My googling has led me to believe that I have bad sensors on both, which is weird.
Are you saying your coolant is hot?
No lean will not burn hotter, stoichiometric mixture burns the hottest generally and your o2 sensor is gonna try to get lambda.
Do you by chance have the Air Deflector below the radiator?
Was it going over 208 before? These engines runs pretty hot. Those seem like normal numbers. If you do go above 220 then you have a problem. My 2.2 g5 and my other 2.4 g5 both have got to 219 before the temp strts going down. But that only happens on hot days. Usually normally at around 189-210 on days were its warm.
track days at road atlanta, mazda raceway/laguna seca, and sonoma raceway all netted me coolant temps in the 210-215 with stock radiator and fan. i did bump the fan controls to gurantee the fans stayed on all the way around the track but i can almost guarantee it was on anyways.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
Before the Turbo it was not running hot. Pulled one of the heater hoses and it was almost melted through. Replaced and heat shielded most of the Coolant lines around the downpipe. Temps stay low, <208, with the heat off. If I turn the heat on, Temps rise, I think the core is bad. I have also talked to AEM and they are sending me a new pressure sensor for the boost gauge, O2 is also bad but not covered under warranty, so I have to pay for that. I have an oversized radiator and at one point on my ride this morning I was pegged at 185 for several minutes, then I tried to turn the heat on because it was 24? and my toes were going numb. I drive an hour and fifteen minutes to work. Anyhow, I told AEM and ZZP both, how disappointed I am in their products. The instructions were so bad for the Turbo kit, one step told me, with a picture, to plug the oil feed into the front of the engine. I asked customer service about needing to take the intake manifold off to do this, they said "it would be easier", when the feed line is supposed to go on the back side.
i have never once purchased a forced induction kit that didn't need modification or came with 100% legit instructions. That's just how it is man you have to suck that one up cause it wont be any better from anywhere else.
I have not had the issues you are having with any aem stuff. The sensor do go out on di motors because the wideband sensor gets filled with soot and cant be cleaned out but other than that everything has wired right in and started functioning as a stand alone unit fine. if you enter it into the hpt then there are a couple of things that you have to do. i suggest reading the lasted threads for installing a wideband in the v8 section. They already have a nice write-up there. that should get both of your gauges functioning properly in the new system.
Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 02-10-2017 at 02:57 PM.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
Hey, I'm not asking for them to tell me what tools to have ready, I just want it to come with all of the parts and show me the right part of the engine I need to take apart, then answer my questions accurately. I tested the boost gauge and it isn't sending a signal to the gauge. ZZP wants me to pull the wideband so they can test it which will probably destroy my Ortiz pod because it is made out of some kind of potato chip like material. I'll check out that thread and see if I can get it working right first. Thanks. I'm ready to get done chasing my tail so I can start the fun stuff.
Zzp never admits when their products have flaws. I bought sound harnesses from them and they were complete crap. The connectors for an injector harness i had came right off the wires and i had to repin them. The maf extension harness would not plug into my stock maf harness, the pins were all in the wrong postion and ended up throwing it away. Also bought a intercooler pump connector and they had the colors switched, like power was black wire and red was ground, i was puzzled for so long why my pump would flow lol. And they said i should have let a professional install them. They ignored when i told them how nothing worked and they even deleted my review on their page.
Anyway enough ranting, im glad you got your car to stop overheating and hope they make a change to their instructions and kit.
Yeah, I don't want to turn this into an "ZZP sucks" thread, but I told them that I was losing faith in them. This project could have been completed with less issues a long time ago had they just been willing to help. Aside from the worst instructions I have ever seen for a car mod, my kit was missing parts that held me up for days. I spent another $850 on two different shops diagnoses, water pump, oversized radiator, two thermostats, Coolant sensor, heater core, and gallons and gallons of antifreeze and additives that were supposed to help, and all I needed was a $3 pack of hose connectors from auto Zone and a few hose clamps. Now they want me to pull out the wideband and send it in for testing, which is not something I want to do. I have a $50 credit for a cat that I sent in, I'll probably use that and then shop elsewhere. Thanks for all the help, guys. Hopefully I can get this WB done soon and get to fixing this tune.
Colson
Are you referring to this step?
28k5vmv.jpg
B.Roid
Do you still have that brass fitting? Is it machined all the way through?
Even on OEM production I have seen casting flash left in fittings.
Last edited by HGT; 04-06-2017 at 10:47 AM.