Okay please tell me what I am missing here. I don't have the tabs options in my HP Tuners that you guys are wanting me to adjust.
And as far as the Idle tab I can go Idle->Airflow and that's it....There is no tab for Startup at all......
Please tell me what I am missing.
startup airflow is in the "idle" "airflow" tab under startup within the tab, make sure u have the view on advanced also so everything shows up
Make sure you're in advanced view first.Originally Posted by No fear
edit, view, advanced
2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80
~Greg Huggins~
Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
Mobile Tuning Available for North Georgia and WNC
Still not done. the builder had/has some ground issues to sort out. half the time the throttle won't open past 30%, fuel trims go to 0%, etc.
It's 99% done, I just want to make a WOT MAF pull or two. Maybe this coming weekend.
Been following this to tune the idle for my friends turbo 2008 gmc truck. Truck idles and is now drivable but only issue is it likes to stay 200 rpms higher than desired. I have tried lowering base air and changes a little. Tried adding timing but rpm goes higher as i do.
We want is at 800 rpms so i went with 500 target rpm and it idles at 800 now. But i know thats not the right way, what can i try next?
Less air and/or less timing.
Brought timing down to 0 and base airflow to around 3gs but still idles at 1000 rpms and goes down to desired and right back up. Seems like no matter what i do it idles at 1000 rpms with 6 degrees timing
Stock throttle body?
LS7 throttle body. Adjusted the etc scalar for the new throttle. I been at this for 2 days already lol. It wont idle at all if i zero out the integral airflow tables. Even after reving and holding it past 1500 for a few seconds.
are u SD only or maf also..? if ur SD then check the "effective area" "min fail" mine was too high on 5.0 u can try that at a lower value see if it helps
Vacuum leak?
Why do people automatically default that it's the 'tunes fault'? ie Your tune is making my old, freshly flowed/cleaned injectors stick wide open. no.....Your shit is fucked. Not my fault that even when they are unplugged from the harness, they continue to spray. And not my fault you hydrolocked your motor and bent rods, too.
Last edited by waynehartwig; 04-19-2017 at 10:02 AM.
MAF only but i figured it out yesterday. I tried bringing down the overspeed spark correction and underspeed spark correction from -17 to -15.3 and it idled down to target idle. Now it runs good just having idle going too low when coasting down at atound 30-35 mph. It goes to 500 and up to 800 and so on for a few seconds. Gonna try adding spark to coastdown table.
Interesting thread and concepts. Thanks for taking the time to share. Even though my HCIE 2007 Z06 idles quite well this made me revisit all my idle tuning from scratch since I did it all before I changed intakes, CAI, TB, and changed to E85. I used to be able to get my car to idle at 850 rpm with adaptive idle turned off, but now it's not steady at all. Luckily it's pretty darn good with adaptive idle on though. Tonight I tried idle timing from 15 to 22 degrees with adaptive off and couldn't get it to idle steady with my current abase airflow numbers. The timing changes didn't seem to make any difference. I'm guessing the NW102 might be to blame, but who knows. At least it's pretty darn steady with adaptive on though. I was just trying to fix surging I get during SOME hot starts. Haven't made any progress yet and I'm having trouble recreating the issue. Sometimes on hot starts the idle won't be steady for a good 30 seconds or so if I had to guess. I don't know why it only does it sometimes though. I thought I might need to play around with the open loop fueling, but I found that it goes into closed loop after 10 seconds anyways, so unless I changed the time it takes to go into closed loop, I'm not sure what else to mess with.
Really good write up! Thanks a lot. There wouldn't happen to be one like this but explaining MAF Calibration for the e38 ECM would there?
The MAF calibration is still the same for almost any of the GM V8's back to like 98/99, tuning them is the same process.
There is a write in the VCM scanner section about using fuel trims and a wideband to tune the MAF or VVE which a E38 uses.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Trying this method out but I cant figure out why my spark is still not locked in at 24 degrees. Any idea on what I might be missing?
I don't know how it is idling with 1.89g in all of the Base Running airflow table? Your idle spark says 16, not 24. Anyway, here is my BRA table for reference. It is probably not correct for your car, but closer than 1.89. Where is a log?
If you look at your idle spark table, and it is idling at 60kpa at 1000 rpm, then it is in the 6 degree range.
Last edited by Lakegoat; 10-21-2017 at 03:35 PM.
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
Yeah, I didn't realize I had it in lb/hr instead of g/s. I figured that part out haha. Anyways, I was able to get my spark to lock in without touching the idle spark and just using the HO/LO table method discussed. Regardless, I still cant get this thing to idle trying this method. My truck will idle just fine with my original tune from the previous tuner but I just like tinkering with things to try and see if I can make it any better and of course to learn. I have to always have my foot on the gas in order for it to stay running. As soon as I let off, the rpms instantly drop to low and it dies. How can I get it to command more TPS without giving it some throttle? I started with 5g/s, 9g/s, 12g/s and then 15g/s and didn't notice any improvement. I still had to keep my foot on the gas. This is a 5.3 with ported heads, 224/228@114 cam with around .580 lift, 105lb injectors, e85, lS3 throttle body, turbo, factory intake, 1:1 fuel system.
your base running airflow v ECT mult is zeroed out try that back to stock, and ALL your "follower torque" is zero too that wont help at all go back to stock, and all your adaptive airflow corrections are zeroed out that means that the ect isnt going to help at all, to dial in idle airflow put all those airflow tables back to stock and then zero out the spark correction tables and set idle spark tables to all the same say 16 then main spark to all 16 also so idle spark stays steady, then see what its like and adjust the airflow tables to dial it in and then once its good use spark as the last help (spark correction should be minimal if airflow is setup correct) also with those spark correction numbers maby try halving them
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