ls7 eoit help for big cams

[scottt28]

My mistake... you said "full" exhaust. I took this to mean full factory exhaust.

Your ECT never gets above 145 or so. I think your STFTs are staying at zero for that reason. If you add the channel "Fuel System #1 Status (SAE)" to your list, you will see if it is in closed loop and how much fuel is being added or pulled by the ECM.

My point about exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks was just a suggestion. Those things can have a dramatic affect on tuning.

As far as injectors, I have a set available. Texas Speed built my engine and I ran it N/A for a couple thousand miles. The 57 lb injectors http://www.texas-speed.com/p-188-fas...-for-ls2.aspx? have been removed because I added a turbo. They are good for 650hp @ 75% duty cycle on gasoline.

[scottt28]

I've edited my previous post to include the Injection Timing Tool with YOUR cam specs and some of the data from your tune. I think the injection timing can be improved. The exhaust from my truck was cleaned up quite a bit using the suggestions. I also felt less sleepy when driving with the windows open

Even so, I think you should go back to the basics and stay out of WOT until you upgrade the injectors.

[fbodyraing1]

thanks scottt28 on the spread sheet i should be shooting for eoit at 440 ?

[SultanHassanMasTuning]

z06 1 - MAS.hpt give this a try and as mentioned please log more parameters


your injectors with NA mods usually is more than enough for that power, unless switching to ethanol

[scottt28]

Look at the information in the DOCS tab of the spreadsheet. Here's a screenshot. The suggestions tell you where your injection timing should end up. I don't think you should be shooting for any one particular number. Look at the suggestions

Once you have your cam specs and tune data loaded, SOIT/EOIT depends on engine RPM - and injector pulse width as shown in a WOT log file. You can then adjust your boundary, etc. until you've matched the suggestions and/or met the "nose test". I don't pretend to know it all, but this should get you close.

Fbody.JPG

In my opinion, you should probably put the car into SD mode and start tuning VVE first. Put the car into SD mode, get it warmed up, and start logging your STFTs at various "steady state" rpm and load ranges. The STFT "errors" or corrections from your log file are used to adjust VVE. There are complete instructions in posts by schpenxel and mowton and GHuggins.

Use a wideband O2 sensor to help dial in PE (power enrichment) and wide open throttle while keeping an eye on knock retard.

Then tune your MAF. Any changes in airflow through the engine, like an aftermarket intake or headers will affect MAF. MAF values are also affected by the placement of the MAF in the incoming air stream. Get the VVE dialed in and then work on the MAF.

I think my advice is sound, but some of the more experienced guys can chime in too.

[Eaglegoat]

Look at the information in the DOCS tab of the spreadsheet. Here's a screenshot. The suggestions tell you where your injection timing should end up. I don't think you should be shooting for any one particular number. Look at the suggestions

Once you have your cam specs and tune data loaded, SOIT/EOIT depends on engine RPM - and injector pulse width as shown in a WOT log file. You can then adjust your boundary, etc. until you've matched the suggestions and/or met the "nose test". I don't pretend to know it all, but this should get you close.

Fbody.JPG

In my opinion, you should probably put the car into SD mode and start tuning VVE first. Put the car into SD mode, get it warmed up, and start logging your STFTs at various "steady state" rpm and load ranges. The STFT "errors" or corrections from your log file are used to adjust VVE. There are complete instructions in posts by schpenxel and mowton and GHuggins.

Use a wideband O2 sensor to help dial in PE (power enrichment) and wide open throttle while keeping an eye on knock retard.

Then tune your MAF. Any changes in airflow through the engine, like an aftermarket intake or headers will affect MAF. MAF values are also affected by the placement of the MAF in the incoming air stream. Get the VVE dialed in and then work on the MAF.

I think my advice is sound, but some of the more experienced guys can chime in too.

Having headers I highly suggest doing all your tuning with your wideband, assuming it's a quality unit. Then you can verify the accuracy of your narrow band sensors, in their new locations, against the wideband afterward. IMO this results in an improved driving experience and performance.

[fbodyraing1]

i loaded that tune i change the idle because it was at 750 and shaking pretty good. but it was a night and day difference in drive ability. i could drive with the windows down witch was nice lol and didn't smell to bad

[scottt28]

i loaded that tune i change the idle because it was at 750 and shaking pretty good. but it was a night and day difference in drive ability. i could drive with the windows down witch was nice lol and didn't smell to bad

Couple things I noticed:

You're lean. Cruising around, the STFT (short term fuel trims) are positive... like +10 to +25. That's lean. Anything close to zero is a perfect burn and negative numbers mean rich. You're lean. I think you should tune VVE.

When you laid into it, the log shows knock above 4200 rpm. You'll probably want to pull somewhere between 2 and 5 degrees are certain RPMs to keep yourself out of trouble.

750 rpm at idle seems very low for a cam that big. I bet the higher setting is much better when sitting at a light