Sure
stock_tune.hpt <--Stock read
tune_1_idle.hpt <--Monoblade tune
Keep in mind I did this quick while he waited, I know there is a lot more I could iron out to make the car even better for him but he hasn't been back yet for final tune...he said I have to get his '68 Eleanor car done first...haha, Eleanor is almost done so I'll be actually tuning his '14 GT500 for reals, instead of the bullshit tune he had. That he paid $1000 bucks for...
Yeah the idle trims learn just like stft and ltft after a while of driving it will learn and get better but I would go ahead and log it and make adjustments so if he ever has the battery unplugged it wont do it and its better just to go ahead and get it closer for when the temperature changes theres not as much fluctuation later down the road.Originally Posted by Jn2
if it was a CJ monoblade I have had the tolerances be very close on some. So close that they actually got stuck when warmed up trying to close/open...After some driving they seemed to "Clearance" themselves and then acted fine. /
What do you mean by tolerances?
I have heard of that before, that could be what happened here, after driving it around some th blade could of just grooved itself the room it needs to open and close correctly
Some of the SCJs weren't made to the same tolerance so if you were to check the gap between the brass blade and the housing they are sometimes different even when they are in the same closed position. I haven't ran into this myself, but it is something I have heard other mentioned. This sometime causes the blade to jam shut or open slowly bc it has to unjam itself.
Oh ok I got yeah I think that issue was narrowed down I think any of them made Pre February 2014 had the possibility of having this issue.
Yea the stuck issue shouldn't be a problem if the TB was bought rencently. Always good to check though. The OP should still check the car out, reset fuel trims or delay closed loop to see how it really runs and it hasn't learned and somewhat corrected for a bad tune. I've seen this time and time again, "tooners" get lazy with them stock widebands and always in closed loop corrections.
Yeah I plan to use the STIT in a histogram to correct the airflow values for it, maybe it did learn the idle, if so, it's something I'll want to correct. This one is a 2010 GT500 so it has knock sensors, but no widebands
Uploaded new tune with the values I posted earlier in the thread and the car idles much better, it's idling around a 1.2* TB angle, but that is low enough to not cause it to hang when coming back down to an idle for stop lights.
So as another update, the customer reached out again saying the car was driving worse etc etc etc
I ended up removing the motor from the TB to see how the gears looked, and while the gears looked good I noticed a wear noise when I turned the blade, this led me to look at the bearing on the shaft and wouldn't you know the bearing was sticking out and no longer pressed in. I flipped the TB on it's side and the bearing practically fell out of the hole and was only being held in place by the gear. When this occurs the TB would jam at whatever angle it was at. I used a small screw driver to push it in and the TB started to move smoothly but still hard to turn(like a siezed bearing). I ended up using a smaller flathead to push the bearing all he way back into it's slow and the TB opened and closed with zero resistance.
I tossed it back on the car it immediacy idles perfectly like stock, I put my original tune from before I made any changes(same one I had on the car when I made the OP) and the car idles and drove like stock. We went for a drive to make power pulls and it was perfect still. After a few miles though(~15) it seemed the bearing popped out again and the idle started to stick again....
So to recap: Customer is sending TB back to Acufab to have them fix that bearing(even though Acufab kept trying to blame the tune for it not wanting to idle. It wasn't until we told them the issue followed the TB when we swapped it into my personal car and included a picture of the bearing which I attached below)
You are not the first person to experience issues with the Accufab TBs. There are numerous posts on a multitude of forums that have noted manufacturing inaccuracies with some of their TBs. Glad to hear that this fixed your issue. One must wonder how many other idle issues with various manufacture's TBs are caused by binding and misalignment (and not software related). I know from your experience that I will check the physical stuff first if I run into something like your issue in the future.
2012 Mustang GT with S/C
4Runner with S/C
Turbo/NOS Hayabusa - 320RWHP
Yeah I had heard of the issues with them and had positioned that to the customer but Acufab kept telling him it's the tune, so you can guess who sounds more believable, me or a multimillion dollar company.
All the while I had to spend 4 hours on a issue they told the customer was tune related and turned out to be the TB, I actually have half a mind of sending them an invoice for my time diagnosis their product.
I am not sure it is worth a stamp except the reply might be entertaining.
2012 Mustang GT with S/C
4Runner with S/C
Turbo/NOS Hayabusa - 320RWHP
oh yeah, I doubt they'd pay it...but more curious on how they try and back peddle their way out of it when they are the reason the car was back in my hands in the first place...they should now foot the bill for being the ones who sent him my way
Reviving an old thread, but may be worth going into, I have a 2014 GT500, but has motorsport dual 65mm tb, some kind of lumpy cams, overdrive blower pulley, idles fine once it gets to idle speed, which I have set at 1000rpms in HPTuners. If I sit still, rev it up & let it come back down to idle, it will fall to 300rpms or so, them if it doesn't die, it will eventually get back up to 1000rpms & idle nicely. If datalogged with the logging software, timing is all over the place, including some negative numbers, when it's trying to die. The problem must be in the timing, as once it gets to 1000rpms, timing comes up to something like 20? or so, and idles good. Idle timing source says idle feedback when it's idling at 1000, and idling good, but shows torque, when trying to die & idling bad. How do I figure out what it's using for idle timing, before it gets to idle feedback?
Post up the log and I'll have a look for you
Worked more on this yesterday, figured out that timing is being controlled by ecu on idle, as I can give it more air, & idle rpms stays the same. I have been playing with the dashpot settings, and now have it to where it hangs rpms between 2000 and 3000, but immediately goes to idle speed below 5mph, which is where I have dashpot mph set at, so it must be being caused by my dashpot settings.
I assume that this idle problem is because of the big cams, & high overdrive blower pulley, as big cams don't idle good anyway, and high pulley ratios make the engine very responsive to throttle opening. I do know this is kicking my ass tuning it, but I do have part throttle & WOT handled pretty good, still learning the software, as I come from mechanical FI, & aftermarket EFI systems. This having to burn the ecu for 2 1/2 minutes just to try one small change is for the birds! Live changes have really spoiled me!
I will be back on this later on today, I will post up a startup & drive log file, and I really appreciate any help that can be given! Thanks!
Here is a log where I fired it up & drove away. You can see the throttle hanging, and then releasing as soon as I stop.
5log.hpl
Also, here is a log file where I fired it up several times, and let it idle, then put it in second gear & choked it dead, fired it back up and let it idle. Actually doing pretty good, but sometimes it won't fire right up. Not sure what all the settings do, have read & been using the tuning school's book, great read, learned a lot, but it doesn't cover all settings. Maybe some things are different in GT500's? The book seems to deal with 5.0's more than anything.
log6.hpl
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