Here's what I've been working on for the past few weeks. It's not to be taken as 100% gospel, but it is based on countless hours of logging and experimentation, and is intended mainly to catalyze the sharing of tuning info related to the EcoBoost platform. The tuning guide provides a basic walk-through to have the 2013-up SHO 3.5L EcoBoost produce about 16-18 psi (at the MAP) out to 6000 RPM so be sure to run 93 octane. As a disclaimer, I actually worked on this using 87 octane and comparing the knock retard with the factory tune using 87 octane. 93 octane should reduce a lot (if not all) of the knock retard, but depending on the gas quality in your area you may want to reduce the boost a bit using the Max Desired Pressure scalar. The datalogging guide should help those new to VCM Scanner get started relatively quickly. I know there are a lot of tuners more knowledgeable about the EcoBoost lurking about, so hopefully they are willing to chime in to explain more of the different settings.
UPDATE 11 AUG 2016:
I finally did some testing with 93 octane (not a full 100% tank, but more like 79%) and knock was severely reduced, I saw zero knock retard during a WOT test, and then I saw 3 degrees max of KR doing the same test again. I'm sure with a few more fillups with 93 octane it'll reduce it even further. This is a 16-17 psi tune. The trans fluid temp is roughly 10 degrees cooler with the TCC clutch settings I'm testing. Once my normal PC is up and running, I'll update the guide with the new settings I'm using.
UPDATE 13 AUG 2016:
The new V1.1 guide is posted. I had to split it into 3 PDF files because the forum has a size limit for PDF files. It's awkward and I tried my best to compress the file as its only 16 pages, but I think the screenshots just increased the size.
UPDATE 29 AUG 2016:
I updated Part 3, didn't feel it was a big enough change to warrant being labeled V1.2, but it changes the section on Torque Reduction and added speedometer recalibration. I was doing research on Torque Reduction and found that it is a good idea to enable it at stock values for 0-3000 RPM operation to ensure the transmission lives longer. For 4000 RPM and higher, it can be reduced to prevent too much torque reduction but should never be totally disabled. I found that most cars from the factory seem to have the speedometer deviating by 1-2 mph versus GPS and this always irked me a bit.
UPDATE 18 SEP 2016:
I updated the guide to Version 1.2, no major changes. After numerous tanks of 93 octane, there hasn't been any knock retard detected during WOT test runs. I did set the fuel pump settings back to stock (max of 2100 psi), and made a few changes to the TCC slip settings to try and reduce as much slippage as possible. I also accidentally caused a Write Fail, resulting in a no-start condition along with a bunch of error messages. I found a fix after an hour of trying different things. I basically had to Write Entire with the original stock tune and then flash it again with the new tune. I may not have had to do Write Entire with the stock tune, but I'm not going to go back and try it.
UPDATE 11 JAN 2017:
I suppose I did skip 1.3, but here's an updated Version 1.4 guide that incorporates some lessons learned from track testing. I also have Denso ITV22 plugs and the Reische 4D 170F thermostat installed. The fan settings are still being tested at this point. Reische didn't have any recommended settings for the newer Fords since the ECUs no longer have High/Low fan settings. HPTuners was kind enough to increase the size limit for PDF files, so I can finally upload a single guide instead of breaking it into 4 parts.
UPDATE 16 JAN 2017:
Version 1.5 is released with some tweaks to try and address torque reduction with throttle opening activities.
UPDATE 21 JAN 2017:
Version 1.6 is out with minor changes to the transmission adaptive tables. Mainly reductions in slip/torque transfer times and an increase in general max pressure. Nothing too radical but more seamless shifting.