dont worry i havent blown it up again. couple of questions

[ksauto]

so i went out for a drive and logged a bit. noticed a few things to ask about.

1. when i first fired it up(before i started the log) it seemed to be idling quite a bit rich according to the afr guage but it did seem to settle into 14.7 or so when it got up to temp. how do i get it to idle a bit less rich?

2. ive been chasing a little bit of a lean tip in issue. it seemed better after the last few changes i made, but i can still notice it if i keep an eye on the gauge when i touch the throttle again after letting off of it for a second(not the dfco)

3. the afr error chart, is that in percentage? should i be shooting for as close to 0.0 percent across the whole histogram?

4. my timing advance isnt reading the same when you look at the channel vs. the chart... at the highest kpa reading i got into(116.8) according to the chart it reached 14.7 degrees but the channel said 8.0 degrees. does the channel read commanded and the chart read actual?

4. i was letting off the throttle by the time it hit 116.8kpa but the timing had jumped im assuming because i was letting off the loud pedal. is it going to hurt anything knowing that the timing jumps up so rapidly when i let off the throttle and it still has so much air mass?



im sure im probably beginning to annoy people.. sorry for all of the questions. i just cannot afford to blow this thing up again. as always, any feedback is appreciated, negative and positive
log is attached. its a long log so to help out the area in question is at 27 minutes 12 seconds

[1364838952]

I'm looking forward to people answering your questions as I feel I can learn a lot from those same questions.

In regards to your rich condition on start up.. Is it a cold start up, or a hot start? I think that on cold start up, before it goes into closed loop, the fueling is affected by the OPEN LOOP EQ RATIO table which if you look, you will see that it fattens up the AFR before it goes into closed loop. You can try adjusting those cells where you see the issue and then keep logging and making changes until you get it right where you want it.

If it is going rich on hot starts, look at your VE table as I *believe* it will be using your VE table until it goes into C/L. Log C/L status and see if it starts out rich, and then leans out once it goes into C/L. Mine does the OPPOSITE. On hot starts it idles in the low 15's and the cam chop is AWESOME!!! But then within a couple seconds it fattens up to 14.7 or so.

I will be following your post. (hoping to learn more myself!)

[5FDP]

Correct, it uses the open loop EQ ratio when first started and even hot started for a small period of time before closed loop happens. You can copy over the stock open loop eq ratio and then have it slope downwards to 1.00 above 140-150 degrees. Or just take your current table and pull some fuel from -40 to 122 so it's not as rich on warm up.

Yes the AFR error is a percentage. Just make sure that when you are tuning the VE with your wideband that the fuel system status always shows OL "Not ready"/Acceleration so that you know it's in open loop. Check your settings for that and or request OL with the scanner and reset fuel trims prior to tuning. Shoot for a small error, within like 2-3% is doing alright, the closed loop fuel control can more than handle that without crazy looking fuel trims.

The channels page from what I notice can lag behind what the graph or charts show sometimes but one of them is normally always correct. The timing jump after letting off the throttle is normal, the cylinder airmass changes rapidly and so will the timing.

[ksauto]

well the tune is getting much better. the afrs are getting better the more i play. this thing is weird. the closer i get to the commanded afr while cruising, the leaner it idles. lol. ill get closer the more i mess with it. what should i be looking for as far as maximum cylinder air mass? does the air mass taper as rpm comes up or should it hit a certain sweet spot according to how much boost ill be running vs throttle position vs. rpm? hell i dunno. im always asking the hardest questions. and not the simplest ones. i finally figured out where the wastegate opens up today. im nearly positive ill have to deal with some boost creep, but for now ill just avoid doing wide open pulls until the new 60mm wastegate comes. on a side note, the turbo seal on the compressor side seems to not want to hold back oil. any ideas what size restrictor i should have in it? i have a 4an feed and 10an return that dumps directly down into my oil pan. its a journal bearing turbo so i would assume i wouldnt need a restrictor but it seems to not be the case. i have a .065 restrictor in it right now

[MMGT1]

Is your build using an electronic throttle body? DBW? Asking before I throw a couple of pointers out.

[ksauto]

its drive by cable, i always forget to mention that sorry

[MMGT1]

See, glad I asked...lol Are you keeping traction control for any reason on this vehicle? Even just for tuning, I would disable all of that stuff and re-enable it after so its not popping up somewhere you don't want it to.
I would also cut Spark Retard vs Torque reduction in half, pretty safe to do that. With the power your going to make your gonna cook the fluid and clutches allowing that much retard. If the trans is strong enough, you can remove all of it and tune the shifts with the trans tables.

Whats the specs on the cam your running?

And, for that lean tip in, under Transient, Fuel to Wall Impact Factor is where you want to go. Make note of the MAP at which point you see the lean tip happening. Go to that Fuel to Wall Table and adjust the MAP area where you see that lean condition(you'll be raising it slightly, raise in a very small % at a time. Once the lean tip is gone, blend that value out in both directions, above and below a couple of rows. Should clear that up pretty quick.

[kingtal0n]

on a side note, the turbo seal on the compressor side seems to not want to hold back oil. any ideas what size restrictor i should have in it? i have a 4an feed and 10an return that dumps directly down into my oil pan. its a journal bearing turbo so i would assume i wouldnt need a restrictor but it seems to not be the case. i have a .065 restrictor in it right now

Journal bearing... usually there is no restrictor. The turbo often has the correct orifice machined into the center section iirc. If you are getting oil seepage/leaking, the drain is insufficient.

1. turbo clocking, the drain angle cannot be large, iirc around 8* or 11* angle is max
2. 10AN most manufacturers say is too small. BW for example recommends 12AN only.
3. Gravity needs to drain straight down into the pan, no side-ways drain components, they will not work well. The fitting should extend a bit into the oil pan and drain somewhere that windage/slurry/whipping of the crankshaft will not interfere with the oily bubbly/frothy oil returning to the pan.

Believe me you are not the only one who was 'tricked' into using -10an. It seems sufficient but only when everything is perfect. I am switching mine to -12 and getting rid of the AN fittings, going to hose clamp a high quality hydraulic hose to as the drain. The braided steel in my experience deteriorates inside from the heat of the turbo and you cannot visually check it, then it clogs and you need a new turbo oil seal or a new turbo. Also the AN fitting itself rubs my turbine housing. They sell a bendable, mild steel tube instead that eliminates the AN fitting and allows a hose clamp hose for my BW turbo I plan to use.