Race tune questions. Logs and tune inside**

[Bodie]

Take a look at my log and tune, I am trying to figure out why the truck cuts fuel past 3600rpm, I try to shift at about 37-3800RPM. Fuel correction is the High Speed Gov, but I already have it raised really high. Truck runs mid 11s at 6800lbs, and has dynoed 880hp.

If theres anything that may make the truck faster in the tune, I am all ears as well. I am about to install a second pump, bigger injectors, and more air as well... I know Rail pressure is low at the moment.

Thanks Guys!

11.576-2.hpl34-2700RTtune.hpt

[Bodie]

This run was the same day, right before the first. The fuel rate holds but timing is all over the place. It spun off the line, but only ran a .01 slower.

11.586-2.hpl

[Dom_c13b]

Looks like your pump is having a hard time keeping up, getting another pump will help a lot. Could you give us some info on the truck, such as injectors, turbo, trans, etc.
Also don't be afraid to max out the all of the high speed governor stuff. Bring it right up to 8192. That should help it fuel a bit higher. Also, all of your timing tables are only scaled to 3500rpm, you should really scale everything out to 4500 or how ever far you feel like having redline.

[Moparmatty]

Where is it cutting fuel? Log shows a steady 2700us all the way through.

Is this a manual to auto swap truck with a manual valve body?

[Bodie]

Looks like your pump is having a hard time keeping up, getting another pump will help a lot. Could you give us some info on the truck, such as injectors, turbo, trans, etc.
Also don't be afraid to max out the all of the high speed governor stuff. Bring it right up to 8192. That should help it fuel a bit higher. Also, all of your timing tables are only scaled to 3500rpm, you should really scale everything out to 4500 or how ever far you feel like having redline.

On these runs the mods are as follows:

2003 Cummins Auto w/full manual VB
67.7FMW/83/90 T4
10.6mm Motorsports Stroker pump
125hp II Injectors
Hamilton 103 springs and billet pushrods

Last week I tore the truck down and found 3 broken push rods. I had noticed a rattle at high RPM and I assume that was it. I installed the second CP3 so rail pressure shouldn't be an issue anymore. I had planned on going to bigger injectors but everything I had lined up has fell through so I just put the 125s back in. I also found out the turbo had some nicks in the compressor wheel so I bought a cast 475 wheel and cover to throw on it until I can upgrade to a better setup.

My EGTs are really high, about 1900* so hopefully the added pressure, fixed push rods, and larger compressor with help get things to a reasonable level.

[Bodie]

Where is it cutting fuel? Log shows a steady 2700us all the way through.

Is this a manual to auto swap truck with a manual valve body?

I was looking at the fuel rate. Yes, it is manual to auto swapped truck with full manual VB.

[Dom_c13b]

I bet the push rods had a big influence on the high egt's you should be way lower than that if you are building any decent boost. I'd make sure you that you scale for a bit higher rpm and let her eat! What size turbine are you running?
Also you might want to take a little duty cycle out of your FCA, with the twin pumps you will over shoot all the time with how's it's setup now. I often set them up like the one in this tune and also the FCA current like this tune but only for single pumps that are having a hard time keeping up.

[Bodie]

The turbine is a 83 wheel in a 90 housing. I plan on going to a Forced Inductions billet 76/87/1.0. I appreciate the info on the FCA duty cycle!

[PhippsTune]

Can you send me your layout and Channels?