing like 400 RPM. im also not seeing your idle adaptive spark advance so cant tell if spark is being added or taken away to compensate.
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
wow, you're right...not what the log should be. That should have been a 45 minute drive...looks more like the first minute. Never had that happen before. Anyway, heres the cold start and run before that...it should have a section toward the end where my analog afr readout showed massive swings in afr which lead to bucking and me stopping to undo some changes and then adding 5% more to VE. That seemed to work quite well with only a slight tendancy to buck below 1100 rpm in 5-6 gear and hoorah! no MAP code. So to be clear the tune I posted is was run after this log. My biggest concern is I'm seeing command afr be 1-2.0 below WB so its not richening at part throttle.
'06 BOM M6 Widebody RA6 GTO
Trick Flow 550 kit( 225 heads, Track Max cam, springs, chain etc)
ARH longtube , MBS HiFlow cats, Corsa Touring X-pipe SS exhaust
Wilson FAST 92mm manifold #42 DeatschWerks Injectors soon
Vararam Intake Duspeed not installed yet
B&M shifter 3.91 rear,Monster level 4 Harrop diff cover
CTS-V V2 brakes BC BR coilovers Whiteline everything
DSS AH axles, Spohn LC arms, Toe Bar
CCW 505a 10.5x19, 12.5x20 Nitto Invo 285& 345
SCSS oil & afr Innovate LC2
[QUOTE=JBZ;434694]Sounds like the fella either copied somebody else's tables and pasted them into his tune files or uses alot of the same information from one of his previous calibrations and carries it over to what he does now.doesnt touch our transmissions and I am very happy with my transmission tune.
QUOTE]
lucky you. I got screwed in the trans department from that guy. I did not get the same trans tune that you did...guess my $750.00 was not enough to mess with the trans...LOL I checked your tune out and both you and insomniac got better trans tuning then I did albeit not the same. I have since modified it and its better now but what I got wasn't much. kind of weird that some are getting a lot and some are not.
as for the 9 in the picture below...only my tune file had that, my stock file did not. every tune from him has had it...like GM tech said, think its his signature
Not that it's horrible to start off with some known good information that you've worked yourself, but it almost looks like this dude might not look closely at what he's working with!
Southwest Speed LLC
5116 Industrial Park Loop NE
Rio Rancho, NM 87124
505-554-9898
https://www.facebook.com/southwestspeed/
http://www.southwestspeed.net
he uses what he's done before as a starting point...I know for a fact because he told me that my tune would become the new base file for vehicles with similar mods to mine...and there is no problem with that. the problem is he doesn't take enough time to fix what is not right with the tune. I had a laundry list of small problems that I needed fixed and all but one were ignored and (the most important) my KR was addressed by knocking 2 degrees of timing off my entire HO timing table. there is no street driving either which all people should do (in my opinion even if its a 20 minute jot around town with a couple WOT pulls and sustained cruising) to see how it performs out on the street opposed to a controlled environment...every problem I had was exacerbated under real world conditions.
I infact was wrong about the 600's being in my factory tune...that is there. I should go back to my earlier post and revise it. I have since put those back in as HPT specifies not to modify this table. I can guarantee this though SilverV, insomniac and I all had our tunes done by the same person and we all have similar issues...some worse then others. there are other personal issue with this tuner such as lack of attention to our problems, lack of response or concern for our problems and in the end of the day its best for me to do it myself.
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
I cannot get my truck to idle using all the recommended techniques. I have a 5.3 LMG engine flex fuel, deleted DOD, Stage 2 truck cam, ported TB. It starts with a factory tune but wont idle longer than a few seconds, even feathering the pedal. I have tried so many different things to get an idle...I do not have a wideband which I know is on my wish list but getting this truck running without a wideband shouldn't be impossible, right? I checked and cleaned the spark plugs a day or so after trying with different tables and the plugs were sooted and partially wet. I tried increasing my idle airflow as well as advance the timing. I do not know what is causing the truck to not stay at idle. My log and tune are below. If anyone can make sense of this, I am not an experienced tuner so this is confusing to say the very least.
Last edited by WickedAvalanche; 04-06-2020 at 10:21 AM.
Why did you apply the 2 bar speed density OS to your truck??
Are you going to run boost or not?
This 2 bar OS gave you 3 new VE tables that come with zero data in them. So because these tables are blank, there is no fuel to be given. These tables are under the airflow tab called Normal IMRC Open/closed and VE DoD.
If there is zero plans to run boost you need to flash this computer with a write entire back to the stock calibration and make any changes to that file moving forward.
Last edited by 5FDP; 04-06-2020 at 03:34 PM.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
How can I revert back to old OS? my backup file had the 2bar applied.
here is the updated log, much closer thanks to all that helped. Any other guidance would be gladly appreciated. Thank you
2007 Chevy Avalanche LT 4x4
Rough Country 7.5 Lift
Engine:2 Bar LC9 5.3L Flexfuel DOD delete
Volant Cold Air System, Ported Throttle Body, Jet PowrStat 180
Summit Stage 2(8701) Cam
Stock bottom-end
Longtube headers, Cat-less y-pipe
Trans: Mad Dog L3 4L70E
Please look at my last log to see if you see anything weird. Here is a list of my mods. Tune was done remote and I know this is an old thread but I found it trying to research a problem I am currently having. Really appreciate any info as to what could be wrong in any of this. I am very new to the whole car scene and got a used ZL1 with 30k miles in great stock condition. After driving it for a while I decided I wanted to wake it up a little. All maintenance was done and proper fluids used
2015 Chevy Camaro ZL1 6.2l LSA 6 speed manual
18 percent lower pulley w relocation bracket and belt
1 7/8 stainless kooks LT w/cats
Rotofab cold air intake standard size red filter
174 degree gym thermostat
ID-1050x 1260cc@4bar shorty injectors
TR7IX iridium plugs
Oil catch can
JMS fuel pump voltage booster
lS black plug wire set
LS3 90mm ported throttle body
Aem wideband gauge
94 octane which is done by adding torco to 90 octane gas
Attachment 122126last log with problems.hpl
2015 Camaro ZL1
looks a little lean to me. you may want to get a more experienced tuner to verify that but your o2 sensor on bank 2 looks a little lazy.
