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Thread: Can not seem to change fuel cutoff 2003 2.2 ecotec from cavalier

  1. #1
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    Can not seem to change fuel cutoff 2003 2.2 ecotec from cavalier

    I bought my MPVI pro system from HP tuners back in 2007 and I tuned my engine swapped 86 Fiero with the software it came with .With help from tuners on the forum , I tuned it myself and I was very happy with the results .A couple of years ago , the car spent a year and a half in my garage while I built a custom rear suspension , new intake and exhaust .And then my old laptop died and I was forced to start tuning on a newer laptop .An attempt to transfer all my tuning stuff to the new laptop failed so I had to download the newest software and do a read entire to change the injector constant for my new 42 lb injectors .When I did this , my fuel cutoff changed from the 7000 RPM I had before down to somewhere around 6000 .3 writes later and many test drives show still around 6000 RPM fuel cutoff .I had no problem getting the injector constant to change(did it twice because the first value I tried the car would barely run) so I do not know what is going on .this is my tune
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    Last edited by wftb; 07-27-2016 at 04:57 PM.

  2. #2
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    Supposedly the problem is with my laptop .So I updated to windows 10 and tried again this morning .Still cuts fuel at about 6300 .Made no difference at all .I have been looking for the software they sent me when I bought the system .I know that worked in the past but I cant find it .I cant see buying another windows based laptop , everything else I own is Apple stuff .So tuning my car is stalled for now .Maybe something else is causing the problem .Could be the fuel pressure regulator , I have another one I can try .

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    Do you have a log of the car showing the issue?

    Make sure you set your RPM Limits accordingly,

    Engine>Fuel>Cutoff, DFCO>Fuel Cutoff RPM>Moving = 7000
    Engine>Fuel>Cutoff, DFCO>Fuel Resume RPM>Moving = 7000
    Engine>Fuel>Cutoff, DFCO>Fuel Resume RPM- excessive>Moving = 7000
    RPM Limits.png

    Also set your Spark Limiters Accordingly,

    Engine>Spark>Advance>Spark Limiters>RPM - Drive = 7000
    Engine>Spark>Advance>Spark Limiters>RPM - P/N = 7000
    Spark Limiters.png

    Then get me a log with those changed made, to see if that helped any.

  4. #4
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    Going to try these changes tomorrow morning , will let you know how it works out .Thanks for the advice and reply ...Steve

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    Made the changes and did another write and I think the problem is not with the fuel cutoff .I can get it to rev freely past where the fuel cutoff was stalling it out but only if I back off on the throttle .I did not bother to try to push it all the way to 7000 , the fact that it made it to 6700 or so was good enough .Why I cant get it to rev up at full throttle is the question now .still not right.hpl
    The IAT you will notice is a little high but only because the air to water pump and fan were disconnected .They have to be off when I do a write and the only way to do that is to crawl under the car .They are reconnected now and seldom go above 40 C .
    Last edited by wftb; 08-02-2016 at 08:25 AM.

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    You really do not have alot of information being logged. So hard to tell, what is going on.

    Your fuel trims seem to be pretty high in some areas.

    In those two areas where you do go WOT, are you staying WOT or are you letting out? It hits WOT and then drops and opens about 50%. So if you are staying WOT during that entire time, you to look for something up with the throttle body(TPS or possibly something mechanical with the throttle body or cables).

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    I go wide open throttle and then when the engines fuel cutoff seems to stall it out I back off the throttle and the revs start to climb again . I have to get my old tune from the repository and do some comparing .I really don't know why it is doing this .

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    What is your timing look like? Can you add more parameters to your scan.

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    I basically never really learned how to do much of this stuff .When I bought the system and did my tuning , I just followed along on some other threads that had similar engines to mine and just copied what they did .Until now , that worked really well . My present tune is in the first post if that helps any .

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    What is your engine modification list?

    PE Base AFR.png
    Engine>Fuel>Power Enrich>Power Enrichment>Power Enrichment>Base AFR vs ECT - You do not need to be commanding that rich of AFR?

