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Thread: 2015 Silverado 6L80E torque converter question

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    2015 Silverado 6L80E torque converter question

    In the oem tune, the torque converter locks up at 1500 rpm's and unlocks at 1350. Unfortunately, this is right at highway cruise rpm (3.08 gears) and is constantly locking/unlocking in part throttle application. I assume it's the tc, it makes a little clunk type sound as r's go from 1200 to 1500 and back. kind of irritating

    Can I lower this or what?

    also, can this be run in high speed lockup mode and/or stay locked during shift. Benefits/drawbacks??? don't want to burn it up

    thx
    Last edited by rjw; 08-22-2016 at 03:17 PM.
    2003 MY Z06 3.3 liter whipple ...sold at around 1000 rwhp
    wip 2015 Silverado w/2.9 Whipple (phase 1 completed) phase 2 in the works

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    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    If the converter is not made to stay in full lock up under full throttle, you do not want to do that. It will burn itself up.

    Being stock you are better off leaving it stock and letting it stay unlocked.

    There should be a table in there that allows you to change the lock up speed for each gear. But anytime you are on and off the throttle it will unlock the converter by program design.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    If the converter is not made to stay in full lock up under full throttle, you do not want to do that. It will burn itself up.

    Being stock you are better off leaving it stock and letting it stay unlocked.

    There should be a table in there that allows you to change the lock up speed for each gear. But anytime you are on and off the throttle it will unlock the converter by program design.
    Is there a problem in setting it to lock up at say 1000 or 1100 rpm rather than 1500/1350?

    also, here is the write popup....says A6 ??
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rjw; 08-22-2016 at 03:42 PM.
    2003 MY Z06 3.3 liter whipple ...sold at around 1000 rwhp
    wip 2015 Silverado w/2.9 Whipple (phase 1 completed) phase 2 in the works

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    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Without ever trying I can't say for sure what would happen but I'd think it would shudder and maybe shake as those low of rpm's.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    Without ever trying I can't say for sure what would happen but I'd think it would shudder and maybe shake as those low of rpm's.
    pls see attachment above...shuddering is what it is doing now??
    2003 MY Z06 3.3 liter whipple ...sold at around 1000 rwhp
    wip 2015 Silverado w/2.9 Whipple (phase 1 completed) phase 2 in the works

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    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Automatic 6 Speed transmission = A6.


    You might just have to play with it and see what works for you. I was saying that it might shake or shudder worse if it went straight into lock up once it reached 1,000 rpm in 6th gear because the rpm's are so low.

    You could try lowering it a little to 1,400 or going up to 1,600 rpm and see how it acts. I have a 3.42's in my 6 speed truck, way better than those crappy 3.08's they run for all out mpg so I haven't dealt with a issue like this.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  7. #7
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    I personally prefer my converter to stay locked as much as possible unless I'm on the strip, so I have my tables set up to downshift rather than just unlocking the converter. This is a better option IMO than trying to lug the motor at low RPMs and high load, which is bad for any motor, especially one modified for higher output.

    The way it was always explained to me, even on a stock motor you don't really start making usable torque until 2K+ RPM, so there's no sense trying to accelerate lower than that if you want to get anything done. This phenomenon is more exaggerated with more aggressive camshaft profiles.

    Since I drive a Corvette and not a truck, I rarely see speeds which would put me at < 1600 RPM in 6th. I have my tables set up to avoid that too. The fuel economy difference is negligible for me personally.

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    Quote Originally Posted by njedwardz View Post
    I personally prefer my converter to stay locked as much as possible unless I'm on the strip, so I have my tables set up to downshift rather than just unlocking the converter. This is a better option IMO than trying to lug the motor at low RPMs and high load, which is bad for any motor, especially one modified for higher output.

    The way it was always explained to me, even on a stock motor you don't really start making usable torque until 2K+ RPM, so there's no sense trying to accelerate lower than that if you want to get anything done. This phenomenon is more exaggerated with more aggressive camshaft profiles.

    Since I drive a Corvette and not a truck, I rarely see speeds which would put me at < 1600 RPM in 6th. I have my tables set up to avoid that too. The fuel economy difference is negligible for me personally.
    thatis how we are doing it at this point....just with 3.08 gears, even in 5th it's cruising 65-75mph at between 1200 and 1500. very slight pedal causes a shudder. needless to say, we give it a bit more, but then we are on the verge of rear ending someone...lol. do you lock up your converter? on the street/between shifts, or...??

    thx for the response
    2003 MY Z06 3.3 liter whipple ...sold at around 1000 rwhp
    wip 2015 Silverado w/2.9 Whipple (phase 1 completed) phase 2 in the works

  9. #9
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    If you're set on eliminating the shudder, you need to spend some time tuning the VVE tables to optimize the mixture, then play with the spark timing at the ranges where shudder occurs to get smooth power delivery without big transients. Even with a large cam in my car, I can drive at 1300-2000(and above) without any noticible shudder when locked.

    Currently, I'm locking in 4th on the street but I can lock 2nd or 3rd without any issues and it will hold WOT just fine (it is an aftermarket triple disk setup though).

    I do NOT keep the converter locked during shifts as this causes undue wear on both the TCC and the actual transmission clutches. When it's set to not lock during shifts, the control logic unlocks the converter, performs the shift, then re-applies lockup all in one seamless movement. No sense in disrupting that I think.