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Thread: E39 ECM running standalone on LDK | having trouble getting it running

  1. #21
    All right, after a long delay I have some updates. AFI did update the OS and calibration successfully (I think). The MAP is now reading correctly, VATS is off, and it is set for a 2L engine. I hooked it up and cranked it a little, but it did not start. After looking at the DTC's and reading the log it looks to me like there are some issues. Here is what I have found:

    DTC's:
    - P0098
    - P0122
    - P0223
    - P0463
    - P0651
    - P1682
    - P2122
    - P2227

    The TPS is also reading 100% regardless of the pedal position. I swapped throttle bodies since my last update so it's possible the one I have now is dead, but based on the DTC's I'm led to believe it's something else. P1682 has to do with powering the ECU and P0122 and P0223 are related to the TPS which is integrated into the throttle body.

    After the cranking I did confirm (by removing a spark plug) that I am getting fuel into the cylinder. So, I'm lead to believe I'm close and need to figure out what is going on with the throttle. Any ideas?

    Regarding the TIAP, I need to ask AFI. I have used all the connectors on their harness except for the BOV which I don't use. So, even if I added the sensor it would have nowhere to connect.

    Daniel

  2. #22
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    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, on my LNF Cobalt if I press the throttle pedal all the way down and try to start the car it will only crank over but will not start. Like if you were trying to clear out fuel if it got flooded. Perhaps the ECU is reading that TPS at 100% and it's doing the same thing. My hunch is once you get the TPS reading correctly it'll start. However, without the TMAP in there I'm not sure how well (or if at all) the engine will run.
    Last edited by Jaizero; 11-17-2017 at 09:54 AM.

  3. #23
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    I was thinking about your build and just realized a stock application also uses the TIAP for charge air temp. That one might be significant, lol. Sure GM software can be configured to use the MAF for charge air temp but not sure if hptuners has those config cals available.

    I guesss you could use a stand alone boost controller to run the wastegate but ... why, when u have a perfectly good boost controller inside the stock ECM .

    I took a quick look to the website where u got the harness, and seems like they spend more time boosting NA ecotecs, not much work with boosted engines from the factory.

    So the new OS they gave you, did they start from a NA OS and then modify? Sounds like it.
    Personally I?d consider starting from a factory boosted application and modify from that. I may be alone on this but I?d still add a TIAP and start by flashing in an OS from an factory boosted application like a 2013 Buick Regal turbo, that has and LHU/LDK in it. It?s also flex fuel which it?s only a matter or time before u start considering ethanol.

  4. #24
    The OS has been updated to that of a '11 Regal CXL Turbo. There is still no TIAP sensor. I'm wondering if TIAP is not used on LHU (regal) engines? There were other changes made between LNF and LHU (only one knock sensor for example). The harness is made by a third party vendor which is far more familiar with GM than AFI appears to be.

    It turned out the wiring was set for an '12 Regal, but the updated OS was set for an '11 Regal (they use different throttle bodies). After swapping back to the LNF throttle body and installing a new pig tail I have a functioning TPS.

    I was able to get my first puff of life, but only one. Attached is the log file. You can see a single point where engine speed goes over 500rpm; this was the puff. I don't see anything glaringly wrong and I can definitely smell fuel after a bunch of cranking. It's close, but could someone take a look at the file?

    Thanks,
    Daniel

    first fire.hpl

  5. #25
    and the calibration file...would be great if someone can confirm this is setup for a blow-through MAF.

    updated OS caterham.hpt

    Daniel

  6. #26
    Well, I might have made some progress. At very least I have more data. Here is what happened:

    - Tried cranking engine again with and without MAF connected (thinking that disconnecting it should put the ECM into limp home mode and eliminate any calibration issues with it --> this was a suggestion from AFI). Neither worked, but in the process I did get a backfire that blew off the charge pipe at the throttle body (I didn't have the hose clamp tight since I'm just trying to get it to idle).
    - I didn't notice the charge pipe was disconnected, re-attached the MAF and gave it another crank (because obviously repeating the same thing over and over will work). This resulted in the engine starting and slowly increasing speed to about 3500rpm (per log). I was in such hysteria at the time since, well, its started(!), but also because the engine speed was increasing, that I shut the engine off and forgot to save the log file. I did manage to take a screen shot which is how I determined the approximate engine speed.

