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Thread: ls7 eoit help for big cams

  1. #1
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    ls7 eoit help for big cams

    Hi i been reading a lot on eoit. I have an 07 z06 with tsp ls7r cam at idle it stinks so bad and i would like clean the smell up as best as i can. ive read that adjusting the boundary or the ect can help a lot plus help with surging. anyone with this cam that play with the eoit able to tell me what they have there eoit set at or help what i should set it at.
    i had the car tuned last summer it only dyno 558 hp through stock intake full exhaust, forged pistons -3cc, heads are mill .30. i was hoping to be 580hp plus but didn't happen lol. i just put a fast intake on but haven't tune for it yet

    cam specs are 248/256 .655/.655 114lsa
    at .50

    ivo is 14deg BTDC indicates ATDC ivc is 54deg ABDC evo is 66 deg BBDC evc is 10deg ATDC indicates BTDC is 24deg over lap
    stock cam is
    -11 41 59 -9 -20

  2. #2
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    I would guess that your overlap is what is causing the most of your smell. if you inject late enough that the exhaust valve is closed you might reduce the smell, but then you're not giving the fuel much time to atomize and the fuel doesn't burn completely, leaving you with smell.

  3. #3
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    what are your .006 cam specs..? can be a big difference between .050 and .006

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    i haven t been able to find the .006 specs and my cam card in .50. is there a way to calculate it?

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    it's s bit hard it depends on ramp rates on the lobes, what u can do for starters is set the boundary to all 520 then set the rpm to all zero then set the ECT to all the 110 and lower it by 5deg each time till ur idle stops going rich u may be around the 80 for your cam by the looks, then once u have idle sorted u know where u are so u can the adjust the rest using the boundary higher numbers delays it keep it smooth, if u download the spreadsheet from the other eoit thread use the instructions on that too dial the rest in, just remember u will have to add a little more to suit the .006 specs

  6. #6
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    ok i will give it a try. on my cam card it seas lobe lift is 364/364 if that means anything. i have to borrow hp tuners from a friend so ill report back when i try it.
    i have a scanner and when the car is idling the 02 sensors read .020 and i don't think there was any flue being added

  7. #7
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    at operating temp the 02's should be cycling at stoich unless ur in OL ? .020mv means lean

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    it cycles when i give it gas then go back to .020 to .030 only at idle

  9. #9
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    u may be OL at idle and someone may have leaned it out at idle to help with the smell which is the wrong way around it, if u use this EOIT correct it should help and u wont have to lean out idle for the smell, also going lean causes more of the emission smell so i can make it worse, just change it so ur CL at idle when u do the EOIT changes

  10. #10
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    ok made the changes iv got the ect at 80 right now could notices a big difference in drive ability smell dose seem less the flue trims are still 0.still have cam surge around 1400 to 1600 rpm the car seems to be really lean still at idle . the car has new 02 sensors and pull and clean the maf i did some log files if anyone could help idle.hpl
    hwy wot hit.hpl cam surge 1500 1600.hpl

  11. #11
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    need to see your tune file, your injectors are as close as u would want to get to maxing out, need to log more pids to see whats going on looks like ur in OL at idle to lean it out which u shouldnt need to be, having it leaner at idle can make it smell also it creates a lean emission that smells so with proper normal stoich fueling it should be good at idle and it may help with surging too going lean lowers torque which dosnt help with a cam

  12. #12
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    i just put a fast intake on but haven't had it tune for that. z06 1 - Copy.hpt

  13. #13
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    make all of the ECT EOIT table 80 that will help with cold start, ur in PE at idle and its commanding 1.040 which is richer then stoich so something is going on if its lean, first set the PE tps at idle to the same as the others 35 so it goes into CL and see how it idles if its adding fuel then u will have to add fuel in the maf table, see how that goes first do u have a WB ? also the PE afr is quite rich for n/a u could save some injector duty if it were leaner but ud need a WB to dial that in
    Last edited by 07GTS; 05-16-2017 at 07:00 AM.

  14. #14
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    Injection Timing Tool

    Quote Originally Posted by fbodyraing1 View Post
    i just put a fast intake on but haven't had it tune for that. z06 1 - Copy.hpt
    A few of us were working on an injection timing tool. It helps visualize cam timing versus fueling.

    Basically, you enter your cam specifications in the spaces required. Then, add data from your tune file. The graphs on the GRAPHS tab will show you what's happening.

    Version 19.0 of the file is attached. It has the specs from your setup. Take a look at the suggestions on the first tab and see how they compare to the graphs.

    There's another thread started under my username called "Injection Timing Assistance Requested" or something very similar...
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by scottt28; 05-16-2017 at 08:21 PM.

  15. #15
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    your IFR and vac/volts/offset is odd also do u have proper data for your injectors ? looks to be set up for vacuum ref reg for the range a n/a engine will see

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    Have you tuned VVE yet? You're lean in what looks like the "cruise" portion of your log file. You have a big cam and a new intake, I think I'd tune for VVE first.

    You have some knock over 4500 rpm. I would take a couple degrees of timing out of it to be safe.

    I also noticed some variances (12% or more in some places) in the STFT between left and right banks. I'm wondering if you might have a leak somewhere.

    96%+ on injector duty cycle at WOT. Geesh

  17. #17
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    im new at this lol. i had it professionally tune by a big shop and ive never been really impress with it. no i dont have a wb. sounds like i should just start over

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fbodyraing1 View Post
    im new at this lol. i had it professionally tune by a big shop and ive never been really impress with it. no i dont have a wb. sounds like i should just start over
    I can tell you from experience, learning this stuff ain't easy. The HP Tuners program is one thing, but things like vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks and other mechanical issues don't go away. Then there's the issue of mis-matched parts ( for example... your setup would probably improve dramatically with headers and exhaust...).

    Anyway... there are a number of "How To" type documents you can read by searching usernames schpenxel, mowton, GHuggins, DSteck, 5FDP to start. There are some threads with stickies too. Be prepared to spend a couple months working on the basics if you really want to tune yourself.

  19. #19
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    the injectors are stock this is the new idle with the changes ect all at 80 and pe at 35 at idle
    Attached Files Attached Files

  20. #20
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    i have lg super pros long tubs full exhaust .there isnt any exhaust leaks and ill look for vacuum leaks