2014 Chevy Colorado 2.8 Duramax E98 Ecu. Newbie to diesel tuning

[scorch_fx]

Hi,

I dyno'ed 2014 Colorado 2.8 duramax. Im new to diesel tuning. I know i could get atleast 240-250 whp. Any advise will be helpful.

Boost drops a lot after 3500 rpm. I want it around 260kpa-240kpa fullboost to redline.
Afr is too rich. I would like to maintain aroun 16-15afr all the way. Seems like I lost control of the fueling.


final.hplcolorado.jpg

[cobaltssoverbooster]

i havent tuned one of these yet but from fumbling through the file in the repository you should be able to correct boost with the Desired Boost tables under TM/ SC/TC Boost Control.
i would also be fumbling around with the EGT Vane control which is the Vane Control table under TM/ Turbocharger.

as for fueling the 20 Base Fuel tables are under Diesel Qty./ Main Injection/ Base Fuel Qty & Qty. vs. TQ. (low/med/high)

[scorch_fx]

I set the desired boost to 300-330kpa. Not following the table. Also played around the vane control. Please explain vane control more. Higher the number= more boost?

I know i could make more power 3500 rpm to 4200 rpm.

[scorch_fx]

Bogga
AKO89

[cobaltssoverbooster]

vane is not related to boost pressure it the way your thinking.
vane control is a spooling aid. the tighter the vanes restrict flow the quicker it is to spool. the reason i would play with it is to 1 limit the spool time to a certain window to prevent transmission failure and 2 to allow the turbine case to flow out once spool is achieved.

[scorch_fx]

Thanks cobalt. Sorry Im very new to vgt and vnt turbos. So basically even if I set the boost to 300kpa it wont reach that boost level because the turbo is already maxed out.

[Tre-Cool]

I set the desired boost to 300-330kpa. Not following the table. Also played around the vane control. Please explain vane control more. Higher the number= more boost?

I know i could make more power 3500 rpm to 4200 rpm.

Even with the AUS model colorado you need to have 300+ numbers for boost to max out the stock map sensor to 255kpa. I've not actually put a pressure guage on to see what the actual psi level is though.

I suspect the stock turbo/intercooler just can't provide the required air flow to keep above 220kpa past 3200rpm.

[scorch_fx]

Seems like its dropping to 210kpa 3500rpm above. Could we change map sensors to 4 bar? any part number? Which is better option. 1. Change turbo with billet wheel or go for compounded turbo?

[crakrz]

I suspect the stock turbo/intercooler just can't provide the required air flow to keep above 220kpa past 3200rpm.

Mine is the earlier Bosch ECU, not the E98, but the same turbo and intercooler. It can easily maintain 300kpa (30psi boost) past 3200 rpm. It's just not very efficient at that point. The turbo is turning really hard by that stage. Measuring air flow at the maf, they really struggle to push more air by the time you reach 3500 rpm. No matter how much boost you are getting at the manifold, it just can't push enough cool air in to keep egt's down. I have found the efficiency range of this turbo is 1500 - 3000rpm, which is absolutely perfect for this motor and the real world conditions, but the limitations really show once you start going outside that range. It will go higher, but everything just starts heating up pretty fast.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

from what i read here looks like you would have to add a new low pressure unit to gain the flow you want over 3000 rpm.
General Rule: to figure the max flow: find maximum flow in lb/hr of the stock high pressure unit and double that value. This new value will be your target flow for the new low pressure unit. you will have to select a turbocharger that will boost the same pressure as the stock high pressure unit but achieves a flow close to double the first.
chances are you will find yourself in a turbo that is 1.75 more flow than the stock high pressure unit as you will most likely run out of injector by the time the double sized unit runs in at desired pressure.

good luck getting that to work with electronic boost control. the newer Bosch ecus don't take kindly to mechanical controlled boost regulators. Its possible, just takes time to make it all work like its supposed to.


i should add on a very general note: GM loves turbochargers that have optimal efficiency in the 14-18psi range. this makes 24psi their max and shaft limit. this also inherently makes the turbocharger spool much quicker which is good for street driven diesel applications, bad for mid rpm race diesels.

