Whipple 2.9 on a chevy ss can someone check my tune the car is not running right

[Gear_artist]

Goodmorning I installed a whipple 2.9 on my m6 chevy ss and have been doing a remote tune just to get it close and safe until my appointment for a dyno tune. The issue is the car is just flat out lazy because I'm only getting 4 degrees of timing at wot, well I've told the tuner about this a few times and this last flash they are asking what is the issue witch really made me mad. This whole process has taken a month and probly 20 flashes and at this point I'm done with that shop. I see they are running me on full sd but for about 2 weeks they were scaling maf and then 2 weeks scaling vve so why turn off maf and I really want to run hybrid. I'm not pro tuner so thats why I got a shop to remote for me but I know enough that something is right so I'm wanting to try to figure this out any info
will be greatly appreciated the software im using is beta 3.7

[Gear_artist]

trying to figure out how to add the log

[Gear_artist]

I'm thinking the site is not letting me upload the log due to size its 9.1mg but says max size of 9.54

[GHuggins]

Only thing I see to pull timing is iat settings - will need the log with all of the timing pids in it - you can make a shorter one to display... Tell them to disable desoot and go to an enhanced OS to eliminate the baro update since it's available for yours - otherwise sd will never be right as shown from their sd table... They also need to fix the cylinder charge temp biasing table for the blower... Log as much as you can in a quick log that will show what you need us to look at...

[Gear_artist]

Only thing I see to pull timing is iat settings - will need the log with all of the timing pids in it - you can make a shorter one to display... Tell them to disable desoot and go to an enhanced OS to eliminate the baro update since it's available for yours - otherwise sd will never be right as shown from their sd table... They also need to fix the cylinder charge temp biasing table for the blower... Log as much as you can in a quick log that will show what you need us to look at...

Thanks I'm going to try and tackle this myself Ill get a short data log like you mentioned first with the spark pids just so you can get a visual whats going on. I did turn maf back just to see what would happen and I found it when I got into the throttle it would go dangerous lean. At this point Im sure maf and ve will need work.

[Gear_artist]

Got a shorter log, it seems to pull good as long as I'm not wot as soon as I go wot it pulls all the timing. Also I notice the idle is not nearly as smooth in pure sd like what the tuner has me running now. I also included the tune from the car I bought the whipple from.

[jsllc]

So first of all you are not running SD but rather VVE. Some tuners want to tell you they are the same but they are not even close. VVE is never going to be exact (I have attached a picture of yours). It is a group of areas with formulas for each. Each zone will calc different and zone boundaries will be an issue. It's design was to be a backup for MAF failure. MAF will never be better than +-1% and will vary with environment. SD leaves gaps and does not scale well. No perfect solution. If you are going to use the this use MAF first and VVE as backup (in my opinion as it is how it is designed). IF you want to run SD then you will need to apply the patch. Something that really should be done on an e38 and forced induction. The ECM when run as designed scales well beyond that the car can do. Custom OS SD option you have is used for e38 which lacks many of the forced induction features.

The fueling you are running on your VVE setup is way too rich compared to commanded in PE. Should match commanded. PE is 11.95 AFR using 14.7 which prevailing thoughts say is too lean. I do not see timing being pulled other than TQ mgmt and burst knock. Use the PID list attched and replace the the WB with yours. Log the issue and document the time in the log you are talking about so we can see the problem.

[Gear_artist]

So first of all you are not running SD but rather VVE. Some tuners want to tell you they are the same but they are not even close. VVE is never going to be exact (I have attached a picture of yours). It is a group of areas with formulas for each. Each zone with calc different and zone boundaries will be an issue. It's design was to be a backup for MAF failure. MAF will never be better that +-1% and will vary with environment. SD leaves gaps and does not scale well. No perfect solution. If you are going to use the this use MAF first and VVE as backup (in my opinion as it is how it is designed). IF you want to run SD then you will need to apply the patch. Something that really should be done on an e38 and forced induction. The ECM when run as designed scales well beyond that the car can do. Custom OS SD option you have is used for e38 which lacks many of the forced induction features.

The fueling you are running on your VVE setup is way too rich compared to commanded in PE. Should match commanded. PE is 11.95 AFR using 14.7 which prevailing thoughts say is too lean. I do not see timing being pulled other than TQ mgmt and burst knock. Use the PID list attched and replace the the WB with yours. Log the issue and document the time in the log you are talking about so we can see the problem.

Much appreciated just finished a log with the provided config and youre right torque manegment is pulling a ton. This test drive was also with tc off just to rule that out. I really want the car to run in hybrid mode like its designed I loaded an old maf only tune and the idle is way more stable and don't hear a misfire at idle.

[jsllc]

FYI you are still MAF Failed. So this log is not using MAF. I believe you will have to run the patched OS so that the BARO fix is active. An e38 by default updates BARO when it believe is can as it has no dedicated BARO. The patched OS changes this so BARO is not updated while in boost.

[GHuggins]

Apply the SD air mode patch too...

[Gear_artist]

I loaded a previous tune that was using maf just to see if it would clean up my idle. So looks like I need to start from scratch?

[jsllc]

Hard to know. Me I start at stock and add all items I KNOW I need and then adjust from there.

[Gear_artist]

Really do appreciate the help guys, I wont have much time to work on the car this has been a real headache since the car was being remote tuned from a "reputable" tuner. started the remote tuning the end of oct. and still have a car that doesn't run to its potential. I tuned my 04 gto with a small cam about 5 years ago but this car is way more complicated it seems. I live in the south charlotte area so I have a few more options as far as pro tuners.

[jsllc]

So I do not know how far you are from Mr. Huggins but if you do not want to spend the time. Drive up see him. In a day you will have a good based to start from. Not 100% but well on your way to 100%. If not just relax and take the time it needs to get right.

[Gear_artist]

So I do not know how far you are from Mr. Huggins but if you do not want to spend the time. Drive up see him. In a day you will have a good based to start from. Not 100% but well on your way to 100%. If not just relax and take the time it needs to get right.

Looks like he's about 3 hours away and I won't be able to make it out there on a weekday this month. I may tackle it some more, just pretty frustrated about it now, luckily it's not my daily.

[jsllc]

I get that. For the 3 hours it will save you weeks. I started knowing nothing (some may say I am still there). It took a year to really understand how this all goes together, understand what I was seeing, build the right filters, tables/graphs and then understand what to change and how. Once you have the understanding and tools then it goes much faster. Not to discourage you but rather to have you not get discouraged by thinking it all came easy for the rest of us.