Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Need some guidance in base running airflow & timing

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training AnimeFunTV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    24

    Need some guidance in base running airflow & timing

    So I'm running into some new issues.

    Recently I installed a FAST LSxrt intake on my 6.0L LQ4, I made the proper fuel injector adjustments into HP Tuner and the engine started right up but I'm having some issues.

    At startup the engine will fire up but as its coming down to idle rpm it stumbles and dies. This is coupled at the exact moment when the A/C compressor cycles on and off, I'm assuming that the extra load from the compressor when its momentarily engaged by the PCM is too great for engine and it just stumbles and dies. I can hold the throttle open slightly and slowly let it down and the engine will idle just fine. I don't know of a way to stop the A/C compressor to cycle or to compensate for the momentary load from the A/C Compressor.

    Second issue is when coming to a stop and putting it into park, as soon as I shift from any gear to park the engine will surge high between 1.5-2k rpm and then will slowly return to idle. I know this is throttle hang but I'm not sure at how to reduce it.

    Lastly, My current tune is on speed density as I'm still VE tuning using STFT. I can still drive the car and record and drive on the highway but as soon as my clutch lockup happens the engine starts stumbling lightly and you can feel it shudder. If I accelerate too hard I can hear a backfire though the intake, I'm assuming at this point their is even much more of a load on the engine and its prolly running too lean as I have my PE disabled because of the VE tuning. Am I correct on this?

    Please let me know if I'm missing anything..
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    4,452
    log two separate recordings of in gear and out of gear idle.
    record the iac step counts, long and short term idle trims, and a channel for actual airflow.

    check iac counts first to make sure you dont need to adjust the throttle and tps.

    disable all adaptive idle controls in the tune. this lets the engine record uncorrected airflow.
    then record the actual airflow against coolant temp just like the base running airflow table is made up.
    whatever the average actual airflow reports back for each temperature cell is what you should have in your base running airflow. colder the startup the better. suggest wheel chocks for the in gear portion as you have to sit there with your foot on the brake.

    once your braf matches the recorded actual airflow fairly close then you can enable the adaptive idle again and record stit and ltit in both gear and park. this type of adjustment will be read in percent so if you copy and paste this one you have to use the paste special multiply by percent function.

    give that a shot.
    also include scanner files to go with your tunes. its the only way anyone can see what is going on without being there in person.
    i would raise your idle advance up to around 19* if you have a mild cam. if its the stock lq4 truck cam i ran 18* idle advance in mine.
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  3. #3
    Tuner in Training AnimeFunTV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    24
    I got everything setup on my scanner to record iac counts, ltst trims and mass air flow, but I do have the maf disabled for me to ve tune. If i enable it the engine goes to crap since the maf isn't calibrated.

    Also could you be a little more specific on the idle adaptive's as there are quite a few under idle>rpm & airflow

    I attached my scanner layout just to make sure I have everything i need to scan. new.Layout.xml

  4. #4
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Rogers, MN
    Posts
    13,564
    For future reference regarding your posted tune and such. A wideband would make tuning the VE far quicker and more accurate. I'd also use the STFT + LTFT method if you really want to use just the trims. Disabling PE isn't a good idea either.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  5. #5
    Tuner in Training AnimeFunTV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    24
    I just found out about using a wideband o2 with the pcm via egr or a/c pressure pins, it prolly wont be till next week when I can get a bosch wideband o2 and then wire it up. just an fyi I only have the base HP Tuner not the pro.

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    4,452
    1111.png
    under the idle > airflow > set all adaptive idle airflow values that have a unit of flow next to them to 0. this makes it to where adaptive idle works but physically doesnt move.

    there is a file that walks you through all of this... you can read it here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw...GtRbkZVQjNRdVU
    2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman

  7. #7
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    736
    Quote Originally Posted by cobaltssoverbooster View Post
    1111.png
    under the idle > airflow > set all adaptive idle airflow values that have a unit of flow next to them to 0. this makes it to where adaptive idle works but physically doesnt move.

    there is a file that walks you through all of this... you can read it here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw...GtRbkZVQjNRdVU
    So tune idle without the adaptive idle (spark also?).
    Get it within reason then turn adaptive back on and should pretty much be within reason also?

  8. #8
    Senior Tuner cobaltssoverbooster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    4,452
    You disable the adaptive to set the braf to actual airflow. Then you turn it on and use trims to fine tune it. The idle trims are very slow so doing it this way cuts your spent time in half. Set idle spark around 18* it should be stable enough to not cause problems. You can fine tune that while you work your idle trims in.

  9. #9
    Tuner in Training AnimeFunTV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    24
    Alright, so now i have an idea of what to do. I'm gonna let the car cool down overnight and start in the morning but I since I'm running the newer version of HPT, the old idle-airflow.cfg didn't open up correctly. So I had to re-do it, It looks like everything is working. I have attached both the new cfg, and log.

    I'm assuming is just as easy as doing the LTFT+STFT but instead of paste>multiply by half, I'm just straight up copying the readings and just pasting them into the correct Base Running Airflow tables. If this is the case then I'm not that far off since if you look at the log recordings and look at my current tune the braf table i the tune is nearly identical to what its logging (granted this was done while its was hot just to make sure i was recording the right data, UNLESS i missed something)

    FIS - Defalt Tune - SegSwaped - sys-spedo-trans-engdiag-eng-inj-idle-tune.hpt
    BRAF-TEST.hpl
    new-idle-tune.Layout.xml
    Last edited by AnimeFunTV; 04-15-2018 at 01:32 AM. Reason: spacing

  10. #10
    Tuner in Training AnimeFunTV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    24
    another thing, i'm assuming that it?s best to do the idle tune first before moving into tuning the VE?