[scorch_fx]

Thanks for all the replies. Im thinking of getting stock turbo housing with 4-6 mm larger billet wheel. Hoping to get more power mid to high rpm's.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

i believe if you can bump the efficiency by roughly 75% you should have more use of the 3000-3700 range

[scorch_fx]

Thanks Cobalt. You mean compressor efficiency map?

[cobaltssoverbooster]

i should have said flow not efficiency.
if the turbo stock flow is 32 lbs per hour and you wanted to increase its flow by 75% then you would need a turbo with its efficiency range sitting in the 56 lbs per hour range at your desired pressure ratio.

p ratio= (desired+atm)/atm
ex: max boost = (30 psi + 14.69 psi) / 14.69 psi = p ratio of 3.042
ex: street boost = (20 psi + 14.69 psi) / 14.69 psi = p ratio of 2.361
New Desired Flow = ({desired flow increase % / 100} x current flow rate) + current flow rate
ex: ill use 32 lb/hr from earlier in post to call stock flow rate.
({75% /100} x 32) + 32 = New Desired Flow of 56 lb/hr

using the data from the above examples if i run 20 & 30 psi then the new turbocharger i would want needs to have a optimized compressor map at a pressure ratio of 3.04 and at a flow of roughly 56 lb/hr +/- 5 lb/hr.
the reason you look at a pressure zone and max flow is to see if the compressor falls out of efficiency across the zone in which it is to be used.

here is the example plotted against a Garret GTX3582R GenII
range test.png
you can see the max boost is the red line and the street pressure is the blue line.
the green lines are the buffer zone for the desired lb/hr of flow.
now when your nailing it you could see this particular compressor happens to land in a high efficiency zone on the map.
considering partial throttle will run a lower pressure and flow in a curve i would call this an excellent turbocharger for the values used in the example.

you will have to record engine lb/hr either through ve or maf data and use that as your stock flow rate. then you could add to it using the formulas and start testing turbocharger compressor maps to see which ones fit.
last motor i compounded used gtx3076r high pressure turbine and a legacy gt4202 low pressure turbine. the gt flows roughly 43 lb/hr and the gt4202 is 100% or double that at 85 lb/hr. keeping stock injectors and hardware in mind you may want to play with the flow increase percentage to find a more responsive compound setup that doesnt exceed the flow limitations.
you could map injector duty and flow rate to see how much flow you can add until the injector runs out. its simple mathematics to get a general answer.

[AKO89]

Thanks for the tag scorch. I'll be getting mine on the dyno soon for some testing. I've noticed it's gotten doey in this heat

[scorch_fx]

Thanks cobalt. very nice info.

So far this is my first diesel tuning. Im used to race cars with standalone ecu. I would like to learn more. practice and experiment some more

[scorch_fx]

[QUOTE=AKO89;458947]Thanks for the tag scorch. I'll be getting mine on the dyno soon for some testing. I've noticed it's gotten doey in this heat

AKO89, lets see the development and result. thanks

[Tre-Cool]

Mine is the earlier Bosch ECU, not the E98, but the same turbo and intercooler. It can easily maintain 300kpa (30psi boost) past 3200 rpm. It's just not very efficient at that point. The turbo is turning really hard by that stage. Measuring air flow at the maf, they really struggle to push more air by the time you reach 3500 rpm. No matter how much boost you are getting at the manifold, it just can't push enough cool air in to keep egt's down. I have found the efficiency range of this turbo is 1500 - 3000rpm, which is absolutely perfect for this motor and the real world conditions, but the limitations really show once you start going outside that range. It will go higher, but everything just starts heating up pretty fast.

my auto shifts at wot are 3500rpm, but on the dyno i was revving to 4200 in tapshift. iat's definitely go up quick.

i very rarely even take it over 3k when driving normally, i've gone from 150whp stock to 205 now and im still running full factory spec exhaust. I'm impressed. lol

colorado-205.jpg

[scorch_fx]

my auto shifts at wot are 3500rpm, but on the dyno i was revving to 4200 in tapshift. iat's definitely go up quick.

i very rarely even take it over 3k when driving normally, i've gone from 150whp stock to 205 now and im still running full factory spec exhaust. I'm impressed. lol

colorado-205.jpg

Nice gain. What is that on the bottom of the graph IAT?

[Tre-Cool]

dyno ramp up time. just shows no funny business with running a quicker ramp speed etc