Hi,
In the tune can it be set so it cranks for a couple seconds before starting? Just to build a little oil pressure before it starts. Right now my Vette
can sit a week or 2 and when I hit the key it instantly fires.
Thank you
Christian
Hi,
In the tune can it be set so it cranks for a couple seconds before starting? Just to build a little oil pressure before it starts. Right now my Vette
can sit a week or 2 and when I hit the key it instantly fires.
Thank you
Christian
You wouldn't want to do that. The two variables here are number of revolutions before oil reaches every orifice, and amount of time for oil to reach every orifice. The number of revolutions wouldn't change whether you crank or fire the engine up suddenly, but the amount of time would drop if the motor would start sooner. You are better off letting it start.
If you ever get around to taking an engine apart, even one thats been sitting 20-30 years, I guess you'd be surprised to see how much oil is still on everything.Originally Posted by Zo64me
I have 2 LS1 cars that sit for more than two weeks at a time, they build oil pressure as soon as the engine starts turning by the starter.
You can't always believe the oil advertisements. Until someone shows me years worth of data and parts IN PERSON, I'm never going to believe that bullshit.
I seem to recall 15+ years ago there was a product available somewhere, it was an external oil pump you would plumb into your oiling system so you could circulate oil before even turning the key, maybe you could track one of those down. Otherwise sell the car if you can't just jump in it and enjoy it.
As Jason says, you can buy oil pre-pressurisation systems, if you really want. But I don't see a need. Even if it does fire instantly, its generating about 5hp... it won't do a thing to it, just don't jazz the throttle when cold, thats much worse!
99 TA, Texas Speed LS376, PRC heads, 233/239 cam, Fast 92mm, 95mm TB, card style MAF, Tick TR6060, Strange 4.11 12 bolt axle & clutchpack diff, Strano springs/dampers, Vette 18" wheels, Vette disks, CTS-V calipers, 16lb flywheel, long tube headers, no cats.
I had a L31 with a broken piston sit around my garage for 8 years without a pan on it. Opened it up to salvage a few parts for a build and all the bearings still had a nice layer of oil on them.
My LS1 takes a while to build oil pressure when I haven't started it for over a week..
Like 0 psi from 0-1000rpms..
Like I'm better off driving/thrashing it multiple times a day instead..
Oil filter related? Think I'm going to try a normal one you get a parts store next oil change..
What do you mean by normal? What's unusual about the filter you have now?
It's a K&N oil filter and I think the guts/valve is different to your ordinary oil filter so I think there's a chance it could be holding up oil psi build-up..
I was going to write "cheap" instead of "normal", but I got it for less than your average cheap one...
Dont start the engine and immediately put it in gear. Let the oil psi build up first. The engine can run for a short period of time without oil psi due to the oil already on the bearings and no load on the parts. When you load (put in gear and drive) with no oil is when you hurt the engine.
Same goes for holding the clutch in when cranking.
Thanks for all the replies! The car is a 02 Zo6 with a big cam 440ci N/A. When it starts I'm pretty sure there is a good amount of load on the bearings before pressure is there. It takes about 2-3 long seconds for pressure to starts to build. A lot of RPM have gone by, by then with cold idle of 1100rpm. I don't think the oil wedge that separates the crank from the bearing will be made with the small amount of oil that is left on the bearings. That is just my thoughts on it. Why do so many say most of the wear happens at startup?
Ben C, I have to hold the clutch because of the safety switch.
Thanks!
Christian
SacCityCorvette
you're going to kill the starters life too.
Yeah, those clutch safety switches suck.
I'm not familiar with disabling or bridging the switch, but if was me I would be looking into that.
It's been a while, but I found a simple solution to getting the oil moving before firing it up. Hold the throttle to the floor then crank it for a few second and when your ready to fire it up while cranking just let the throttle up.
With Throttle down it thinks it flooded so no fuel it added while cranking.
Thanks for all the replies!
Christian
Put a mechanical pressure test guage on and try it. Could just be a delay of the factory cluster guage system...
2010 /2SS/Long Tubes/ Magnaflow axle back/LSA Conversion/ 2 bar OS running / Stock Blower Pulley...for now
I don't like this method because by flooring the throttle body into clear flood you are maximizing cranking compression which puts max force on the connecting rod bearings when there is no oil pressure.
I know that when you are doing a compression test you want to open the throttle to maximize compression, but I don't think it puts nearly the force on the bearings as firing the engine up. I think those explosions of the engine firing puts much greater force on the bearings then
the compression of just cranking it over with no fuel. Just my thought.
Christian
Even if this is true it still would take something like 25 to 50 revolutions to get oil to the rod bearings and through them all the way back to number 1. It might even take 60+ to get it that far.
I know for a fact when I primed my engine after its been sitting for a week or two it takes at least 100 compression events just to see oil at the top of the engine where the pressure sensor is from the factory. I know because I took all the plugs out and counted camshaft event revolutions while cranking over with a starter before seeing any oil, around 27 seconds of spinning and nothing coming out. And this was after installing a brand new oil pump because I thought it meant the old one was bad and the delay freaked me out. The only reason I caught any of this I was priming the junkyard engines and noticed how long it took. For example if you go to the junkyard to compression test an engine, and fill the engine with oil before doing so, none of that oil will make it into the engine by the time you are done compression testing every cylinder. It takes almost three times as long as a typical compression test of 8 cylinders to get oil just to show up at the back of the engine, probably another 400-500 revolutions to finally get it through the lifters and top end.
Good info KingtalOn!
I think your over thinking it. Have you ever watched engine tests where they run it with no oil? I’ve seen them last an hour with no oil. When you crank it, are the lifters making a bunch of noise until you see pressure? I personally wouldn’t worry with it. Just start it and let it idle. It’s got enough oil on everything to keep it living. It’s not like the oil disappears as soon as it starts
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