L99/6l80e transplant

[jokes54321]

Hello all,

My first post here on HPtuners, after hours of reading various opinions on how best to tune this or that.

I transplanted a L99/6L80e from a 2011 Camaro SS into my very stripped down 68 Camaro. I'm pretty much running the stock tune, minus VATs, disabled DOD, changed settings so my Dakota Digital gauges would work, disabled the SES lights for components I don't have, and lowered the temps for the cooling fans.

I've been testing my zero to 60 time and so far, my best run is 4.6, but it feels like I hit a rev limiter or something between shifts. I know I can get this time down lower if I can figure out what's causing this dropout.

This is where I need some help. Some seem to indicate disabling TM is the right choice, others feel it's bad for the transmission and suggest keeping on, but reducing it. I suspect they're all right and the answer depends on other factors such as how much HP/TQ, how heavy the vehicle is, etc, etc.

For my 68 Camaro, I'd be surprised if it weighed over 2100 pounds for how stripped down it currently is. I plan on taking it to a local dyno tuner once I can afford to install the DOD/AFM delete kit, but in the meantime, any suggestions on what I could adjust to get rid of this cutout between shifts?

Denny

[5FDP]

If you have the current tune file and logs of the issue it may be easier to see what might be going on.

Make sure your scanner is setup with lots of info that would be required for what you are doing. All the common things like rpm, intake temps, coolant temps, spark timing, knock retard, cylinder airmass, injector pulse width, dynamic airmass, MAF, MAP, fuel trims, commanded EQ or AFR and anything else.

Double check that the tire size and gear ratio in the tune match what you are running in the vehicle.

The 6L80e should always have the TM active to keep it happy and alive. Tweaking it here and there is okay but disabling it fully is not advised.

[jokes54321]

Hi,

Thank you for replying. I suppose log data would be helpful

It will probably be a few days before I can get out and run some laps, but I attached the current tune. It occurred to me this may not be a stock tune, as someone could have flashed this E38 before I got my hands on it.

Anyhow, I appreciate the assistance.

Denny

[5FDP]

It seems fairly stock other than the changes you made.

Does the gear/tire settings match what you are running in the car?

There is some power to be had with the calibration still. Using a wideband here is a key though. Leaning out the PE and adding some timing could get you a little horsepower still.

[parajm219]

Increase the shift RPM. Without seeing a data log it would seem you are not at the MPH set and the RPM shift point is set at 6000. Realizing that my 2011 is not the same car or motor my speed shift point is at 28 mph and my RPM shift point is at 6800 RPM. The TCM looks for MPH first then RPM second if I am stating that correctly.