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Thread: 3800 with a Novi 1000 Blower

  1. #1
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    3800 with a Novi 1000 Blower

    Hi Guys,

    I just finished my build and think I have my tune pretty close other than my speedo is way off from what it actually is in the car. I will work on getting that dialed in next time I have it off the trailer before eliminations. My question is is there anything I can do in my tune to help my 60' that you guys can tell? I'm not sure if I richen it up at the bottom end if it would help or the few lean areas are from the tip in off the line. This car is used for bracket racing and I believe I have disabled my LTFTs already. I am running VP110 race gas the car has a 3500 non locking stall. Is there a way to get the car to rev higher at the line without it walking or is my only hope here to switch converters to a 4000 or 4500. I have 3.69 gears as well.

    I am going to increase my fueling a bit and hopefully get down to 11.9-12.1 across the board at WOT. Is it only using the MAF table or is it using the VE table as well off the hit?

    These are the current tune and my last pass log that I have. I also found a broken vacuum T that was causing the fluctuating MAP readings in the run I believe.

    Thanks in advance!
    Brian Hendricks


    1stTT-12.583.hpl
    TuneChanges.hpt

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    The VE table is really only used for transition tuning and isn't used much past that on a 3800. Anytime you are really into the throttle it's MAF only. Your whole runs are using the MAF table only to control fueling.

    Smooth your MAF curve out, it's little too bumpy. You have a huge dip between 10,125 and 10,375hz. I also find it easier to just stick with a stoich rating of 14.7 because that would match your OL afr command. I don't think race gas is above 15 but I haven't read into it. You are pretty lean while just idling, Having the broken vacuum line could have caused that you it needs at little adjustment to the MAF down low to bring in some fuel.

    Right at 3,100 rpm and before you leave the line the wideband is showing 18 AFR. Then it goes rich to 11.8 and starts leaning right back out to 13 and back to mid 12's.

    If you can't stall it past what you are, I'm not sure you'll get much better starts unless traction is an issue.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  3. #3
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    Should i set PE to come on at 10% since thats where I am at TPS wise while staging? I will change my stoich point back to 14.7 and try to dial in the fueling again. I need to get back on the dyno to get good data across all the cells i guess.

    Thanks for your help!

  4. #4
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    I don't see how changing the TPS enable will do anything, 15% is already low enough. It looks like you are power braking far past 15% throttle while building revs and it goes straight into enrichment when you let off and get going.


    I just street tuned my old 2000 GTP to dial things in but I can assume this is a track only car with no plates. I don't think it would run the best on the street with a solid 23 degree's on timing in every cell. Really only the last 4 cell groups matter for final timing, like .76 to .92. It might help dial in fueling better too if you are able to run regular timing when you are just idling and waiting to run.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.