    If you are naturally aspirated still, start off by commanding around 12.3 afr. That will be a good safe starting point. You will need to also get a wideband in the exhaust on the car so you can calibrate your VE tables. That way you can measure actual afr and compare to commanded afr.

    As for your timing tables, they are stock except for you removing a couple of degrees from the 105kpa column. Stock is good starting point to get fuel dialed in, then once fueling is dialed in, then you should be able to increase the timing a bit.

  11. #11
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    2.2 ecotec from a 2006 chev of some kind .2nd engine .10.5:1 comp. wiseco pistons , eagle rods .2.4 L ecotec intake .Hahn race craft turbo manifold with 20 G turbo also from hahn .Snow electronic water meth injection .Frozen boost air to water intercooler .Manual boost controller .6:1 FMU .Catalytic converter from a 2.4 L base solstice and single pipe exhaust , no muffler .42 lb injectors .And a lot of other stuff I can't remember off the top of my head .It all worked great until I switched laptops .And getting rid of my old exhaust probably has contributed too .When I originally tuned the car , I had a HP tower and an HP laptop so I could download other peoples tunes and compare them from screen to screen .Now my deskstop is an apple so I can not do that anymore .Tonight I ran out of paper printing tunes to compare to mine .One thing I have noticed is that alot of my tune has defaulted back to stock .I am trying to figure out what I need to change .Also , I think my Blowoff valve is pooched and I need to get a new one of those before I go changing things ,Anyway thanks for your help , it has opened my eyes up to examine a lot of things .

  12. #12
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    raise your traction control threshold rpm to max value and set your spark retard table in the same tab to 0* that way the traction control system cannot cut you back on power.
    this is the worst ecu to boost on but basically the map sensor is only used at idle and cruise. because of this method you will have to tune each ve table at a fixed boost controller setting. if you change the boost controller setting you will have to make a new tune as it affects spool and max boost fueling.
    since your running boost try lowering your ignition in pe mode to something around 14* ignition while you sort everything out. The only people that run +20* of ignition under boost are people who were like me (physically altered everything i could get my hands on to prevent detonation and make maximum dyno hp) . people who drive on the street or wish for a boosted car to last tend to run ignition in the 14-17* range. If your methanol kits allow you to run higher after you have sorted the rest out thats a different story.
    also i would zero out your ignition modifiers so they dont skew your results while tuning the base ignition map.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

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    Thanks for the replies , I am busy at work for a few days but I am starting to get a handle on what needs to be done .Going to download and print out another tune from a similar setup to mine and then start doing VE tables etc .I did not think the traction control did anything on my setup but it makes sense that it will affect things too .

  14. #14
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    Rule number 1...shut down traction control all the way...it has a mind of its own

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    I have everything working well again , I posted in the sticky at the top about what I did . Thanks for the help .

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    I wanted to update this thread because the real cause of all my problems was when I built my new exhaust I used 2" piping from the turbo to the cat and then to the bumper outlet, single tube. My old exhaust was 2.5" with a camaro flowmaster muffler and dual outlets. The 2" pipe was just too small, basically choking the turbo. No amount of tuning was going to solve the problem.Why sometimes I could get it to 7000 and not other times I have no idea. I had just enough stainless 2.5 " pipe and fittings to weld up a new single pipe exhaust and it made a world of difference.Now I am tuning out all the things I messed up and the car is running great. Early to be driving the car, good weather has come early and I am taking advantage.

  17. #17
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    1.5" header primaries into turbo and minimum 3" downpipe out of turbo. Reduces the back pressure in the turbine housing. Going to small will push the wastegate open.

  18. #18
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    2.5" is as big as I can go. On a Fiero the OEM motors had exhaust coming out of the motor at the front of the cradle and the ecotec comes out at the back of the cradle. Even with the bottom half of the trunk cut out there is not enough room for bigger exhaust piping.

  19. #19
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    Why is it in all the threads that I am looking at to get tips there is no link to the tune or files? Do they just disappear on older threads?

  20. #20
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    vbulletin storage may have a maximum storage capacity time frame in which if the file is older than "x" threshold in years, then poof its dumped for good to generate more room for newer topics.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman