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Thread: New guy with an LE5/K04 and cooling issues

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.Roid99 View Post
    What would cause it to give me a false reading? It's already t'd into with the vac reference port on the turbo, boost gauge T is about 6 inches from that. Also, wideband has power now, but also isn't giving me a reading. Warning light says there is an issue with my sensor.
    What kinda of boost gauge are you using?

  2. #22
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    My googling has led me to believe that I have bad sensors on both, which is weird.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.Roid99 View Post
    My googling has led me to believe that I have bad sensors on both, which is weird.
    Again what gauges are you using? AEM? Digital boost I'm assuming?

  4. #24
    Are you saying your coolant is hot?

    No lean will not burn hotter, stoichiometric mixture burns the hottest generally and your o2 sensor is gonna try to get lambda.

    Do you by chance have the Air Deflector below the radiator?

  5. #25
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colson1230 View Post
    Again what gauges are you using? AEM? Digital boost I'm assuming?
    AEM digital boost 30-4406
    AEM analog e85 Wideband 30-5143

  6. #26
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eronq9 View Post
    Are you saying your coolant is hot?

    No lean will not burn hotter, stoichiometric mixture burns the hottest generally and your o2 sensor is gonna try to get lambda.

    Do you by chance have the Air Deflector below the radiator?
    No air deflector below the radiator. Put some radiant hear shielding on my heater hoses and didn't get past 208 for the most part on the way to work today, mainly stayed 185-205 range. Talking with AEM tying to get my gauges working

  7. #27
    Was it going over 208 before? These engines runs pretty hot. Those seem like normal numbers. If you do go above 220 then you have a problem. My 2.2 g5 and my other 2.4 g5 both have got to 219 before the temp strts going down. But that only happens on hot days. Usually normally at around 189-210 on days were its warm.

  8. #28
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    track days at road atlanta, mazda raceway/laguna seca, and sonoma raceway all netted me coolant temps in the 210-215 with stock radiator and fan. i did bump the fan controls to gurantee the fans stayed on all the way around the track but i can almost guarantee it was on anyways.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  9. #29
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    Before the Turbo it was not running hot. Pulled one of the heater hoses and it was almost melted through. Replaced and heat shielded most of the Coolant lines around the downpipe. Temps stay low, <208, with the heat off. If I turn the heat on, Temps rise, I think the core is bad. I have also talked to AEM and they are sending me a new pressure sensor for the boost gauge, O2 is also bad but not covered under warranty, so I have to pay for that. I have an oversized radiator and at one point on my ride this morning I was pegged at 185 for several minutes, then I tried to turn the heat on because it was 24? and my toes were going numb. I drive an hour and fifteen minutes to work. Anyhow, I told AEM and ZZP both, how disappointed I am in their products. The instructions were so bad for the Turbo kit, one step told me, with a picture, to plug the oil feed into the front of the engine. I asked customer service about needing to take the intake manifold off to do this, they said "it would be easier", when the feed line is supposed to go on the back side.

  10. #30
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    i have never once purchased a forced induction kit that didn't need modification or came with 100% legit instructions. That's just how it is man you have to suck that one up cause it wont be any better from anywhere else.
    I have not had the issues you are having with any aem stuff. The sensor do go out on di motors because the wideband sensor gets filled with soot and cant be cleaned out but other than that everything has wired right in and started functioning as a stand alone unit fine. if you enter it into the hpt then there are a couple of things that you have to do. i suggest reading the lasted threads for installing a wideband in the v8 section. They already have a nice write-up there. that should get both of your gauges functioning properly in the new system.
    Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 02-10-2017 at 02:57 PM.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  11. #31
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    Hey, I'm not asking for them to tell me what tools to have ready, I just want it to come with all of the parts and show me the right part of the engine I need to take apart, then answer my questions accurately. I tested the boost gauge and it isn't sending a signal to the gauge. ZZP wants me to pull the wideband so they can test it which will probably destroy my Ortiz pod because it is made out of some kind of potato chip like material. I'll check out that thread and see if I can get it working right first. Thanks. I'm ready to get done chasing my tail so I can start the fun stuff.

  12. #32
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colson1230 View Post
    does this happen to be a zzp turbo kit? Reason i ask is cause i had this same issue with my car which at the time of installation was a l61 and then recently swapped to a le5. nothing i did would bring the temps down. i found that the way zzp has you run the coolant hose from the turbo to fitting on the head and then to the coolant tank was allowing air to be trapped...i simply took the coolant fitting off the head near the upper radiator hose and plugged it with a bolt. and ran the turbo coolant return straight to the tank. this fixed my issue. wasn't a tuning issue at all...
    Did this. No Overheating now. Told ZZP and they refused to believe that it is a design flaw because "they have sold hundreds of these kits". Now I just have to figure out why AEM says that my sensors are bad. Then maybe I can log something.

  13. #33
    Zzp never admits when their products have flaws. I bought sound harnesses from them and they were complete crap. The connectors for an injector harness i had came right off the wires and i had to repin them. The maf extension harness would not plug into my stock maf harness, the pins were all in the wrong postion and ended up throwing it away. Also bought a intercooler pump connector and they had the colors switched, like power was black wire and red was ground, i was puzzled for so long why my pump would flow lol. And they said i should have let a professional install them. They ignored when i told them how nothing worked and they even deleted my review on their page.

    Anyway enough ranting, im glad you got your car to stop overheating and hope they make a change to their instructions and kit.

  14. #34
    Tuner in Training B.Roid99's Avatar
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    Yeah, I don't want to turn this into an "ZZP sucks" thread, but I told them that I was losing faith in them. This project could have been completed with less issues a long time ago had they just been willing to help. Aside from the worst instructions I have ever seen for a car mod, my kit was missing parts that held me up for days. I spent another $850 on two different shops diagnoses, water pump, oversized radiator, two thermostats, Coolant sensor, heater core, and gallons and gallons of antifreeze and additives that were supposed to help, and all I needed was a $3 pack of hose connectors from auto Zone and a few hose clamps. Now they want me to pull out the wideband and send it in for testing, which is not something I want to do. I have a $50 credit for a cat that I sent in, I'll probably use that and then shop elsewhere. Thanks for all the help, guys. Hopefully I can get this WB done soon and get to fixing this tune.

  15. #35
    Can't put a price on fun....

  16. #36
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    Colson

    Are you referring to this step?

    28k5vmv.jpg


    B.Roid

    Do you still have that brass fitting? Is it machined all the way through?
    Even on OEM production I have seen casting flash left in fittings.
    Last edited by HGT; 04-06-2017 at 10:47 AM.