Look in the trans tab.
Look in the trans tab.
Procrastinated on this and finally went through the steps and this write up made it easy! Took me about an hour only
Hello,
i am wondering if someone could help me out with my idle issue.
2007 Silverado e38
sloppy stage 2 cam
full e85
ive been trying to follow the thread, but i cant seem to get the idle to come up to my target of 900 rpm.
im at 28 degrees advance and 20g of air.
im also still having a minor fluctuation in the TPS, even though i think i have turned off all the followers.
being that im on E, i know ill need more timing. should i just keep adding it until i can get it to come up?
i started at 20 degrees and have been increasing it and the rpms do come up some, but not enough so far.
should i lower my idle target?
thank you very much for your help!!
Oh my. You'd be better off with the OE Spark tables. The factory strategy actually commands lower spark advance values at part throttle on E85, as compared to gas. It only adds timing when under a load (mainly near WOT.)Originally Posted by thedbaz
Make these changes and it'll help you get the idle sorted out...
1. Command 20 degrees timing at idle. (Don't forget to change your Idle Spark Advance Base table as well as the LO and HO Spark tables.
2. Go to Idle, Airflow, Effective Area, and change the Max Fail to 8191.
3. Go to Engine Diag. Click on the Airflow Tab. Change the Test ERT Min to 0. Change the Test Enable Delay to 0. Change the P0068 Enable RPM to 8000. Change the P0101, P0106, P0121 Min ECT to 255 F.
4. Go to the Engine Diag. Click on the DTC tab. Change P0101, P0102, and P0103 to MIL on First Error.
28 deg is too much for idle these engines dont need heaps, 15 to early 20's is heaps, change the ecm 2175 from 60 to 200, when u go mafless u have to adjust that, also ur not failed to SD properly so that will cause issues, i made some changes for SD but set the rest back to stock like the torque follower and adaptive so it can idle, its not going to raise the rpm using spark alone u need airflow and u have that disabled
thanks!! I'm using the 2 Bar OS from HPT that is SD only and doesn't use a MAF, or at least that was my understanding. so there are still things that need to be cancelled out for that? HPT doesn't fail them out correctly by default?
thanks!!
is there a difference between setting this " Go to Idle, Airflow, Effective Area, and change the Max Fail" to 8191 instead of 200 like 07GTS suggested?
i lowered all the timing tables back to 20 degrees and will see what happens now.
the 2 bar OS still uses maf if u want so it all has to be failed like normal going SD, ur stoich is not right either are u trying to scale it more ? also u have flex enabled but not setup right with diag and dtc's are u running flex sensor ? if tune isnt scaled right then flex will be thrown out when it shifts stoich, setting the max fail to 200 should be fine or any higher is fine its just a limit to the throttle blade when maf failed for idle
great thanks!!
staich was scaled using a factor of 2.18 due to injector size.
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...rn-Fuel-System
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...ark-Axis-Scale
yes i have a flex sensor installed.
the DTCs i see are P0178 and P0179. i turned those onto MIL on second error.
attached is where i ended at last night.
800 rpm
15 degrees
18g
in drive the log still shows 21g though.
my error rate is pretty low on the rpm when in drive and within the window described in the thread.
however when im in park or neutral, its all over the place wildly oscillating.
im not sure how to correct that issue.
thank you very much for your help!!!
is anyone able to share what these 3 CTSV settings are??
Set proportional airflow back to stock, optionally use the settings from a CTSV (they are pretty good from the factory). Integral still uses these values in the PI equation, that is why you need to populate them back.
Set integral airflow limits back to stock, or optionally use the 2010 CTSV settings
Set integral airflow back to stock or optionally use the 2010 CTSV settings.
thanks!!
Open a tune file. Hit CTRL+N. Type in 'proportional' (or whatever keyword you are looking for).
why didnt u just use double/half injector flow rate ? 56.8 fits in the IFR and then its much easier for scaling, dont put the one value in the main spark it will not drive right put that back to stock if it suits boost, fueling needs to be right before u can dial in idle as it affects it and the values
Interesting thread, I may have missed it but I did not see mentioned the most important aspect of idle, or all, tuning and that is to first have the VE, VVE and MAF dialled in so the airflow is correct. Personally for Gen 4 I like to retain the MAF and tune both VVE and MAF, doing so provides the most accurate dynamic air which significantly improves idle control. This is the most important tune requirement otherwise you are "fixing" a problem that may not exist or has been created as a result of poor tuning practice.
A whole lot of idle control in the VE table
2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80
~Greg Huggins~
Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
Mobile Tuning Available for North Georgia and WNC
Its a good way too mess up idle anyway.A whole lot of idle control in the VE table
Especially with cams - too rich or lean and she's either surging or just killing over...
2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80
~Greg Huggins~
Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
Mobile Tuning Available for North Georgia and WNC
Yep for sure, stock VVE with a MAF hack
Can anyone take a look at this and see if anything sticks out. 2012 zl1 camaro with a 416. car makes great power drives smooth and idle great except when car is moving. When coasting no matter the speed the rpm jumps up to or drops and stays at 2,000 rpm. Only once the car is at a dead stop will it drop to a normal idle. Even when in stop and go slow traffic if i inch forward and push in clutch the idle immediately jumps up and stays at 2k. Makes traffic, parking lots and drive thrus a P.I.A. Any help would be awesome.
I am trying to get my idle dialed in. Can someone take a look at this log and let me know if I'm in a good spot? Everything is locked but my idle seems a little rougher than I had hoped. I can't seem to get a smooth idle out if it. Mods are in signature.
2007 Corvette LS2 M6 1 3/4 headers cam motion titan4 (227/232 613/596 113LS) Borla S-Type axle back
I know I'm chiming in on this old but very relevant thread, I am running a L92 in a yukon denali xl, just rebuilt the engine with a stage one vvt cam, 58lb injectors, and a cai and headers. I have tried a lot to get it to idle well and it just isnt working the way it should, currently i have a shake and sometimes it bogs down when leaving from a stop. i tried the steps here and it just reved up to around 2000rpm and stayed there (im guessing i messed up a step), so i used some of the settings from all the way back when the thread was created and it idled amazing minus when i blipped the throttle the rpms would drop way below idle level and the engine would stall. I read what to do to correct that and it didnt seem to make any difference. Im at a loss here plus other problems im having with tuning this thing, any advice would be greatly appreciated
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