Working on a 2012 mustang with 3.7. Motor was just rebuilt. Ever since the first fire up we are getting the p0018, 19 and 21 codes.
No previous issue with these codes before motor was done.
Have read several things that point to the cam solenoid sensors.
Seems odd that these codes come out of nowhere.
Checked for pinched harness, set vtc settings to stock, did crank relearn, still getting codes.
Any input would be helpful.
Thanks.
Here's a few links to the Ford Service Manuals.
This is Section 4, it lists possible causes for every code a car code throw.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=506&viewfil...scriptions.pdf
Once you look through Section 4, you can find the different "pinpoint tests" for the 3.7 Mustang here.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=508
Looking really quick here, for p0019 you would go to pinpoint test HK. For some reason the 3.7 pinpoint tests won't load on my laptop, maybe they will work on your end. Hopefully this will help.
Appreciate it. I will check it out.Originally Posted by AKDMB
Edit: I was able to find the HK pinpoint test on All data.
Thanks!
Last edited by jpb1972; 04-17-2016 at 07:46 PM.
Timed incorrectly is most likely outcome
Cam timing was checked and everything is lined up. This was the first thing that was done.
Next thing to do then is jumper power and ground to the VCT solenoids to see if you hear them click. If they all click, remove the valve covers and inspected the solenoids for debris on the screens. I have had aftermarket oil filters break down and plug the screens on them. If the motor was just rebuild, possibly debris in engine could plug them.... However, I know you said timing was checked, but you have cam timing correlation codes on both banks, the common denominator for both banks is the timing chain. Was the chain replaced when engine was rebuilt?
Codes only point towards bank 2.
Sorry, saw the 2012, and brain said P0012
Was the timing chain replaced? The 3.5Ls had a bad run of chains that will stretch and cause correlation codes. You can inspect the tensioner for the chain to see if it is excessively extended.
It's a 3.7. But the car has less than 20k on it.
3.7 and 3.5 have similar timing drive, so it is reasonable that they could have a similar chain stretch issue.
This still all sounds like incorrectly timed. When the front cover was pulled off to inspect timing. How did you go about verifying it? Did you re-installed the camshaft holding tools, and count the links? Its very easy for one bank of cams to be timed incorrectly even if the timing chain lines up, because there is not keyway for the cam gear. If the bolt allowed the cam gear to slip on the camshaft, it would have these faults. If the proper camshaft holding tools were not used when timing the engine, you will have these faults. If the timing chain is even 1/2 link off on one bank you will have these faults. .. If you did not install the cam holding tools when going back in and checking your timing marks, you did not check it correctly.
Thanks for the info! Have some more investigating to do. Lol
Here is a log that was taken since the code issue. Would the car even run right if these numbers were true? The car runs good and idles very good.
Also, if the codes are reset and the car is restarted, the codes will not come on until the car is shut off again and fired up a second time. Only then does the car have a brief hesitation and the codes pop on.
Last edited by jpb1972; 04-20-2016 at 05:59 PM.
Based on what I know about the ghost cam tunes, the car would be loping like a mother if those values were correct.
I don't see how or why it would be running so good if these two cams were that far off.
Next step is replacing the two solenoids on that bank. See what happens.
Yes it will run, remember that is crank degrees. Did you verify timing with the camshaft holding tools in place?
Yes, but would it run exceptionally smooth like it is? I don't think so. And no, didn't check with the cam tool. Both solenoids were already ordered so we're going to try them and see what changes, if anything. Then we will get the proper tool and look at mechanical timing.
You'd be very surprised at how well they run with 1 bank of cams off time.
So if you don't have the cam tool, how did you ever check proper timing in the first place, like you said in your earlier post? The cams have no keyways at all, so simply checking the gear orientation tells you nothing about if the cams are in the correct place.
Since you are pulling the valve cover for the solenoids, pull both valve covers and get the cam tools. If you line up one back and slide the cam tool in, and the other bank the tool doesn't fit because the cams are not lined up with the groves in the tool, then the cams are not properly timed.
The original builder did it. But I get what your saying.
Is it possible the cam sensors electrical connectors being plugged into the wrong sensor?
Some how swapped the connections between the intake cam sensor/exhaust cam sensor?
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