Thank for looking. Cylinder 8 on bank 2 by chance?
2015 Camaro ZL1
Not sure if it is cylinder specific, but just looking at the short-term fuel trims and wideband reading indicates it's a little lean. If you look at your o2 readings in your log, it should keep a similar pace with bank 1. Not exact since its always switching but a little closer than what it is. If this is a boosted setup using the double stoich settings, id definitely have someone else take a look.
Damn! One of my old threads rose from the dead! So I figured I would too. lol. Hi guys!!!!!!
I got an email from Attempt2 asking for help so I replied to his email and figured I'd post what I wrote to him here...
"Ok xxxx I took a quick look.
Yikes.
Sorry but this one I can't blame on the tune, except for maybe the rev limit being too high. But even that, you as the driver should know it shouldn't have been run that high. The difference in engine loads between 6,200 and the 6,900 max I saw in your log is exponentially higher. Especially with a blower being spun 18% faster. The boost levels are 15.7psi at almost 7k rpm, that's a lot.
The tune doesn't look great, but I don't think it directly killed your motor. I'm guessing you spun a bearing? Either that or broke a ring. What killed it was that 4th gear pull. That's something I wouldn't do with an engine set up like that. 3rd, ok. But not 4th. I like having data from a wide range of rpm but starting in 4th gear at 2k rpm with that kind of boost is pretty brutal. That was a 15 second pull, even that's a lot. Being on gas, even 91 octane, the ignition timing is really low for the engine to be running efficiently. So that creates a ton of heat in the cylinders. At that power level you really should have been on E85. And I'm also not sure I believe your wideband, it seems to be reading low compared to the narrowbands. There's a lot of info missing in that log so I'm only guessing on some of this. I have no idea what the knock was really doing without seeing if the calibrations were changed in the tune. Seems a little strange to log almost NO knock.
So to sum up MY opinion on this without having very much info, I'm sorry but you were too rough on your motor and hurt it. Too much boost for the fuel and putting excessive low and high rpm load on an inefficiently set up engine hurt it.
Let me know what actually happened and what your tuner said. Sorry you have to deal with a broken engine, that's unfortunate. I absolutely hate that ?pay to play? phrase but you just found out the risks of owning a modified vehicle and pushing it for too long, in too tall of a gear from 50 to 144mph.
John"
Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 07-07-2022 at 02:28 PM.
Check out my V8 Sky build video. It's pretty cool!...
https://youtu.be/2q9BuzNRc3Q
https://www.youtube.com/user/gmtech16450yz
My second email reply, not much more that can be said on this one...
"The max rpm in that tune was set at 6,900-6,950 with a hysteresis of 125rpm. The max I saw in your log was over 6,900. I would not have set it any higher than stock personally, especially with boost that high. If anything the redline should be set LOWER with that much boost. But that's not what tuners do because that doesn't get them the big dyno numbers which is all they, and their customers want. All you have to do to get higher dyno numbers is to raise the rpm limit.
Not much more I can tell you other than what I said. The tune doesn't look great, lots of weird changes, but as far as the log results show, the engine was just pushed too hard for the setup. E85 would have REALLY helped that motor. More fuel for cylinder cooling and way more ignition timing would have helped it run cooler also. Not to mention the WOT time would have been shorter with a more efficient, stronger motor. Pump gas, even with octane modifiers is dangerous at those power levels.
It is what it is, I don't think there's any point in pushing blame anywhere. After all, these "Tuners" aren't regulated in any way, and they're literally breaking the law with every tune they sell. It's kind of like overdosing on drugs you bought off the street, it's a risk that shouldn't be a surprise. There's no oversight and pretty much no consequences in the aftermarket tuning world. And on the customer's/car owner's end, the learning curve can be very steep and expensive. You took risks. It cost you money in damaged hardware. Be VERY thankful it didn't cost you your life or take someone else's. After all, I doubt you were doing 144 on a closed course. Take it as a learning experience that luckily only cost you some money and inconvenience.
John
(I copied/pasted my email to you and put it in my hptuners thread. I did that for the express reason that it's educational information that others could benefit from. Knowledge is power.)"
Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 07-07-2022 at 02:05 PM.
Check out my V8 Sky build video. It's pretty cool!...
https://youtu.be/2q9BuzNRc3Q
https://www.youtube.com/user/gmtech16450yz
I have a Cobra that I've just finished building over a 2 and half year period. I've done 99% of the build myself. The engine is an L77 out of a donor SSV Commodore and 6 speed Tremec. I did the DOD delete using a Sloppy stage 2 cam. It has MAF delete, but now has an IAT sensor. The ecu is an E38 that came from the donor vehicle. I had some initial trouble with codes from the pedal and throttle body, but both have been replaced with new genuine parts. The car starts and idles fine, but I have minimal throttle response and it won't rev above around 1600rpm. I am ready to get engineering and registration if I can get it drivable. I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. Can any of you good people please take a look at my log and tune and tell me what I'm doing wrong please?
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