    So, where do I go from here? I'll share the same info with AFI, but I think this confirms the primary issue is the MAF calibration.

    Daniel

  7. #27
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    if you have a baro installed try switching the map configuration to TC-MAP-TIAP-BARO this will remove the TCIAP from the calculations. This will limit overall boost and you will have to tune off the map sensor alone but it is possible a missing TCIAP sensor could cause issues. if it doesn't change anything then switch it back to stock which is TC-MAP-TIAP-TCIAP.

    Try switching Engine- Driver demand Calculated- Enabled.
    If you dont have a VSS the switch the transmission vss to No sensor.

    i believe when the ecu sees an open circuit on the vss line that it fails to trigger the low vss idle parameter which causes a climb in rpm.
    also look into calibrating the tps/etc again particularly since you switched it over to a different year unit. it might require some run time to allow the idle to learn in.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  8. #28
    I disabled the VSS, but I was not able to find the driver demand you mentioned.

    With just the VSS the logger is still showing the same speed. The car now starts relatively consistently (maybe the ECM is learning) but Engine speed just escalated each time. Speaking to AFI they convinced me the Engine is running on speed-density at low speed so I don?t think the MAF is the issue (for the moment).

    I tried startling it with the baro and tciap setting and got basically the same result (starts, but Engine ramps).

    Is the next step to adjust the VSS calibration so it shows zero?

    Daniel
    Last edited by TurboWood; 12-16-2017 at 10:05 AM.

  9. #29
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  10. #30
    Thanks, that's already disabled. Was there something else I needed to change?

  11. #31
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    like i stated before switch it to enabled
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  12. #32
    Wow, sometimes I'm slow. Enabling the calculated VSS didn't appear to do anything. The logged vehicles speed is still stuck at 158mph. I tried cranking a few times, but didn't get it to fire.

    Daniel

  13. #33
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    im out of guesses.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  14. #34
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    - P0098 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High ( appears this is the temp sensor in the MAF, what MAF are you using? )

    - P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Circuit Low (you have a harness problem or you need a new throttle body, or it's not tuned for the throttle you have, i wouldn't ignore this one)

    - P0223 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage (again wiring or throttle problems, i wouldn't ignore this one)

    - P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage ( what fuel pump / fuel level sensor are you using?, low priority to fix this)

    - P0651 - Sensor Reference Voltage B Circuit/Open ( started to look like you have harness issues or a damaged ECM. i wouldn't ignore this one. )
    That 5V reference is critical since it provides 5V to the crank sensor, the "multifunction intake air sensor", vehicle speed sensor and the clutch sensor.

    - P1682 - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 (are we looking at another harness issue? )
    conditions for setting: The ECM detects that there is greater than 3 V difference between the ignition run relay signal and the engine controls ignition relay signal circuits for less than 1 s.

    - P2122 - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1 Circuit Low Voltage (are you using the right electronic accel pedal? i wouldn't ignore this one)

    - P2227 - Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Performance (not sure but i thought the baro sensor resides inside the MAF, i wouldn't ignore this one)

    stop trying to start the engine until you fix some of these fundamental problems.
    Where are you located.

    Let me know if you need more details on these codes.

  15. #35
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    comparing your tune to a stock 2011 regal turbo auto

    as others stated you are configured to use a TIAP.
    BOV turned off should be fine given your hardware.
    Overboost/underboost diags disabled, i'd prefer to use them and tune them correctly.
    i'll asume you dont have a post cat O2 sensor.
    Flex fuel diags are disabled, its only a matter of time before you'll want to run ethanol blends so you might as well install a flex fuel sensor.
    TIAP codes and wastegate codes are disabled
    knock sensor 2 diags are disabled
    starter and alternater diags are disabled

    doesn't seem like any show stopper in the tune. i'd focus on sorting out the harness / diagnostics listed above.

