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Thread: LC-1 Calibration

  1. #1
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    LC-1 Calibration

    I think I figured out how to set this thing up.

    This is what I did.

    Pulled WB02 out.
    Turned key on till sensor was hot.
    Hit ground calibration button. Key off.
    Put WB02 back into exhaust. (Sensor is hot!)
    My LC-1 gets its ground from a wire leading back to the passenger head front bolt. Power comes from the fuse box.
    Opened LMProgrammer and set it to 2.5 volts/2.5 volts and 10/18 AFR. 1/6 of a second. Program. Close.
    Now since its 0-5 volts, 10-18 afr, then at 2.5 volts it should be telling HPT its putting out a 14.0 afr. I opened the user configuration for the LC-1 while I wasn't scanning. You can't seem to open it while your scanning, but if you leave it open, you can change the equation in realtime.
    So the equation has:

    Volts/.625 + some #. Mine uses 10.07. Leave this window open, then click on the "VE - Wideband O2, AFR" histogram. Configure it to show 3 decimal places. Start the scanner. If your equation is correct, you should see the 1 cell populating with numbers near 14.000. The longer you let it run the more accurate since it is averaging. Now, at this point you could change the "+" value in the other window. In my example, if you changed the 10.07 to 8.00, you would immediately see the AFR drop. Stop the scanner and clear the histogram. Lets say you were pretty close to 14.000. Try 10.06 or 10.08 depending. Start the scanner again. This is all while you have the User config LC-1 still open mind you. It should now start showing you the average afr again and it should be closer or farther away. Each time, make a change, stop scanner, and restart it to see a new average. I got mine within a hunderedth or so. When you set the histogram back to show 1 decimal place, it should read rock steady at 14.0. Go back into LMProgrammer and set it to 0-5v, 10-18 afr.

    Now this is linear and will only be really accurate near 14.0 I think. The only way to make it really accurate would be to divide the 5 volts up into the 60? points that the list option will let you do and figure out the values at each point so it can develop a curve. That would be really time consuming!
    Last edited by PurplePiss; 06-27-2006 at 02:54 PM.
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  2. #2
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    In the help file it says the stock LC-1 equation should be...

    volts / 0.3324 + 7.35 ?

    Am I setup wrong?
    www.outlawpontiacdragseries.com
    Come race with us in MA, PA, and VA!

    2005 GTO A4 - Spintech X-pipe with Powerstick mufflers, IAT relocate, Volant, !scoops, !cowlgasket, !skid plate, LM-1, HPT2.0/MPVI Pro USB, 275x40x17 Nitto DR, rolled fenders, Pedders 2985 springs, Britax baby seat with 5 point harness.
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  3. #3
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    well... for 0~5volts 10~18 AFR your formula needs to be
    volts/ 0.625 + 10
    if ther is a voltage offset you need to compensate
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  4. #4
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    so if you want 5volts on the volt meter and get 4.78 thats a .22 differance so i think take .22/.625=.352 so volts/.625+10.352 get it
    2000 Firebird,2002 O.S.,LQ4 370,Borg Warner S475,truck mani.,Eagle crank,Callies Compstar Rods,Wiseco-11 4.030 pistons 9.4:1 comp.,LS3CNC heads,LS3 intake,NW92mm throttle body,ID1000 injectors,BTR trunion upgrade,LJMS STG3 cam,LS7 Lifters,ARP Studs-bolts,Frozen Boost A to W intercooler,JGS 60MM BOV,2 40mmJGS Wastegates,4L80E trans wth segment swap,CircleD 3400 single disk,MOSER 12 3.31gears ,BMR K-Mem.,2 Walboro 450 pumps,Returnstyle fuelsystem MAGNAFUEL regulator.
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  5. #5
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    The help file and canned LC-1 config are not correct then. They use
    volts / 0.3324 + 7.35. Maybe its a different AFR range than 10-18?
    www.outlawpontiacdragseries.com
    Come race with us in MA, PA, and VA!

    2005 GTO A4 - Spintech X-pipe with Powerstick mufflers, IAT relocate, Volant, !scoops, !cowlgasket, !skid plate, LM-1, HPT2.0/MPVI Pro USB, 275x40x17 Nitto DR, rolled fenders, Pedders 2985 springs, Britax baby seat with 5 point harness.
    Stock:13.36@104
    Mods in sig:[email protected]

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    or take it and look at what the crossing point for 14.7 for your 10~18 AFR

    and then set your voltages to match the value that would = 14.7

    next you go to scanner and yu should se an average of 14.7
    if its not 14.7...then shift the equation until it gets there
    ..
    once its at 14.7 then you should be all good

    then go back and set your AFR to yoru desired outputs

    it wont matter if its calibrated correctly at this point as you are just setting teh voltage to get 14.7 voltage correct

    you should always make sure you have propery calibrated the sensor before you use it...
    you cant just guess on the sensor being hot either..you really should atlease hook up the status ID so you know when its ready

    to do a free air calibration...
    make sure the sensor is in free air..
    get sensor up to full temperature
    hit yoru calibation button..

    to do a FULL recalibration
    remove sensor, disconnect sensor
    turn on LC1 for 10-15 seconds...(wil be giving an error 2 blink code)
    turn off LC1, reconnect sensor(still in fre air)
    turn on LC1...let it sit til its done(may take upwards of 2 minutes or more...goes thru heater calibration and sensor calibration...bunch of blinking..it will eventualy go solid unless you have a problem with the sensor)
    then turn it off...put your sensor in teh exhaust..turn back on and begin using it
    -Scott -

  7. #7
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    the LC one reads 8.3 to 21...... so it is the wrong range (this is per LC1 tech on the re forum)
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  8. #8
    Advanced Tuner Billf6531's Avatar
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    If the LC-1 from the factory is 8.3 - 21 afr, wouldn't that make the formula volts/.3331 + 8.3?
    Best regards,
    Bill
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  9. #9
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    I get...
    volts/0.3937 + 8.3 for your 8.3~21 range

    though factory settings are 7.35~22.39 per their owners manual...

    you really need to connect to it and find out for sure in the LM-Programmer
    Last edited by S2H; 07-03-2006 at 02:50 PM.
    -Scott -