Since my rebuild Ive been having this really annoying problem where my car stalls 50% of the time when returning to idle under closed loop fuel conditions.
I have tried increasing idle, a number of injector setups, spark and dashpot with no changes. Any advice where to look?
30-2.hpl
e85 - rebuild 30.hpt
Happens in the attached log at 1:39, 2:23, 3:33
I can see a few things wrong.
First question, what injectors are you using?
For a start it looks like the pulse widths are getting really small at low rpm (<1ms). Injectors could be too big at low flows or the data you are using is not correct.
I don't like what you have done with the injector flow rate multipliers vs pressure - setting them all to 1.0 is wrong. (on everything i've seen)
Looks like its on the low slope when decel just before idle. Large numbers in the STFT could mean that you need to increase the low slope number to lean it out.
I see in your base fuel table you have 1.04 lambda (15.3afr) at low rpm, low throttle. Way too lean. I would leave it at 1.00
Do you have the closed loop oxygen sensor running off the factory narrowband sensor or wideband analog output?
I once tried innovate mtx-l wideband analog output 0-1v and it ran like crap. Stick with the factory narrowband.
Your idle airflow numbers are waaaay lower than stock. Why did you change them? I'd put them back to stock.
Put up a copy of your base tune stock original petrol so we can make better comparisons.
Scroll thru your logs and look at the average air mass g/s at idle (also look at 500,600,700,800,900m1000rpm etc) then compare those numbers to what you have in your tables. looks way way out to me.
The more I look thru your map the more things I see incorrect.
I would start again with a base stock map, just change stoich to 9.85, change the fuel injector data to whatever the injector manufacturer recommends then go for a drive.
Its funny the more I stuff around I usually end up back to stock (or near stock) Those ford engineers/calibrators aren't silly.
Completely agree, 1000s of hours of R&D doesn't account for nothing. I think a lot of people change values for the sake of changing them. If it isn't causing any issues, don't change it.Originally Posted by luke111
yeah wish I could reset it back to factory but I don't have the factory tune which is annoying. Long story but its been tuned by two pro tuners via sc3 which was stolen out of my car. Since then ive been using hptuners.
Car was running really well with most of the tune as is, until the engine was completely rebuilt (new built bottom end and refreshed head) and i fit a new fuel system at the same time. Now I'm having the Idle issues.
Injectors are not 100% known. They are the bosch 100's and pretty sure they are KPM although small chance they are ID1000's. Either way none of the values i use for any of them work out of the box and have needed alot of tuning. If i just tune slopes they end up being massively wide apart and there is some strange behaviour. Since then i tuned the offsets and they seem much better on idle, cruise and wot.
Yes i am using the innovate with its narrowband analoge output, I will need to get another bung welded into the dump before i can go back to using the stock but like i said earlier it was running in the config for a year or so without any issues prior to the rebuild.
anyway guess I should focus on trying to get it re-flashed to standard. I believe without the standard factory tune its a bit of a pain in ass and will need me to pay ford some $$$ to sort it? Any advice on reflashing a different standard tune and how to change VIN etc or is this outside of what can be done with hptuners?
As you said, best to start from a stock tune.
I have some settings that hold on to idle very well. I looked at a number of stock FG tunes and noticed that there are at least two different tuning styles there.
I had a stalling problem and adopted some tables from the second ford tuning style I observed and solved my problem.
The only tables I adopted were Map @ zero airmass, Map Per airmas, Idle airflow, dashpot airflow.
You will notice it will drive differently as you decelerate. I checked your tune and it does not use these tables. I can send you my tune and just do a copy and paste.
I will only give you the tune with those tables if you give an undertaking to follow thru with it and post results with feedback. I take its an auto.
Hey turbotrana. Yes and yes that would be awesome. Will definitely put the results back on here after testing. Do you still have my email addy or want me to send you something to get it started?
And yes it?s an auto.
My Fg Turbo tune
Ignore most of that engine tune except for the tables I mentioned above. Do a compare with your tune and you will see a difference In the Map Per Airmass and Map @ Zero Airmass in the idle area of the tables. In one table it is only one box difference, in the other table there are about 6 boxes that need changing. This richens part of the tuning map in the idle area which I think is a little lean and where the engine may dip into under some conditons.
Copy all of the tables in Idle airflow and dashpot airflow in their entirety.
I would change the map tables first to see effect and then secondly idle and dashpot airflow which certainly holds onto the idle. I have yet to check which of those changes were most influential in stopping the idle stalls in my FG.
I copied those maps from another stock FG falcon ford tune and suspect it may have been addressing idle issues. They are Ford tuning numbers, not mine.
In this tune I also have a good transmission tune. I have copied alot of it from a shop tune but I have modified it so that it is soft shifting at normal driving speed where as the shop tune it just slammed into gear in normal driving. Alot less farting.
Last edited by turbotrana; 03-22-2018 at 01:22 AM.
finally had a chance to muck around with the tune and load it up.
I always thought it was dashpit or idle air related so I loaded those two up first. Also because the map per airmass and map @ zero airmass had a bunch of change.
They have fixed my return to idle issue. I didn't change anything else (except charging my battery because my car sat for a while).
will keep an eye and not change anything else for a week or so while getting some km's in. will report back.
thanks @turbotrana!!!!! Legend, what car did these oem settings come from?
It is one of the FG tunes in the tune repository. If you can't find it I will give it a look.
Personally I think the main problem lies with the SD maps. What the adjustments to the idle/dashpot airflow tables are doing is not allowing the engine to go into a part of the SD maps which is causing the main part of the problem as you are getting a slower return to idle from the idle/dashpot airflow table adjustment.
So I think ford missed tuning this part of the SD maps which are not normally visited. Muck around with parts of the tune and then you starts visiting these areas. You are better off tuning slightly richer in these idle areas of the tuning map than leaner.
BTW, with those settings in over three years my FG has never stalled.
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