  16. #36
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    This ECU is new to me, but looking at the MAP sensor linear and offset settings, they look awful high to me. Are those the correct settings?

  17. #37
    Thanks for the support guys. I have a little more information.

    All (or at least most) of the high or low signal faults should be turned off. The reason for this is the harness is wired with only a few common 5V and ground wires that feed everything instead of having dedicated lines back to the ECM. The performance faults are still active so we can detect issues with the sensor, but these high/low faults should be turned off. The main reason for this is to simplify the harness since they use larger gauge wire than the factory harness (it's already ~1" in diameter at the largest point).

    What remains unexplained at the moment are:

    - VSS: why am I seeing 158mph all the time?
    - Baro: linked to P2227, do I need this? Where is it?
    - IAT: if this is in the MAF, how will it work properly with a blow-through setup?

    Daniel

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboWood View Post
    Thanks for the support guys. I have a little more information.

    All (or at least most) of the high or low signal faults should be turned off. The reason for this is the harness is wired with only a few common 5V and ground wires that feed everything instead of having dedicated lines back to the ECM. The performance faults are still active so we can detect issues with the sensor, but these high/low faults should be turned off. The main reason for this is to simplify the harness since they use larger gauge wire than the factory harness (it's already ~1" in diameter at the largest point).

    What remains unexplained at the moment are:

    - VSS: why am I seeing 158mph all the time?
    - Baro: linked to P2227, do I need this? Where is it?
    - IAT: if this is in the MAF, how will it work properly with a blow-through setup?

    Daniel

    Causes of P2227 code:

    Faulty MAF (mass air flow) sensor
    Faulty BARO sensor
    Faulty ECM
    Short or open condition in the BARO sensor circuit
    Sticking idle air control valve
    Clogged intake inlet- debris in airbox
    Faulty throttle position sensor (TPS)


    Yes you need the Barometric pressure sensor. An accurate atmospheric pressure reading is needed to by the ECM to maintain delicate tasks such as fuel delivery. Depending on the vehicle, it usually just sits out in open air clipped to a bracket on the engine. The LNF ECU has the barometric pressure sensor built in, so there is no external sensor.

    Blow through MAF works fine. It needs to be tuned of course, but the ECU would just see the same (or very close to the same) IAT1 and IAT2 temps.

    Check this out regarding your VSS issue.. https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...h-all-the-time
    Last edited by Jaizero; 12-20-2017 at 02:02 PM.

  19. #39
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboWood View Post
    Thanks for the support guys. I have a little more information.

    All (or at least most) of the high or low signal faults should be turned off. The reason for this is the harness is wired with only a few common 5V and ground wires that feed everything instead of having dedicated lines back to the ECM. The performance faults are still active so we can detect issues with the sensor, but these high/low faults should be turned off. The main reason for this is to simplify the harness since they use larger gauge wire than the factory harness (it's already ~1" in diameter at the largest point).

    What remains unexplained at the moment are:

    - VSS: why am I seeing 158mph all the time? Because the sensor port is in open loop.
    - Baro: linked to P2227, do I need this? Where is it?
    - IAT: if this is in the MAF, how will it work properly with a blow-through setup? You take a GM Open Element IAT from say an LT1 application and wire that to your maf sensor IAT Signal wire and mount it in an ambient air location. These sensors are commonly swapped into place when V8 guys go to full Speed Density Boosted Applications with removed MAF Sensors.

    Daniel
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  20. #40
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    can you try starting it one more time, post the log file and report what diagnostics set.
    i ask to start it one more time since some codes only run when the engine is turning.
    also sent you a message.